Gamefisher 9.9 Model 225 581994 Chrysler?

Bullie

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I traded for a Gamefisher 9.9 recently. It seems to be in perfect condition considering its age. Compression is 120 on both holes. The previous owner rebuilt the carb but said it wouldn't stay running.

It has spark jumping 7/16 on the bottom cylinder but has very little spark on the top. Maybe it will jump a couple of millimeters. I pulled the flywheel today and was a little stumped. It had normal looking coils but no points or condensers. I don't see a power pack on this thing so I am stumped. What should I do? I hope it doesn't involve making a boat anchor. The grease on this thing isn't even discolored.
 

jerryjerry05

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More pics? Year?

​Try swapping the coils around?

I looked up the parts diagrams and couldn't find a pack or any control device? Pics of the motor?
 

Bullie

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It's a 1991 9.9 Gamefisher. It looks like several of the Chryslers I have owned but it has this weird ignition system. I will get some more pics. I have been advised to try to switch it to a points system.
 

fishrdan

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That ignition system uses BIM coils which are notorious for going bad, like you are seeing. They are NLA, but Standard Magneto supposedly makes new ones. Call them (don't Email) and see if they can get you the part, probably $75-100. I opted to go with the $200 CDI ignition upgrade and it's been running flawlessly for 6-7 years. I chose the CDI upgrade due to the BIM coils high failure rate, 25 year old part... My other BIM coil was still working A-OK and I sold it on Ebay to recoup some of the CDI upgrade cost, so that may be a source for a used BIM coil if you want to get it running on the cheap.

You should rebuilt the fuel pump if it hasn't been done, those old rubber parts are not ethanol resistant, dry up and crack.

Also, keep an eye on the fuel line quick disconnect, pump up the fuel bulb and keep pressure on it to see if the quick disconnect fitting leaks. I've had to replace mine twice due the fitting not sealing properly, and the OB sucking air in the fuel line, caused bogging down at high RPM due to being fuel starved.

I noticed the prop is missing, do you have it? The plastic props are pretty spendy...
 

Nordin

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I was in action to wright the same but fishrdan was faster then me.
Just an information, Maxrules has the CDI retrofit kit ................. 251 dollars!
 

Bullie

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An update, after alternately staring at and then ignoring this little motor I finally decided to give it another shot. As kimcrwbr1 recommended, I found a flywheel, mag plate, and cam from an older (1968) Chrysler 9.9. After swapping some things back and forth I have spark. I did lose one of silly little c-clips on the points post but hopefully i can find one of those locally. Anyway, I have made some progress finally. Hopefully I will have a video of it running soon. Do I have to go back with the original plastic prop on this thing? It's pretty dear to the sears folks.
 

jerryjerry05

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Glad it's getting results. Unfortunately something that old the prop could only.be the Sears one. Is there a tag on the lower unit that tells what size prop? The 1989 Force uses the same lower unit. There are some props available.boatsdotnet They start at $82 ebay has them too find your part # from the above site and use the part #s on ebay.
 

Bullie

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Thanks jerryjerry05. I will do that. $82 doesn't sound great but it is a lot better than the $132 plus shipping I am seeing at Sears.

I will see if I can get it to start today. If it will I will be seriously shopping for a prop and impeller. Looks like the impeller is common enough and reasonable.
 

Bullie

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The motor is only running on one cylinder. No spark at all on the top hole. I ordered an impeller as I saw no water flow at all from the motor and new condensers. Still chasing rabbits on this one.
 

jerryjerry05

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Try swapping the condensers around.
Then if your spark follows the condenser then you know it's bad.
​Usually the points are the problem. You might need to file them down.
 

Bullie

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I think you have already told me the problem but I tend to be a bit hardheaded and lazy until I learn a lesson a few times. Anyway, one of the condensers had tape around the wire so the first thing I tried, several tries ago, was to swap the condensers around. I got no spark at all that time. Before I had spark on the bottom cylinder. I pulled the tape off and the wire itself was intact but the insulation had been worn off. I used some liquid tape to make a better repair and then reinstalled the condensers in their original positions. I got spark on both cylinders and thought I had it. The motor starts easily but would not idle well and I soon saw unburned fuel in my barrel. Checked spark again and the top hole was dead again.

I have a NOS condensers and an impeller on the way. I will completely remove the points, both sides, and clean them well when I put in the new condensers. If that doesn't correct the problem I guess new points will be necessary.
 

Bullie

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The impeller came in today so I decided to give it another shot. I pulled the flywheel again and removed and carefully cleaned the points then reinstalled. Bright blue sparks on my air gap testers from both wires. I buttoned everything back up and it started right up. It pumped water great too. jerryjerry05, thanks for the encouragement to revisit the points.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bF-IoOzaqV0

Now I have a new problem. I can't shut it down easily. It's running too well to choke completely out. It had a MOB switch attached to the old coils/mag plate. I guess I can use that to ground the new ignition out? I don't know how to do that yet.
 

Nordin

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Normally you shut down magneto ignition systems by shorting the points out to each other.
You can ground it out too but the yiu need a 2 pole switch/push button.

Run a wire from each points and connect the wires to a normally open switch/push button.
 

Bullie

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I had to drill a few holes but I followed Nordin's advice and added the wire to the points. I just reconnected it to the MOB switch which will works for shutting it down but I was able to find a replacement kill switch on EBay. Hopefully it will then look and work as it should.

Another related question. Is there a way to check the coils original to this motor? I have no use for them anymore and at least one was working well so I am hoping I can find someone that can use them.

I tried the "normal" method of checking the coils with my multimeter and they tested out good.
 
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