Testing Recirculation system

SkiDad

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 18, 2010
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Hi Guys, 1985 Force 125 - have been wondering if the my dog bones are clogged up so I put some clear fuel line on it to test. what do you think, looks like it is working good to me and the fuel is very clean.

Everything time I take something apart on this engine it looks like brand new - I'm guessing it's b/c I run it so often.

So i did this test vs removing and cleaning the screens and reeds. Thoughts ?

https://youtu.be/x3sjDTYZMQw
 

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2007
Messages
4,251
It looks like something is happening. As long as the flow is towards the By-Pass covers, away from the dog bones you should be good (It's kind of hard to tell from the video).
 

SkiDad

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Jul 18, 2010
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yes, fuel is moving from bottom to top -seems to be a good amount. When I shut it off there is some fuel that remains in the hoses for a while.

the one thing i noticed was the top most connector was a little loose but I can't spin it another turn so i left it. Do you think I thought put some thread sealer on there ?

I'm going to put marine grade line back on. This is just my $3.29 experiment.
 
Last edited:

Jiggz

Captain
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Oct 23, 2009
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3,817
I'm just wondering what exactly is it you are trying to troubleshoot? Is it the same hard starting when engine is hot or warmed up? If such is the case, you might want to focus also on the electrical components. Before doing so make sure you have fully investigated the fuel system, i.e. with a clear fuel filter that is not emptying and that fuel actually enters the cylinders (paper test).

When you experience the hard starting problem, that is the perfect time to do all the troubleshootings, i.e. fuel, carburetion and of course sparks. Most hard starting on hot or warmed up engine is mainly due to electrical components rather than mechanical. Although very seldom and uniquely enough it can also me mechanical.
 

SkiDad

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Jul 18, 2010
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warm starts are hit and miss unless I use fast idle. Usually 2-3 tries now without fast idle. When it start warm the idle rpm is lower than it should be - eventually will creep up.

i've tried

BUHX plugs
BUHW plugs
Link and Sync
Cleaned carbs
Checked floats
Spark on all 4
idle mixture at 7/8 15/16 and 1 turn out - currently 1 turn
timing set correctly
tried with and without cowl (in driveway)

engine runs great except for this quirk - I've been living with it but for some reason it's getting worse this year.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
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May 7, 2008
Messages
17,926
I'd pull the bones and get rid of the screens.
​Sometimes mine starts right back up?
Sometimes I have to use the fast idle?
Sometimes I have to use the choke.
 

SkiDad

Lieutenant Commander
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Jul 18, 2010
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Jerry. Why would I remove the screens if I have fuel flowing ? Not following :)
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
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May 7, 2008
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17,926
The screens are there to catch small particles and can clog up the system, then you can loose a cylinder???
​The screens are NLA and can be substituted with a small filter if you really want something in there.
 

Jiggz

Captain
Joined
Oct 23, 2009
Messages
3,817
I had the same problems before (I got the 89-125HP) and took about three steps to fix it. First like you I switched to BUHW which worked very well. Second the idle screw (bottom of timing tower) is now set to around 1400 RPM on muffs with idle in gear sitting around 750~800 RPM. And the idle mixture screw set at 1 turn out.

Since it takes a fast idle setting to get it started in warmed up condition, experiment on increasing the idle screw setting (idle neutral on muffs) to around 1300~1500 RPM. Just make sure when you engage the clutch you make it really snappy to avoid grinding. I even made a line mark on my control lever for reference where to stop the control lever when engaging it quickly without going too fast initially.
 

fmt2bx

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 27, 2015
Messages
217
Hey SkiDad, feeling your pain. I was there a year ago!!! Your recirc fuel system looks good (mine does the same thing).
Did you check your thermostat? Mine was shot and of course it is the last thing I checked. I had trouble at idle all the time. Wouldn't start when hot, when cold would be ok then RPM would decrease and motor would quit when engaging gear.
Not saying that it is what's wrong with yours but if you haven't checked T stat, I'd do that just to confirm.

Cheers.
F
 

SkiDad

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 18, 2010
Messages
1,518
so I'm looking for some 3/16 marine fuel line that is USCG approved. It's hard to find. Old line had no markings and i think it was original to boat. Do i need USCG line for the re-circulation system or will the line I picked up from O'Reilys work. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/GATR/27001.oap?ck=Search_27001_-1_2170&keyword=27001

if not do you know of a source I can buy a few feet and not a 50' roll.

Last night i noticed one of these clear fuel lines popped off so I want to put the right stuff on. And I'm gonna use hose clamps this time.

thanks !
 
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