Force 1984 85 HP, not firing cylinder 1

[jhromeli]

Hello all,
I have this problem in my outboard, It was running good during summer, then at the end of summer last time we use the boat sometimes it was working like missing power on one cylinder, I change Spark plugs, check all fuel lines, then I didn?t use the boat.
Yesterday I try to start the motor with no luck, I check spark and it was missing spark on cylinder 1, cylinder 2 and 3 good spark. My first thought that it was the coil, I swap coils and then I miss spark on cylinder 2 and spark on cylinder 1, so coils are good. My next thought lead me to the power Pack 1 for cylinder 1 and 2.
I read some posts they said you can swap packs, I need some help to do this, do I have just to change connectors and coils?
I check also resistance for trigger and stator, which give me the next numbers

Blue to Yellow 720 Ohms
Blue to Ground Open
Yellow to ground Open
Orange to White/green 52 Ohms
Red to white/green 52 Ohms
I ran a test without rectifier with no luck, also disconnecting the white cables from pack.
I think is the pack number 1 with the problem, but I want to makes sure wit you guys before to buy the part since it is expensive
Any other test?

 

[SkiDad]

please see this document - i had a pack go out a few years ago - i lost spark on 2 but you have a 3 cylinder so you can just loose spark on 1 and still be a pack - pay attention to the tests b/c the packs don't fire like you would think. Mark your leads, etc.

http://www.outboardignition.com/support/116-5301.pdf

 

[jerryjerry05]

The 84 came with the plug in connectors.
Unless you cut the ends off there is no way to swap the leads and make it fire on #1
They used the plugin's for a few years and replaced with a buss bar and screw down connectors. Making it easier to swap packs.

​Some times the trigger leads need to be redone.

 

[jhromeli]

Hello all, thanks for your responses, I have an update,

I took again the readings for stator with more patience.
Blue to Yellow 1 670 Ohms (which is lower than specs 680-900)
Blue to Yellow 2 570 Ohms (Much lower than Specs)
Blue to Ground 1 and 2 18,000 Ohms (this is not really open, but os correct?
Yellow to ground 1 and 2 18,000 Ohms

First Question blue to Ground 18,000 Ohms is equal to open?

Second question , with these readings I can determine that Stator is the defective part?

Third Question , when the procedure say open the Kill wire at Pack, means disconnect white cable at connectors bar? (It is what I did, I disconnect both white cables)

Third Question I did a test with the spare output for coil in pack number 2 , and I connected to coil 1 and did spark, so I have sparks in all three cylinders, but my question if this is correct?, I don?t think so because it is firing in different order, My assumption is correct ?


Thanks for all your support

Kind regards

and Happy new boating year from Mexico.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The pack is divided into 2 parts.
​You can rewire the second part to fire.
Pics of your system?

 

[jhromeli]

Hello All, Thanks for your comments, I order a complete ignition system on ebay, coils and packs , I am waiting for the parts, in the mean time I took readings again with all disconnected , and the readings in the trigger and stator are Ok, so I am very confident that the problem is on the Pack 1 , see picture atached

 

[jhromeli]

Dear Amigos...

I need your help, pieces arrived yesterday , so I work to change Power Pack #1 which I thought is the problem, what happened is that still the same failure, no spark in cylinder 1, Again I switch coils to check if coil is bad but what happen is now cylinder #2 loss spark and 1 get spark.

So far, coils are good, I don?t think the power pack that I bought has the same problem,

please tell me your thoughts and next steps.

Do you think will be possible failure in rectifier, Power pack 2, or in the trigger?

Please some advice in next stpes to test.

Thanks for your comments

Kind regards

Jhromeli

 

[Nordin]

Please am I missing something!

You say you switch coils. Do you switch #1 with #2 or #3 or switching with a spare?
IF you switch #1 with #2 and loss spark on #2 then the issue moves from #1 to #2, it seams the coil is bad.

Please explain in more details.

 

[pnwboat]

It's not uncommon for a bad CD Module to cause a good CD module to not produce spark at one of the plugs. Try replacing #2 CD Module.

 

[jerryjerry05]

If you changed the coils and the spark changed holes??
Then it sounds like the coils bad.

​Try swapping the #3 coil and see if that makes a difference??
​#3 is controlled by the #2 pack and if the you loose spark on #3 then you know for sure it's the coil.

 

[jhromeli]

Hello All,
Thanks for your support I finally found the problem, when I was taking readings I change the connectors from positions Pack 1 and Pack 2, so I review all wiring and found this mistake, put it as it should be and the engine start working right away.
I think Power Pack 1 was damage.
Also I found another problem, sometimes I had like a lack of power at engine, then stop reverse and then forward and sometimes this fix the problem, I think Found the failure mode, when I put at WOT the lever, the gas tube from pump to carburetor it is pressed by the lever for the safety switch , not delivering the right amount of fuel to carburetor affecting basically , Cylinder 1 , I change the route of the hose and problem solved.
Lets see next week at lake how it Works

 

[jerryjerry05]

Sometimes the simple things kick our butt!!
Keep us posted.