Force 50 help

Keecho

Cadet
Joined
May 23, 2016
Messages
8
Just bought a small boat and need some help, its my first boat so im new. I bought this boat just to take my son fishing once in a while. I got it running but i see a lot of things that dont make sence to me. Serious issues that i know of.
1. Timing lever is currently zip tied. I did it because i couldnt get the motor to idle right unless i moved the trigger lever? All the way forward or 1/4 inch back. And anytime i connect the timing lever to that screw on throttle tower timing is waay off.

2. I thought i had everything adjusted besides my zip tie fix and boat currently runs ok? I guess but is very slow, its a small 14 foot classic old boat, but i cant get the thing to do more then 5-10 mph looks silly riding around the lake haha.

3. Im pretty sure that motor is installed way to low, cavitation plate is about 6" below bottom of hull. I never new that was an issue till i did some research. Only way i see to raise it up is to extend the back of the boat up somehow by glueing, glassing bolting mickeymousing some plate to lift it.

# 3 not sure how much of an issue this is but worse case i can fab a nice stainless mount for it.
Major problem i think is #1 timing and #2 wide open throttle issue.
Any help is appreciated.
Oh i did take it to a local boat shop and got ripped off "long story" so i figured id educate myself a little.

Thanks
Jack
 

tommarvin

Ensign
Joined
Nov 22, 2015
Messages
999
Welcome, sorry about the local boat shop rip off. This forum will help you with anything ,even a total rebuild.
There's a devise called a jack plate to raise motors up.
You can adjust the trigger lever on the tower shaft with a screw, you may need a part.
When the throttle is wide open throttle are the butterflies level.
You may need to clean the carbs, carb cleaner and compressed air. all openings.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
17,927
IF??? someone's wire tied a part like the trigger, the timing has probably moved.
You'll need to get the RIGHT parts.
The connectors look the same but there is a left and a right.
After the parts are installed. The top posts cover timing and synchronization.

​50 Force year or serial #. Points ignition or CDI ignition.
The cavitation plate needs to be brought up. E-bay
Do a compression and spark test. Post the results and then we can help more.
 

Keecho

Cadet
Joined
May 23, 2016
Messages
8
Not sure of year but guy i bought it from said 89
Model# 507x90d
Serial # 026006
What do you mean there is a left and right?
As much as i adjust that screw it doesnt move they lever enough its way off. So im assuming someone put a wrong part on this thing,
As far as the carb the last boat shop did a rebuild on it and said compression is good, i can check if needed also, just have to buy a tool. That left and right comment makes most sence atm but not sure what we are reffering too.
Ill get the part numbers off the cdi or coil once i get home and repost.
Thanks
Jack
 

Nordin

Commander
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
2,437
The timing rod has two plastic connectors that are screwed to the timing plate and the timing tower.
One is right hand threaded and the other is left hand threaded.
I think that is what jerry mean with left and right.

The time advance should be 30dgr BTDC at WOT and if you have points ignition system you can set it static or dynamic with a timing light.
If you have breakless CDI system you have to set it dynamic with a timing light.
You adjust the advance by lenthen or shorten the timing rod.
 
Last edited:

Keecho

Cadet
Joined
May 23, 2016
Messages
8
I dont know, i was looking at pictures of trigger assemblys on ebay withought taking the flywheel off and it seems it fits in there 4 diffrent ways, could it be that mine is installes 45 degrees off? Because i have to zip tie that trigger all the way forward or else the thing doesnt idle at all. So there is no room for adjustment . Not sure whats going on
 

tommarvin

Ensign
Joined
Nov 22, 2015
Messages
999
Get a harmonic puller at HF and remove the flywheel, check the magnets on the flywheel, any brown or burnt marks on the stator, now check the trigger, can you get any # or info off it to see if it's the correct trigger.
 

Keecho

Cadet
Joined
May 23, 2016
Messages
8
Update, i did get a puller that flywheel was a pain to get off, using impact and grade 8 bolts i thought something was gonna shear for sure, finally got it off but was 8 pm and i stopped. What i found was a sheared key on the crank. So for sure my timings off, i marked it before i pulled it and i "believe" based on where the key notch was and where it actually was.. Was 180 degress backwards.
I will look further tommorow. Magnets looked good although there where 2 diffrent types some with skinny wire and some with thick but the whole thing looked glued like jbweld stuff. Trigger looked good and didnt seem like it could sit anywhere else. I think my flywheel turned/slipped and my timing is off because of it? Now i have to figure out how to put it back properly, do i just get a new key and it only fits one way?
Thanks for all the help to all.
Sad thing is just last week supposivly that boat shop charged me 5 bills to set the timing, check the magnets and rebuild card. I dont think he ever took it off even.
Anyway thanks again
Jack
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
17,927
Time to go get the $$$$ back.
The trigger only fits one way.
Yup just put the key in and tighten down to 80# torque.
The keyway and flywheel will bring it right back to the correct timing.
But you stlll need to check it.

The 1st magnet is a strip magnet that fits around the inside of the flywheel.
.The second is in the hub of the flywheel. small and incased in steel.

The things with wires: one is a stator the one with skinny wires is the trigger.

Get a parts diagram for a 1990 Force that's what you have
It will show the connectors for the timing rod.
They are different than the ones for the throttle rod.
You might need the screw and plastic connector.
You MUST do a static timing if you change any parts on the timing arm or connectors.
When you reinstall them try to get them as close as you can to the old setting.
Then it will be easy to adjust as you are real close to the old settings.
.
 
Last edited:
Top