1992 120 hp force stator ohms

[DTX Mike]

my engine has never ran up to rpm since replacing a 9 amp bad open winding stator with a 16 amp stator (used). It has been running worse and worse until now when it will no longer start at all. the engine is a 1208X92c s/n 24809. the replacement stator is a 398-9710-31. the red-red/white coil is fine at 97 ohms but the blue-blue/white is 6100 (spec is 3500+/-. would this high resistance be causing my problem? The stator for this engine with bolt in magnets spec is 7k ohmns so i'm thinking that the stator may not be the issue. the trigger is right in spec for ohms (880) but I question if my switchbox is the problem. I have had no power, just barely brought the boat up on plane with only me in the boat. It would run for a short while then it would start backing off the boat would drop off of plane and I would get right back to the dock in fear of it dying completely. It would die when brought down to an idle. Just cleaned up both carbs (two days soaking in laquer thinner). tried new gas, no change. I have spark on all four plugs. new plugs. Compression is a bit low at 145 psi but that is not bad. any thoughts? this boat has been in the family from when it was new. the engine has never given any problem at all. The stator or switch box? or something else? Help very much appreciated.

 

[DTX Mike]

I forgot to add that right when i put the boat in the water after replacing the stator this spring i idled out into the lake from the launch ramp (5 minute idle) but when I went to open up the throttle boat only went to 15 mph plowing over to our dock. When i got to the dock i opened it up and found that i had sprung a leak in the water side of the exhaust manifold and the whole engine was drenched in water. Who knows what damage that may have done to the ignition parts?

 

[pnwboat]

The low speed winding Blue to Blue/White should be around 3600 OHMs. Your stator is bad. That's why it won't start.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The stator readings, the stator can read good and still be bad.
You need to do a voltage test.
If your system needs a 9amp why would you put a 16 on it?
outboardignitiondotcom has test procedures for your motor.


The 92 could have 4 different stators and 2 different ignitions??.
You have model and serial #'s?

 

[DTX Mike]

the engine is a 1208X92c s/n 24809. The stator that I removed was a 398-8778A17 (though I believe it is suppose to have had a 27 not the 17). The 16 amp model was available used on ebay and I cross referenced it on boats.net as a compatible model both being used on the Mercury 115 hp "sister" engine. "115 (4 CYL.) Mercury Outboard 9559771 THRU 9793576 Flywheel And Starter Motor Diagram and Parts" I don't think I'll try playing with used "equals" on ebay anymore. I'll test the DVA. I believe the DVA is 180+ for the blues and 20+ for the reds.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[pnwboat]

The CDI Electronics specifically states that their aftermarket replacement low/high speed winding stator for the 1992 Force outboard cannot be used for motors with the bolt in magnets. From that, I would assume the opposite is also applicable...... that Mercury stators for motors with bolt in magnets cannot be used on the Force motors? So maybe the stator you have is not actually bad, but simply the wrong one?

There looks to be a difference in the low speed winding resistance between the one specified for the Force motor, and the one for the Mercury motor. That would raise a red flag in my mind.

The voltage output of the stator is dependent on several factors in the relationship between the magnets and the stator coils. If you change any of those factors, it will affect voltage output. The fact that the low speed stator windings on your stator read almost double what they normally should be for your motor tells me that the the low speed coils in your stator are different than the ones specified for your motor.

 

[Chadomosis]

Keep your eyes peeled for those parts at boat salvage yards. I replaced all of the CDI component in my 50HP for a fraction of what new stuff costs and it's ran great ever sense.

 

[DTX Mike]

I thought that I had peak reading AC on my older analog meter but I don't so I will be purchasing a DVA adapter to check out the voltage readings. This is probably a dumb question but do I check the voltage with the stator connected to the switch box or do I disconnect the leads and check the stator or does it matter?

 

[jerryjerry05]

I believe the tests are done unhooked.
outboardignitiondotcom has the procedures for the tests.

 

[DTX Mike]

Well this weekend I read the DVA on the stator blues coil both connected and disconnected, both were only 20 DVA not the listed 180 DVA (used both of my multimeters with my new DVA adapter to confirm). I measured the reds coil also at 20 DVA. Engine would not start. I guess it is time to find a stator that the blues coil is reading 3500 ohms not the 6100 of the one that I have on the engine now? I also checked the four ignition coils to ground, all four right at 0.3 ohms. Before I buy another Stator I think I'll take the plugs out one at a time and tie a grounded wire to the threads and see just how much spark if any is actually there. These are rim fire plugs.

Thanks

 

[pnwboat]

Sorry to hear about your stator readings, but I believe that you're on the right path.

 

[jerryjerry05]

No Title

Buy a spark tester.

 

[DTX Mike]

Yes I probably should get out of the stone age and spend the ten bucks or so on a spark tester. Gosh I hate ignition systems (did I say that out loud?).

Thanks all.

 

[jerryjerry05]

When I was a rookie..(just last week)
I hated the idea of diagnosing anything electrical.
Then my own problems showed up.
I found it's nothing and easy to fix if you have the right tools and the right books.

 

[DTX Mike]

Measured ohms of ignition coils' output side. #1 962, #2 966, #3 948, #4 955. All in spec. I bought an inline spark tester. It was dark and I got no glow at all on any of the cylinders then when finishing cylinder #4 the engine fired over and a slight glow came on #4. It was cool out about 60 degrees. This is making sense now. Early morning or when it was cool/cold is the only times that this engine has started. It runs worse as it warms up. I guess I need to save up my $$$ and get a decent stator. I have asked the guys on ebay selling used stators what the ohms are on their stators and none of them know what I am talking about. Thanks everyone, it may be a while before I buy the stator. The boating season is about over up here in New England anyway. Too cold to water ski in a couple weeks.

 

[jerryjerry05]

"save my money to buy a decent motor"
​You have a decent motor you just need to work out the bugs!
You have a good ground when using the spark tester?
Pics of the tester?

 

[DTX Mike]

"decent stator" is what I said. This is a good engine. Rebuilt the short block with 4 over piston back in 2004. Has never left me stranded. I have a CDI 174-8778K1 stator ordered and coming. The spark tester is an inline tester not the clip on that you showed.