I made it 2 years without needing help!!! (ignition problem)

sportrider

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 4, 2014
Messages
129
hello all, I had the boat out on saturday. after a few hours on the water the engine made a horrible noise. I shut it down and popped the cowl to find aluminum shavings everywhere. I made it back in to the marina and got the boat trailered. after shutting it down at the dock the engine wouldn't restart. I got it home and pulled the flywheel to find one of the 4 bolts that hold the stator in had backed off hitting the flywheel before shearing off. I cleaned up the engine put the flywheel back on and cranked it over to find no spark. I figure the stator got damaged, any way to test it before I just throw parts at it? the flywheel has a groove in it but the magnets don't look damaged so I don't think that is the cause of the no spark condition. and way to test the trigger as well just to rule it out?
 

fhhuber

Lieutenant
Joined
Jun 19, 2014
Messages
1,365
First do a good visual inspection.... My bet is you'll find the stator coils have been shredded or its some other problem. It its obviously damaged then no point trying the electrical tests.

Look really well in there for what the aluminum shavings came from.

Look for wires that got torn up.

Get all of the debris out and look for signs of arcing. It may be shorted and actually work again when the metal shavings are removed.

And... the stator bolt being out let the stator move. So you need to reset it into proper distance from the flywheel's magnet. Too far and no spark.

Damaged magnets at all can mean the flywheel is done.... You may no longer have strong enough magnetic field to operate the magneto.

There are a whole lot of possible results from what you described.
 
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SkiDad

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 18, 2010
Messages
1,518
outboardignition.com - find your engine and look at PDF's under stator and trigger
 

sportrider

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 4, 2014
Messages
129
lol I guess that would help, I just brain farted and figured you guys would remember my 89 125hp single exhaust motor. I sure do! all the shavings are from the flywheel.
 
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salmonslammer

Seaman
Joined
May 6, 2012
Messages
55
Is it a no spark condition on all cylinders?

I just had a similar experience with my 85 horse and now I have no spark on the number 2 cylinder.

Which bolt sheared off?
 

tommarvin

Ensign
Joined
Nov 22, 2015
Messages
999
Bummer, cdielectronics.com for ignition parts, and testing all of them.
I would do fhhuber plan.
Are the flywheel magnets ok, Stator and wires ok, trigger and wires ok, cdi packs and wires, coils and wires ok. spark plug wires,
Test all the ignition parts before you start throwing $ at it, This is going to be expensive.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
17,926
2 magnets on the flywheel, one big strip magnet and smaller ones in the hub of the flywheel.
​You can chew up the big one pretty bad and it still works.

Test the kill switch and then the other parts.
outboardignition.com for test procedures.

You'll need an analog test meter and for the more advanced test a DVA adaptor.
 

Jiggz

Captain
Joined
Oct 23, 2009
Messages
3,817
Test for continuity on the two stator circuits (yel/blu) and it should read 680-800 ohms. Trigger ohms for each pair of wires should be around 48-52 ohms. If you read all these correctly, clean up the stator and trigger of all metal shavings and then inspect the flywheel and magnets. Remember, you could get the correct ohms reading even if a wire is only dangling by a hair or connected by a hair but not voltage. So pay a close inspection of the wiring on the stator and trigger. If everything is OK re-install flywheel and do cranking voltage output check on the stator's yel/blu wires and you should get 180+ peak to peak or around 100~110 VAC on a regular multimeter. If you are not getting these voltages then either a wire or two from the stator is broke or the magnet is missing.
 

sportrider

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 4, 2014
Messages
129
hopefully I'll have the time to start testing tonight. thanks for the links. the bolt that sheared off was the right side bolt closest to the carbs (if standing inside the boat looking aft) I'll take some pictures when I get home to show the damage.
 

sportrider

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 4, 2014
Messages
129
lol right arrrr I mean starboard. but the bolt is the forward on the port side.
 

sportrider

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 4, 2014
Messages
129
No Title

I tested the wires coming off the stator the four wires are actually two black with a blue Tracer and two black with a yellow tracer , if I test resistance on each yellow initially it was 684 ohms the same readings on the blue when I tested resistance on the trigger wires it had zero resistance then I tested resistance on the stator wires again and they had zero resistance I'm going to pick up a new multimeter tomorrow and retest I looked on eBay and found a used stator and flywheel for $60 combined I may just buy those to see if that's the problem. My flywheel looks pretty beat up anyways so I don't think it would be a waste of money even if my flywheel is still good.
 

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sportrider

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jun 4, 2014
Messages
129
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jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
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17,926
Nothing wrong with your flywheel.
​Just lightly sand the inside and make sure the dust is all gone.
 

Jiggz

Captain
Joined
Oct 23, 2009
Messages
3,817
Double check your stator and trigger readings. The pair of stator wires should be blue and yellow NOT blue-blue or yel-yel. If you continue to get zero ohms or you are probably referring to infinity or open circuit on the trigger wires, make sure you are reading on the correct pair of wires. Let us know if you need a wiring diagram or you can probably search for one in here.
 

tommarvin

Ensign
Joined
Nov 22, 2015
Messages
999
One of the posts on your stator is gone, in the picture,?
Is that a piece of your flywheel magnet sticking out came loose in the second picture of the two flywheels?
I would get the E-Bay flywheel and stator for $ 60 bucks.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
17,926
The stator in the pics is probably a CDI unit and they didn't always use the same color as the OEM.
​Contact CDI or go to the site and look up installation procedures for the right color code??
​Tom?? The post is just covered with plastic sealer/ epoxy.
That's where the wires enter the coil.
 
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fmt2bx

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 27, 2015
Messages
217
The stator in the pics is probably a CDI unit and they didn't always use the same color as the OEM.
​Contact CDI or go to the site and look up installation procedures for the right color code??
​Tom?? The post is just covered with plastic sealer/ epoxy.
That's where the wires enter the coil.

Here some info about wire colors: The original and the new CDI in( parenthesis )

Screen Shot 2016-04-22 at 5.09.38 PM.jpg
 
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