New to boats, 1981 Glastron HPV 165 questions

Glastron Boater

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jan 22, 2017
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you can energize the solenoid by jumping the the red and yellow wire - this will spin the starter without giving any spark to the engine - you can do this to test the compression.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDoR64jP5l8&feature=youtu.be - check out 12:39 about the solenoid


Thanks SkiDad for the link and info.

I'll hopefully get to do this this weekend.

Is it OK to spin the motor over with the lower unit removed?

I just ordered the water pump and gasket Wednesday, it should be here next Wednesday. I hope to do some more electrical testing in the meantime if it's OK to spin it over without the lower unit.

If I should wait, then I'll probably refresh the trailer bearings.
 

SkiDad

Lieutenant Commander
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Jul 18, 2010
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as long as the key is off you can jump it and the engine won't start - that will be safe to do with or without the lower unit on.

Just as a note when you do start it for real at some point, you want water going to the lower unit - either you have to sumerge it in a large container or get the flusher ears and put them on the lower unit over those water pickup slots on each side. Make sure to center it well. if you don't get some water coming out of the exhaust in 25 seconds of starting it shut it off. Not safe to go over 2000 rpm when on the flusher.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/31l576Rd1KL.jpg
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
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May 7, 2008
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You can put a hose over the pickup tube when running with the lower unit off.
If you do decide to run in a bucket??
You need a DEEP one.
​The water needs to be over the cavitation plate by 3-4"
​These pumps aren't self priming and once they pick up water it will continue to pump if the water level goes down to the plate.
​The muffs you bought? Make sure they fit tight and the holes are covered good.
I use duct tape when the muffs don't seal.
But the lower needs to be dry for the tape to stick.
 

Glastron Boater

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Jan 22, 2017
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The muffs I have actually don't fit very well... They splash out a lot. So I went to a big bucket also, and I still wasn't getting any water, and that's the last time I ran the engine and that's why I took the water pump out. I did not run it long, so hopefully everything is good.

When I have the new parts installed I'll put duct tape on the edges. The water pick up on these is in a odd spot, so hopefully I can make my ear muffs work.

Hopefully I can have this boat in the water this month, water pump and gasket is already on the way from Iboats. Compression test I will do this weekend, but I think it will be ok, the engine runs good. But I will check it, it's good to know anyways.

Thanks.
 

jerryjerry05

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No Title

These are the kind I use.
​They can be found on the net.
​The place the pickup is(slits on the side) is sometime hard to seal but this type fits the best.
 

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Glastron Boater

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No Title

These are the ones I bought.

Good product, but because I didn't look at the outboard first and saw the way the water pickup is, they leak and may not be the best for my particular application.

They are just a bit too big and leak, but with duct tape that should help, I was able to seal them by pushing by hand.
 

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jerryjerry05

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The muffs you have don't work well on that type of lower.
But tape them in place.
 

Glastron Boater

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Jan 22, 2017
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Yes I will try tape, if that doesn't work, I'll have to get the circle ones and try to sell these.

Where is the thermostat on these motors? I still haven't backflush the cooling system because I haven't found the procedure to do it on this unit.
 

jerryjerry05

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Thermo is on top of the head above the sparkplugs.
​The screws can be a BIT%$ to get out.
Start spraying with WD or PB Blaster a few days before you try to take them apart.

I worked over 4 hrs to get one apart.
​You'll probably need a propane torch ,maybe an acetylene torch.
​If you use the hot wrench(acetylene) remember that the aluminum melts REALLLLLY quick and you can ruin the whole head.
 

Glastron Boater

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jan 22, 2017
Messages
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Thermo is on top of the head above the sparkplugs.
​The screws can be a BIT%$ to get out.
Start spraying with WD or PB Blaster a few days before you try to take them apart.

I worked over 4 hrs to get one apart.
​You'll probably need a propane torch ,maybe an acetylene torch.
​If you use the hot wrench(acetylene) remember that the aluminum melts REALLLLLY quick and you can ruin the whole head.

Is it that square part?

Oh wow, they can be that hard?
Is removing the thermostat necessary for a backflush or is there another way?


Will I need a new gasket, or is it a O-Ring that can be re-used?

I got everything in now to do the water pump and put it back in, I just want to back flush any impeller pieces out if there are any before I put it back together.

I also noticed grease on the tube going to the engine, what kind of assembly grease should be used, and where exactly should grease be applied?

Thanks
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
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Yup the square part is the housing.
More than likely the gasket will tear when taking apart.
​The only way I know of back flushing is through the thermo housing.
​IF??? your motors ever been in salt water and even fresh it can be a muther to take apart.

Heat and PATIENCE is the key.

​I use WD or PB-Blaster and/or a mix of Marvel Mystery Oil mixed with acetone.
​You heat then spray and then tap with a hammer.Tap the end of the screwdriver.
​Get the BIGGEST screwdriver that you can fit into the slot of the screw.
​Home depot has a 3/8 X 12" that seems to fill the slot.
​It also fits the vent and fill screws on the lower unit real good.

Heat, tap spray, repeat. Again and again.

Marine grease on all spots that need grease.

​The copper tube, be real careful when touching this.
It can come out and can be really hard to put back.
​It usually needs the powerhead to be removed to reinstall.

​Grease on the splines on top of the driveshaft.
It should have a rubber cover and a stainless keeper for the top of the shaft.
 

Glastron Boater

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jan 22, 2017
Messages
97
Got the Tstat out. 1bolt was a pain, the others came out easily.

It was full of corrosion or possibly sand?

I'm going to replace it, going to order one and gasket in the next couple of days.

System is flushed. I just need to pick up marine grease, then I can reinstall everything.

Thank you
 
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