1975 chrysler 55 hp serial # 557hg lower unit issue

[wickware]

No Title

First, pull the lower unit?s rod all the way up, then push all the way down to feel and see the difference in R & F locking and N being free. I tried to brighten the Pic to show the coupler. The marks were for ?my use?, showing where the coupler would be centered in neutral when replaced as it was taken off.

Look at the info and my last post. With the shifter in neutral and shift rod ?on the Lower Unit in the neutral position (centered between up and down)?, start the coupler on upper and lower threads at the same time to keep the shifting in neutral.

My New Concern, ?Will the long and short legs and All Controls (shifters) adjust the same?? My tips are specific to my long leg and shift handle vs buttons.

I hope this helps! If I could reduce my errors it might help more. LOL!

PS: Catch a fish for me, as I try to find some energy after passing two seasons before retiring the boat.

 

[kino986]

Well the time has come to announce that the old girl successfully shifts and idles good. Was just a simple shift cable connector adjustment needed. At first I manually tested the shifting in reverse and forward, trying to spin the propeller shaft in reverse, ( gave me struggle, moved up to the flywheel and tried spinning that and watched the propeller shaft which spun counter clockwise. I then did this test with the engine in forward gear and watched the shaft move clockwise.
I then tested my shifting after turning the motor on, after warming her up I shifted slightly into forward with the control box and the engine shifts flawlessly. Pulled her back into neutral then back into reverse again flawless.
Fingers crossed, now I need to find the time to get her out on the lake and do a final tune up if she isn't performing 100%
I'm pretty sure my throttle adjustment could probably be fine tuned to accept the greatest performance threw acceleration abs into WOT.
I'll give updates on my first lake test

 

[kino986]

Ok everyone, I'm back with my water test on the lake, I was able to get her out on the lake for a cruise.
Everything went great, cranked her over and she started up. I sat at the dock and allowed her to warm up for a min and untied and shifted the motor into reverse which gave me no problems. I got out to where I could turn around and shifted from reverse to forward gear and had no issue and shifted flawlessly.
So I took this video after I had did a lap on the lake and decided to sit in neutral and take the cowling off and proceed with moving again with the help of my brother in law driving.
So, I have diagnosed I have low power due to the throttle linkage off not allowing the throtitle cam on the carb to open the butterfly completely flat or horizontal inside the carb. Therefore I am not able to get full performance.
Anybody have any instructions or step by step instructions on how to correct this issue from idle speed to WOT position.

 

[kino986]

http://vid113.photobucket.com/albums/n240/ringmaster986/Mobile Uploads/20160424_181204.mp4

 

[kino986]

Ok, I thought id also finally give you all a picture of what I have and equipped with trying to cruise around the lakes.

 

[kino986]

Ok, I thought id also finally give you all a picture of what I have and equipped with trying to cruise around the lakes.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n240/ringmaster986/Mobile Uploads/20160424_191319.jpg

 

[jerryjerry05]

One of the top post in the Force Forum is a link by FrankA called Link and Sinc.
.​It has instructions on setting up the linkage.

 

[kino986]

I am having a hard time locate this thread link and sync I have even pm frankA but no luck so far.

 

[kino986]

[No message]

 

[kino986]

[No message]

 

[kino986]

I apologize guys I'm having an issue trying to post pictures using my phone since my computer is down please bear with me.
Here are pictures with throttle in idle with cam scribe line intersecting roller and throttle at wide open throttle and cam not completely opening the butterfly due to the stopper on the throttle shaft hitting the engine block, along with the picture of the throttle shaft part number which going by diagrams online may be the wrong piece or part number.
Iv tried adjusting the link and moving the ball joint and socket from upside down to right side up to gain a little extra length to open the cam to full throttle.
I'm stumped and it very well may be something completely simple that I'm not seeing. I need maybe a 1/4 -1/2 of an inch maybe to gain full throttle from the cam to open the butterfly.
Please help.

 

[tommarvin]

1. You know you don't have the throttle cable hooked up you need to hook it up first with 1/4 inch tension..
2.Put the ball joint back to the way it was when you started.
3. You can gain length for the ball joint buy unthreading either end of the rod as much as you need.
4.You can adjust the idle screw on the throttle shaft.

 

[wickware]

No Title

You need a manual. Good Luck!!!

 

[kino986]

I took the throttle cable off to move the tower shaft freely and I did put the ball joints back to its original spot, I have adjusted the throttle linkage numerous times and have it as far as it will allow me to safely keep it attached, I have messed around with the idle screw as well and nothing is allowing me to gain extra length to push the can downward more to gain full throttle. I have a manual but it's a selocs and I haven't seen anything in it regarding adjusting the throttle linkage there's a huge section which I went threw covering idle mixture answer syncing the carbs but nothing covers how to adjust throttle linkage and cam and or tower shaft.