1975 chrysler 55 hp serial # 557hg throttle wont advance to WOT

[kino986]

Here are pictures with throttle in idle with cam scribe line intersecting roller and throttle at wide open throttle and cam not completely opening the butterfly due to the stopper on the throttle shaft hitting the engine block, along with the picture of the throttle shaft part number which going by diagrams online may be the wrong piece or part number.
Iv tried adjusting the link and moving the ball joint and socket from upside down to right side up to gain a little extra length to open the cam to full throttle. Switched it back to its original spot, iv messed with the linkage as well, I have tried adjusting the throttle cable connector and nothing seems to help.
I'm stumped and it very well may be something completely simple that I'm not seeing. I need maybe a 1/4 -1/2 of an inch maybe to gain full throttle from the cam to open the butterfly.
Please help.
P.s. I have my throttle cable connected, I only disconnected to freely move the tower shaft.

 

[tommarvin]

A butterfly doesn't have to be completely level a WOT to go full speed I think, can you take a picture of the butterfly at WOT
Can you post all new pictures with the throttle cable hooked up, and a few of throttle shaft please..
Have you looked at Frank Acamporas sticky at the top of forum listings on " Link and sync" it's very good

 

[kino986]

I can't find that sticky iv looked and looked and looked and for some reason I can't locate the link and sync and yes I will post new pictures.
I had the boat out on Sunday and had my buddy drive as I went back to see why I'm not getting WOT and manually moved the butterfly by moving the roller down and the motor proceeded to go full throttle and I'd back it back down to rest back on the cam but yes I noticed my butterfly is not getting flat but when I moved the roller to move the butterfly flat that is when I got WOT.
I will post new pics, if anyone can help me find this link and sync sticky I'd really appreciate it.

 

[jerryjerry05]

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...ler-outboards/616464-carb-and-timing-tutorial

​It's the very first post in the Force Forum.

 

[kino986]

Thank you, I was looking for link and sync. I went threw that entire sticky and watched the video.
My issue is the tower shaft will not allow the link to push the cam to WOT due to the stopper arm hitting my engine block.
When that stopper arm hits the engine block the picture above shows that the cam rolls just beyond half way on the roller and not allowing the plate inside the carb to fully open flat.

 

[tommarvin]

Not sure about this, you would back the idle screw on the tower shaft all the way out,
Turn throttle shaft clockwise as far as you can, lengthen the rod between ball adaptors, so you could get more length or throw for full throttle.
But you just messed up your timing and idle to get the longer length for full throttle?

 

[jerryjerry05]

I think?? Just maybe the ball and socket might be mounted upside down on the towershaft linkage???.
Amazing how something so simple can cause such trouble.
​The black plastic eccentric roller ON THE CARB can be adjusted.
I believe(possibly) it the last thing to adjust.
Get a factory manual and follow FrankA's adjustment link.

Be careful of the help you get it might not always be the right info??
Make sure it's right before you change, buy, follow anything posted here.

 

[kino986]

Thank you jerry I appreciate all the help you have fed me. I haven't touched the timing link nor have disturbed it other then advancing the tower shaft to focus on trying to gain WOT and adjusting the throttle linkage.
I am having a hard time locating a 1975 chrysler factory manual the selocs manual I have covers 3.5 to 140 hp and does not go into the more specifics like the throttle links and such.
I have read threw FrankA threads and everything appearseems to be right in place. I will try to remount the ball joint right side up on the shaft to see if that works. You are right something so simple can cause such a headache.
Thank you jerry and everyone who's chimed in.
I'll give you an update wh3n I get to work on it.

 

[kino986]

I switched the ball joint to right side up and still had no luck so I switched it back and took sone More pictures. I'm at the point to where it's gonna sit until late I can afford to get it to a shop because I can't figure it out why I'm not getting WOT even after the adjustments made from what iv learned.
Thank you everyone for your help.

 

[jerryjerry05]

I'm pretty sure the ball needs to be on the top.
​The throttle roller(black plastic thing on carb) can be adjusted.
ANY grooves on the roller?
Change it back over to the top and then unhook the shift cable and then advance it by hand and see where it ends up??
Post a pic of that.

Also what rpms is it running when it's advanced?

The arm doesn't have to be all the way forward to have max throttle??

 

[wickware]

No Title

Look at the differences of my ball fitting?s location that works toward WOT. I have fittings basically ?inline/level? on my 1970 35 HP Chrysler (compared to the 1[SUP]st[/SUP] attachment above).

 

[Nordin]

Maybe you have wrong throttle rod? I have measured the rod on my 45Hp 1975 and it is about 4 1/2 in long when it is full retarded (shortest length).

My have the ball joint on the timing tower facing up, but it depends on where the mounting for the ball is on the timing tower. It can be on different levels.
The importyed thing is that the throttle rod should be horisontal when connected to the tower and the throttle cam.

 

[kino986]

Sorry for the delay but here are the updated photos, I measured my link rod and it's 2 1/2 " long.
Couple sites sell the link for 27 bucks and I'm not willing to pay for a 30 dollar piece if I don't know it's the right one.

 

[Nordin]

When I measured mine I included the plastic balljoints in the length, not only the rod.
My is 4 1/2 in, if yours is 2 1/2 in with the plasticjoints, it is a wrong rod.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Adding 2 inches will not fix his problem.
​At most he needs 1/2 in.maybe 3/4in??
With the adjustment rod extended, as far as it can go.
Take a pic of the throttle plate. Post it.
Put it in the water. Go for a ride.
When you get it going full tilt reach in and push the throttle the rest of the way and see how much further it goes??
​How about a pic of the area where the shift cable connects.

 

[tommarvin]

Remove idle screw rotate tower shaft clockwise, extend adjustment rod, then you figure out how to make the boat run.
Can you cut the metal piece off that's hitting the block stopping you from rotating to WOT ?

 

[Nordin]

Kino986 I have looked closer to your pics The idle screw is almost fully adjusted for highest idle. The screw is almost completely screwed in and the roller is just touching the scribed line at the cam.
Something is WRONG.
There are two possebiletis with your throttle rod.


1. There are more length/threads of your rod to extention it so your throttle butterfly can open up fully. Check.

2. The throttle rod is not the right one. It is to short.

When the idle screw is almost screwed out and the timing fully retarded the roller should start to intersect the throttle cam.

To set the throttle pick up point, the roller which has an exentic hole and can be adjusted by loosing the nut and then turning the screw. It should touch the cam by the schribed line when right adjusted.
Do this adjustment with the throttle rod disconnected from the timing Tower.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The throttle link rod is the same for all of the outboards.
​I looked up the part diagrams for a 1984/50hp a 1990/90hp and a 1975/45hp and all the rods are the same.

The trigger rod on some motors is longer but this app doesn't have a rod, the trigger is attached right at the top of the tower shaft.

Don't cut anything, WRONG info.

 

[oldboat1]

The post on your throttle cam is on the starboard side. Changing it to port might be the adjustment needed. Noting in Wickwire's post (#11), the post is on the port side. (The middle pic in #9 seems to show that the rod position on the post does not line up quite properly -- seems torqued a little.)

 

[tommarvin]

Can you slide the part that's hitting the block stopping you from WOT, can you slide it up or down for more rotation and WOT before the metal stop hits the block?
The metal stop is stopping you from WOT ?