Mercury Mercruiser Quicksilver OEM Part # 819066 1 SEAL-EXHAUST TUBE

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May 9, 2016
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1st off thanks for all the recommendations on prior issues on my rebuild. One of the last parts I need to find is the Exhaust gasket that goes between the "exhaust down tube" to the lower unit. Tried to order this from 4 different places and orders cancelled when they realized they don't have it.
Part number is ( Quicksilver OEM Part # 819066 )
Tried to order what I thought would work as far as gasket material from Canada even, but when arrived not so.
What do you guys/girls use to replace this gasket once it goes bad? My outboard is a 1992 Force 70HP and part is discontinued. Or should I even worry about it.
My concern is that it will be placing exhaust pressure on the lower crank seal if not replaced.
Any input is welcome.
 

Nordin

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Jun 12, 2010
Messages
2,441
Try to make one your self out of thick gasket paper and then add RTV silicone.
I have tried to order when I have rebuild a couple of Chrysler 70-75Hp but it is disconntniued/NLA.
Franz Marine who I have bought parts from gave me this advise because of the NLA issue.
 
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May 9, 2016
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Dneeham, thanks but not sure why they still have it listed as I did purchase that one but then the order was cancelled after they could not find it. I will check with them again in case they actually finally located it.

Nordin, yup, that's all I have come up with as well is to make it myself but having hard time finding the correct material as it is approx 1" think closed cell foam which I'm guessing is also heat resistant. The old foam gasket was burnt/blown out on one side.
 

tommarvin

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Nov 22, 2015
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999
You could try Sea-way marine 425-412-4006
I would try to buy or make a gasket before you put it back together without any gasket.
Nordins thick paper gasket with RTV silicone sounds better than 1" thick closed cell foam that won't last as long,
Did you google the part # somebody else mat have it.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
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May 7, 2008
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17,927
I have seen this done.
​Clean, clean, and clean.
Then while the powerheads off.
Take a clear silicone in the tube and make up the gasket around the base.
Put it on heavy in 1 layer.
Smooth it the best you can.
Also a piece of saran wrap on the exhaust and build up the silicone, let dry and remove the saran wrap.
If it's done right it should work.

​Also layers of a cork gasket silicone together will work too.
 
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May 9, 2016
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jerryjerry05 thanks for the suggestion. Since I'm a gasket arrival away from placing the power head back on the lower unit, I have to make a choice on how to handle. I checked silicone temp resistance and seems it's only around 500 degree. No idea how hot the exhaust is coming through this area of the exhaust. I do realize a lot of people on this forum work on boats everyday and I'm not that knowledgeable in this area, but you guys may not see the motor for a long time, if ever, after the repair is complete. I just want to get out there and fish, but don't want to tear up the old motor doing so. Don't get me wrong, I appreciate the suggestions from everyone very much as most on the forum are experts, but darn. Wished I could find the original gasket.Or at minimum have some confirmation that the suggested fixes worked over a period of time. I think Nordin's suggestion is going to be the winner with a compilation of your cork gasket incorporation. Heck I don't know. Got some thinking to do. Again Thanks for all of the suggestions as that was what I needed. I just want to make sure I don't have to re-do it in a few years. I still appreciate any new suggestions by the way. This forum is VERY helpful.
 

Nordin

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Bluestreakj720 take my and jerryjerrys advise and make your own gasket out of gasket material/Cork and RTV silicone.
I would suggest you to do as Jerry says. Layers out of cork/thick gasketpapier and make it as an sandwich construction.

Choose gasket material and RTV from how high temperature it will handle and choose the most heavy duty one.

I think your engine will work pretty well even if the gasket do not seal 100%. The only thing that can happen is that the exhaust will not leave the leg/engine as fast as it should be and you might register it at idle.
At higher rpm and WOT the force from the exhaust output will help to clear out the leg.
 

Fun Times

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May 16, 2009
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You could try Sea-way marine 425-412-4006.
Have you had a chance to try Sea-Way Marine yet? They typically have a good supply of hard to find parts.

Maybe Yegboats can be of some additional help with this one too.:) Merc # 819066 1
 
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jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
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May 7, 2008
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The paper gaskets are not the way to go.
If you make up anything use rubber, soft plastic, or cork(my choice).
The exhaust is cooled by water by the time it gets to the seal your replacing.
Once it's together the pressure should keep it in place but paper will fall apart.
Don't make it too thick.
 
Joined
May 9, 2016
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Sorry for the bold letters in my last post. It was unintentional.
I've attached a pic of the gasket just for reference.
Thanks for checking Yegboats
Fun Times, No I hadn't called Sea-Way Marine. I will today.
 

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