Help needed with test reading 92' Force 150 Stator

[mustacheyouaquestion]

Quick summary: This motor is new to me. The P.O. said it needed a stator. It's currently getting no spark to all cylinders
SN# OE010037.
Stator has 2 yellow wires (only) feeding into voltage regulator. (current style)
This version has a single switch box.

It's been very difficult finding the right chart for testing. I have a copy of the service manual and do see a chart on 5-45 to 5-46. It says stator resistance is .17 - .19
My test is coming up with resistance between the 2 yellow wires is average .9 which is out of spec.
I also tested the trigger and its within spec
I don't currently have a DVA adapter but is this enough info to confirm a bad stator?
Just to add: The voltage regular is the current style that has the opaque cap. It appears to have a lot of discoloration where the yellow stator feeds into it. I plan on ordering a new one and have seen wild price variations. From $40 all the way to $200

 

[SkiDad]

See. http://www.outboardignition.com/support/176-4796K1.pdf

 

[mustacheyouaquestion]

Between yellow wires I read .9
There is no reading from yellow to ground from either
Blue to Black reading was 1.8 when set on the 200 ohm mark on my meter so appears to be out of spec. I assume they are referring to the blue and black on the switch box

Just to clarify: My stator only has (2) yellow wires

 

[mustacheyouaquestion]

No Title

 

[jerryjerry05]

If you have the stator with 2 yellow leads??
Outboard igniton doesn't have test procedures for that item
​Set ohms meter at X1
​ hook yellow leads to meter.
should be .17-.19

Meter Black lead to G on stator.
​Pos. to yellow if needle goes to zero ohms replace stator.
​If it does nothing on both yellow leads the stator is ok. Like you already did!!!!!!!!

​I'd bet the box is the problem. E-bay is usually cheaper but not on your part.
​OBI is cheapest at $317 OUCH!!

​Outboard ignition does have test procedures for the box.

 

[pnwboat]

On your particular motor (1992 150HP), the stator is not used to supply voltage for the ignition system. That particular motor uses the battery to supply voltage to the ignition system. The only thing that the stator does is charge the battery. That's why you only have two yellow leads that go to the voltage Regulator/Rectifier. If the battery is bad, or anything the the battery charging circuit, and the battery goes dead, then you will not get spark.

That ignition system uses a "Battery Converter" box to convert the 12 volts D.C. from the battery and step it up and convert it to AC voltage for the Switch Box to operate and fire the coils.

The Battery Converter is the unit just below and to the right of the Regulator/Rectifier that has the words BLUE, BLACK, VIO/WHITE, RED on it. The Switch Box is the unit just above and to the right of the Battery Converter Box with the letters CDI on it. CDI is an aftermarket supplier of marine ignition parts.

You need to verify that you are getting 12 volts to the converter box and that the Converter box is putting out the voltage to the Switch Box. If you're not getting voltage to the Switch Box, you will not get any spark.

The Battery Converter box is no longer made. Only ones available are used units on the auction sites. If you have a bad Battery Converter, then CDI does make a replacement stator that has an additional winding that eliminates the Battery Converter. The extra stator winding connects directly to the Switch Box to supply ignition voltage like most of the other outboard ignition systems.

 

[mustacheyouaquestion]

This all is starting to make more sense now. It does have a brand new battery and reading 12.65 volts feeding into the battery converter. To check voltage to the switch box...Do I meter while cranking?

 

[pnwboat]

Yes check it while cranking. To check it correctly, you are supposed to use a DVA. You can kind of get an idea by setting your meter on AC volts to read at least 300 VAC and see if you get anything going to the Switch Box. Not sure about which lead to check on the Battery Converter, but I know it's not the RED (12VDC) or the BLACK (Ground). Either the BLUE or VIO/WHITE.

Here is some info on the stator that I mentioned earlier. Click on the PDF installation instructions to get detailed info on the link below.

http://www.cdielectronics.com/produc...a7-332-4796a8/

 

[mustacheyouaquestion]

I'm back after a winter break..I have a new meter with DVA adapter now.I get nothing at all when I meter the ground and violet when cranking. Just to make sure, I do this while still connected to the converter right?

 

[pnwboat]

Yes, everything must be connected up normally when testing. Try checking for voltage on the Blue wire too. Also make sure you're getting 12 volts DC on the Red wire on the Converter box too.

 

[mustacheyouaquestion]

I'm going to assume at this point my converter box is the culprit. I did check the blue wire just in case. I did have a little over 12 volts going into the converter box so I now I'm good there. I think I'm going to replace with the Stator conversion as it won't be much more trying to find a 25 year old used conveter box. I will do my best to post updates.

 

[pnwboat]

The converter box seems to be a high failure item. Maybe that's why they are no longer made. Regardless, at least you can eliminate it with the newer style replacement stator.

 

[mustacheyouaquestion]

Quick update...I replaced it with the stator converter and now have spark.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Glad it's a workin!!

 

[mustacheyouaquestion]

Yes sir...It fired right up