1988 force 125 trim wiring problem

Tinman78

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Dec 6, 2015
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I have a 1988 glastron z17 with a 125 force on it. Trim pump was rusted solid when I got it. Ordered a new pump and the solenoids click but nothing from the motor. Pump works fine in both directions when hooked directly to the battery with alligator clips. Anyone have a wiring diagram so I can check mine? I think the previous owner moved wires around in the plug. I can get power to one wire but not ground to the other to make it spin. And most of the time it just has ground to both wires no matter what position the trim button is pushed in.
 

Tinman78

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Found this online and maybe it will help someone else. Mine is working great now. Now to finally take it out on the lake and see if it will get over 4000 rpms
 

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Jiggz

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Thanks fro sharing. It's almost accurate except for the "Up" and "Down" wire designation. OEM wiring uses the green wire for down while the blue wire is for up. The best way to remember is to think of green lawn or turf for down and blue skies for up.
 

Tinman78

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Dec 6, 2015
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So I have another post going here about not being able to get over 4000 rpms and 30 mph. Thought it was not being able to trim it out but I just got back from the lake and I only got to 4200 trimmed out and 31 mph... any ideas on that? I've gone through everything. Plugs, compression, lower unit, 3 different props, cleaned and link and synced the carbs, adjusted throttle linkage for WOT, idk where to go now.
 

Jiggz

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Try decarboning the engine first. Just be very careful not to overdo it as it can actually damage the rings and cylinders. What type of spark plugs are you using, brand and model? If it's not NGK, I recommend you switch to NGK's BUHW.

Does the engine has any misfire at WOT? Even infrequent misfire can hold back WOT speed. Infrequent or irregular misfire at WOT is usually an indication of fuel starvation at WOT settings. Meaning the fuel pump may not be delivering the proper amount of fuel at WOT speed. If you have the clear fuel filter installed between the fuel pump and the carbs inlet, this will easily tell you if the engine is starving of fuel at WOT speed as the clear fuel filter will be empty or less than 1/4 full.

Another cause of irregular misfire at WOT is timing or it could just be a trigger wire getting pinch at certain position of the trigger coil.

Does the boat track a straight line except for the counter torque from the prop which should have been compensated by the exhaust snout? In short, do you have to steadily compensate with the steering wheel for a straight tracking? if so, then adjust the exhaust snout to reduce drag.

There are a lot of factors that can affect WOT speed and most especially with load. I understand you were by yourself when you did the test. Could it be the boat is already waterlogged? You can tell by after getting it off the water and on the trailer, remove the drain plug and see if large amount of water comes out. If it does and continues to drip slowly for a long time (minutes), there is a good possibility it it waterlogged.
 

Tinman78

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After 4-5 hours on the water I barely get a dribble out when pulling the plug if anything. Boat tracks straight, and after cleaning and adjusting the carbs it has no skips or studders from idle to WOT. It runs and sounds great but just not taching like it should. It has NGK BUHX plugs in it. That's what was in there when I bought it last week. I'm not 100% clear on this decarbon procedures I have read. I bought a can of deep creep, and a can of the gas additive. How much is too much? Everyone says spray into carbs then spray into cylinders and let it sit. But no one says how much in either?
 

Jiggz

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I'm assuming you are already using 50:1 fuel oil mix. As for decarboning, spray straight into each cylinder through the plug hole. I say about two~ three spray full in each hole and then let it seat overnight. The next day, remove the carbs' air covers. Connect the cooling water, start and then warm up the motor for about 3~4 minutes. Thereafter, using the tie bar on the carbs, rev the motor quickly up to about 2K~2.5K and then let go. This is like racing the motor but you want to make sure how far you have to move the tie bar so as not to go too high on the rpm.

Next with seafoam in a spray bottle, race the motor and spray into each carb. Apply only one spray in each carb each time while rev'ing the motor. You should see soots coming out of the exhaust. Continue to do this as long as the soot is heavy. If it is light to start with after three times on each carb and it doesn't get heavy then the motor is not heavily carboned up and you could stop the decarboning process.

If the soot is heavy continue to decarb until it lightens up. DO NOT WAIT FOR THE SOOTS TO CLEAR FOR IT WILL NOT. Otherwise you can cause damage to the rings and cylinders as the seafoam reduces the lubrication between the rings and cylinders. Try to switch the spray in between carbs to make sure proper lubrication of the rings and cylinders. Or try to do it with intermittently between each carb.

If the above doesn't improve engine performance, try running the engine with the top cover off. Did it improve performance? What about the clear fuel filter did it stayed at least half full?
 

Tinman78

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Actually I'm a little heavier than 50:1. Somewhere closer to 45:1 probably or in between the two. I usually add just a little more oil then 50:1 calls for. I ran it with the cover off yesterday and didn't make a difference. And the clear filter is 3/4 full or better all the time. Oh and I forgot to mention earlier I changed the fuel line between the tank and motor. Old bulb was sucking air and I eliminated the quick disconnect so I installed a new line and bulb.
 

Jiggz

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The fact the clear filter stayed 3/4 full or better the whole time indicates good fuel delivery. Will it be possible for you to make a short video of the engine on muffs idling and also one at the lake at different speed. I mean like taking off from idle to WOT. You can post it on youtube and then just post a link on this post.

The only other thing you have not tried is switching to BUHW spark plugs. I hope that is the solution to your problem which is easier than anything else. And yes, I understand you already have the BUHX but there is a difference between the two.
 

Tinman78

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Dec 6, 2015
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Sorry I forgot to update. I solved my problem. Number 3 cylinder wasn't firing due to a broken trigger wire in the connector. Now it does 38 mph at 4800 rpms. Much better then before. But now my trim works ok but it bleeds down really fast. Like 20 min from full tilt to bottomed out. Going to try and change the atf out for the right fluid and flush the pump. Hoping it's not seals in the pump but knowing my luck it will be lol.
 

Jiggz

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I read your other post about the T&T leak down. We might as well close this thread and focus on that new one.
 
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