70 HP Force Rebuild

[jerryjerry05]

The compression gauge????
​The more you spend ?? Usually a cheap gauge is just that.
​I spent 160$ back in 1988 for mine from MAC tools.
​It's a big set that does MANY types of motors.

The important thing is doing the test right and how close the readings are to each other.
​Pull all the plugs and like Nordin said at least 5-7 revs or until the needle stops going up.

​The threads on the screws: at any marine sales place, they sell oil fill pumps.
​The fitting they include in the kit usually has 2 different size nipples.
​One for ASE and one for metric(jap) motors.

Use the ase when you build your tester.

 

[CJ River Rider]

Good luck with your re-build. Maybe I'll see you on the water this spring or summer. I have a 70 HP Force on 16' Blue Water bowrider. When I'm down that way, I launch out of Mill Creek on the Toms River.

 

[brianq]

Good luck with your re-build. Maybe I'll see you on the water this spring or summer. I have a 70 HP Force on 16' Blue Water bowrider. When I'm down that way, I launch out of Mill Creek on the Toms River.

Thanks I hope to be back on the water! F Cove, Waters Edge and Tices are where I can be found!

 

[brianq]

The compression gauge????
​The more you spend ?? Usually a cheap gauge is just that.
​I spent 160$ back in 1988 for mine from MAC tools.
​It's a big set that does MANY types of motors.

The important thing is doing the test right and how close the readings are to each other.
​Pull all the plugs and like Nordin said at least 5-7 revs or until the needle stops going up.

​The threads on the screws: at any marine sales place, they sell oil fill pumps.
​The fitting they include in the kit usually has 2 different size nipples.
​One for ASE and one for metric(jap) motors.

Use the ase when you build your tester.

Hey Jerry hope you are enjoying your "winter" as if you have much of one down there. I havent gotten out to work on the motor much but I reran the compression test as advised and I got a constant 110 psi on all cylinders . Some Forces (running) locally have popped up on craigslist. An 85 asking 450 running. I am concerned about the compression being low, completing the build and missing spring stripers. What are your thoughts? Am i hitting the panic button early?

I hope to work on the timing tomorrow. A high of 40 and 25mph winds wont be fun but I want to get moving.

 

[jerryjerry05]

IF???? all the cyl. read 110 then it could be the gauge???

​The 85 should / might have the same connectors on the motor??
Pics of the connectors.
​The 92 was the changing point from Force to Mercury style.
​If they are the "newer" style you'd have to change the shifter.

Be careful and get a Seatow Or Boat US towing membership.
Best thing I ever bought for my boat!!

 

[brianq]

Any tips on removing the upper side shock mounts? My manual says to tighten them to the motor then place it down with them coming through the mounting part. I cant seem to remove the bolts to get them off the case.

 

[brianq]

No Title

Any tips on removing the upper side shock mounts? My manual says to tighten them to the motor then place it down with them coming through the mounting part. I cant seem to remove the bolts to get them off the case.

Here is the upper shock mount I am trying to remove without damaging.

 

[brianq]

Here is the upper shock mount I am trying to remove without damaging.

I ended up drilling out the nuts and removing the shock mounts. Ordered new ones on ebay.

Funny story: Went to my local shop they had one, wanted $100. They were blown away when I told them they are $25 on ebay. " We paid $56 for them how could they sell them so cheap" ..... My response: Maybe since 1992 they have cut their loses?

Totally over their heads. Im sure the next person to come in will be looking for one shock mount for a 1992 Force 70 HP LOL

 

[brianq]

I got the power head mounted and wired. When I turn the key I hear a loud click but the starter doesnt move. I took a screw driver and tried to jump the solenoid the starter engaged the flywheel just for a second. I tried to jump again and nothing. After a few minutes it would do it again. I brought the battery in and put it on the trickle charger figuring it was dead. After an hour the charger says its charged. Any idea what it could be?

 

[jerryjerry05]

Test light.
​Someone at the key.
​Test light grounded and on the yellow lead on the solenoid.
Turn the key and see if it lights up the test light. Yes? do the next text.
Then as the key's turned touch both posts of the solenoid.
​Both light up?? then the solenoids good.
Only one lights up? then the solenoids bad.

​Check all connections on the buss bar.

WD-40 IN the key switch doesn't hurt a thing.

If you can't find a solenoid?? I have one I'll send you.Just pay shipping.

 

[brianq]

Test light.
​Someone at the key.
​Test light grounded and on the yellow lead on the solenoid.
Turn the key and see if it lights up the test light. Yes? do the next text.
Then as the key's turned touch both posts of the solenoid.
​Both light up?? then the solenoids good.
Only one lights up? then the solenoids bad.

​Check all connections on the buss bar.

WD-40 IN the key switch doesn't hurt a thing.

If you can't find a solenoid?? I have one I'll send you.Just pay shipping.

Ok so first I put in a brand new solenoid, I had one. (Thanks for offering me one Jerry) I got a test light and grounded it to the battery lead. The starter side would light up and turn off when I turned the key? It also did not work on the battery lead? Im not sure what a test light does, I thought it lights up when a circuit is complete? I tested on my truck and that doesnt seem to be true. I then put it on the battery post on the solinoid then touched the starter post and it tried to start. The starter connection started to spark so I stopped. When I turn the key the yellow red wire on the bow side of the solenoid sparks. I think I may have things wired backward? I have attached a video and a few pictures. I think I have it wired how it was?

I attached a picture from the book that looks like I have it wired correctly.

Thanks!

https://youtu.be/FARbYxyPzIU

 

[jerryjerry05]

I see a missing screw, that screw needs to ground the solenoid.
The test light should light up when the circuit is completed.
If it goes out then circuit might go to ground?
Hook up the ground and see if that makes a difference.
​If I can remember I'll try to get a pic of one wired correctly.

 

[Jiggz]

To use a test light to check if the ckt is complete or not, do the following:
First, disconnect the large red cable from the starter. Make sure the disconnected large red cable is not touching anything especially ground.
Attached the black alligator clip to ground or negative terminal of the battery.
Touch the test light probe to the big red terminal (source side) of the solenoid connected to the positive terminal of the battery, LIGHT SHOULD COME ON
Now move the probe to the small red wire of the solenoid, LIGHT SHOULD COME ON
Next test the ignition switch for proper connection by moving the test light probe to the small yellow wire on the solenoid, LIGHT SHOULD NOT COME ON OR BE OFF
Keeping the probe on the small yellow wire, have someone turn the key on the ignition switch to start position, LIGHT SHOULD COME ONE AND YOU SHOULD HEAR THE SOLENOID CLICK. Now this could be misleading for the clicking sound is not exactly the kind you want. If test light does not come on, the ignition switch is mis-wired. Turn key off. If you heard the click, and it should be a distinctive clicking sound go to the next step.

Next, touch the probe to the large red cable terminal (load side) going to the starter, LIGHT SHOULD STAY OFF
Keeping the probe to the large cable terminal going to the starter, turn key on. YOU SHOULD HEAR CLICK FROM THE SOLENOID AND LIGHT SHOULD COME ON. If this is correct, reconnect the starter cable and it should work.

If LIGHT DOES NOT COME ON, IT MEANS THE SMALL YELLOW WIRE AND THE SMALL BLACK WIRE ON THE SOLENOID ARE BACKWARDS. And the clicking sound you are hearing is not the correct clicking sound you wanted to hear. Instead, what you are hearing is the backwards movement of the armature against the spring due to reverse polarity in the control coil of the solenoid.

 

[brianq]

To use a test light to check if the ckt is complete or not, do the following:
First, disconnect the large red cable from the starter. Make sure the disconnected large red cable is not touching anything especially ground.
Attached the black alligator clip to ground or negative terminal of the battery.
Touch the test light probe to the big red terminal (source side) of the solenoid connected to the positive terminal of the battery, LIGHT SHOULD COME ON
Now move the probe to the small red wire of the solenoid, LIGHT SHOULD COME ON
Next test the ignition switch for proper connection by moving the test light probe to the small yellow wire on the solenoid, LIGHT SHOULD NOT COME ON OR BE OFF
Keeping the probe on the small yellow wire, have someone turn the key on the ignition switch to start position, LIGHT SHOULD COME ONE AND YOU SHOULD HEAR THE SOLENOID CLICK. Now this could be misleading for the clicking sound is not exactly the kind you want. If test light does not come on, the ignition switch is mis-wired. Turn key off. If you heard the click, and it should be a distinctive clicking sound go to the next step.

Next, touch the probe to the large red cable terminal (load side) going to the starter, LIGHT SHOULD STAY OFF
Keeping the probe to the large cable terminal going to the starter, turn key on. YOU SHOULD HEAR CLICK FROM THE SOLENOID AND LIGHT SHOULD COME ON. If this is correct, reconnect the starter cable and it should work.

If LIGHT DOES NOT COME ON, IT MEANS THE SMALL YELLOW WIRE AND THE SMALL BLACK WIRE ON THE SOLENOID ARE BACKWARDS. And the clicking sound you are hearing is not the correct clicking sound you wanted to hear. Instead, what you are hearing is the backwards movement of the armature against the spring due to reverse polarity in the control coil of the solenoid.

Thanks so much for this detailed explanation!

 

[brianq]

No Title

Finally back to working on the boat. Tightened all of the wires to the starter, battery and relay and it started cranking. Reinstalled the lower unit and grounded all off the plug wires to start timing the motor problem is when I turn it over the prop spins. When in neutral I cant spin the prop by hand. I have noticed the shift linkage is bent.(photo attached) before demo and after where you can see its bent. Is this somthing I can bend back? I havent seen a replacement on ebay. I would like to see this motor run before I purchase anymore parts. Anyway I can change the gear on the lower unit for testing?

 

[jerryjerry05]

Supposed to be bent.
​Motor off.
​Unhook the shift cable.
Then shift by hand and turn prop.
​Pull up as you turn prop, push down as you turn prop.
Try to find N
​Then re-hook the cable after adjusting the connector.

 

[brianq]

Supposed to be bent.
​Motor off.
​Unhook the shift cable.
Then shift by hand and turn prop.
​Pull up as you turn prop, push down as you turn prop.
Try to find N
​Then re-hook the cable after adjusting the connector.

Ok I did this and found it to be in the middle. The only issue is its a pretty big adjustment of the shift linkage. I didn't mess with that so it seems odd I would need to adjust that much? I have included a picture which shows it in neutral and how much will need to be adjusted.

I put it in neutral last night then connected it and moved shifter it didnt go back to neutral so some adjustment is deff needed.

I posted another picture of the bent part. Looks like damage but you would know better.

Lastly my fuel line is MIA so I made a new one 5/16ths since thats what the intake on the motor was. Is this correct?

 

[brianq]

Couldnt edit my last post so please disregard.


The latest:

Fixed the shift linkage, put a screw driver behind it to straighten it out. Adjusted the shift part on the power head and it drops into neutral now. Grounded the plug wires, wired neutral switch on motor and marked the TDC and 32 degress on the fly wheel and attached the timing light. Turned key at full throttle and the light wasnt going off. It blinked once and that was it. Attached spark tester in spark wire and grounded to case and turned key... nothing... My volt meter was dead so I picked up a new one to test tomorrow.

Any ideas whats going on?

I have the repair manual so tomorrow I will follow its testing steps with the multimeter to find the problem

Lastly my fuel line is MIA so I made a new one 5/16ths since thats what the intake on the motor was. Is this correct?

 

[brianq]

Update!

I had the trigger tested it came in at 1300 ohms , charging coil in the stator came in ok but the high voltage stator spark coil was no good. I purchased a new stator here on and I am working on installing it.

The stator runs through what I believe is a conversion box with a green wire with a white stripe and a white wire with a thin green stripe. The box is grounded to the motor and a blue wire comes out of it and is attached to the switch box.

The new stator has 2 ground wires (blue white and red white). It has a blue wire and a red wire which the instructions say to connect.


I THINK I dont need to conversion box? Im thinking blue wire directly to the stator blue, ground the redwhite and bluewhite to the motor. The red? I dont know where that goes?

 

[pnwboat]

If you look closely at the terminals on the Switch Box, I believe that they might be labeled with the wire color that should be attached to them.

I can't say for sure if you should eliminate the adapter or not. None of my wiring diagrams show it. Was the bad stator a factory one? Was it Red?