Tell Tale woes from down under !!

[hundee r1]

Jerry, only seal on top of the pump housing is the one around the driveshaft, nothing around the water tube, that just slides inside the pump housing as a slide fit.

Of note, the white adapter shown here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NIB-Force-8...ash=item463f0e3b37:g:qzwAAOSwstxVEFcP&vxp=mtr

is lodged onto the motor and without trying with tools, it wont come off, its visible in this pic:

http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff352/silverbackracing/IMAG0851_zps9apkcdbb.jpg

Hard to believe that the hairline cracks could be the cause, but unless there is an elephant in the room Ive missed, I'm lost...

 

[tommarvin]

That white water pump adaptor, stuck on the water tube in supposed to be connected to the water pump housing. you need to remove it, and install it back into the water pump housing. If it won't go back into the water pump housing permanently you need a new housing.

This is your problem,

 

[jerryjerry05]

The crack isn't the problem.
​The rubber washer on the top of the pump is right.
Like Tom said the adaptor could be the problem.
If it doesn't align just right????
It's(white thing) supposed to be in the pump and then meet the tube when the lower is put on.

You might have some crap/ crud in the exhaust housing or the cooling passages??
Without taking it apart you might not have the flow you need.

When I work on an overheat problem, I use my heat gun.
It tells where the hot spots and the cooler areas are.
Under $20 Amazon.

 

[Frank Acampora]

It is a very common problem for the white adapter to become stuck on the water tube. Just on general principles I usually try to get them free and then after cleaning the water tube coat the inside of the plastic and the outside of the water tube with anti-seize or lubricant to prevent it happening again.

I some times grab it with a pliers and twist or use an impact hammer to drive it down off the tube. The problem is that if it is stuck really fast and you pull too hard, you can pull out the water tube from the upper grommet. Then you are in a world of crap. It almost always requires dismounting the power head to replace it properly.

If I can not get the plastic adapter off the tube with reasonable force, I just leave it there. Too much force will damage the adapter.Remember: It was assembled in the correct position and should go back into the pump correctly.

The plastic adapter is an internally tapered piece provided only to ease installation of the lower unit and is a tight slip fit in the water pump with no seals. Its sole purpose is to aid you in guiding the water tube home during installation of the lower unit.When assembled, the water tube reaches down to the internal flange on the bottom of the plastic adapter and keeps it from riding up.

First try to wiggle it off and clean it. Then, If you decide it is too dangerous to remove the plastic adapter from the water tube simply assemble the lower unit being careful to have it enter the pump outlet. Unless the outlet is cracked and the adapter loose in it you will not lose any water. If it will make you feel better, you can try coating the outside of the adapter with a tiny bit of silicone RTV--won't do any good but as I said, it may make you feel better.

OR: A less better solution in my opinion is to cut off the adapter and buy a new one-- but why replace a perfectly good functioning part? I do see ones where the engine has been overheated drastically and the plastic is melted. In these cases I do replace even though the part may still be functioning.

 

[hundee r1]

ahhh, I was wondering if this white adapter may be the issue. I just had a quick look at removing it from the tube but it seems to be well and truly stuck and I don't feel like going too far and having to remove the power head to refit the main tube!!

I'm inclined to reassemble with some RTV and go for a burn to see what its like. I do like the idea of sourcing a new housing and adapter, carefully using a dremel remove the adaptor and refit everything as Mr Force had intended.

Frank, reading between the lines, are you of the opinion that the system is still working at a sufficient capacity to keep my motor cool enough to function as it should even tho my tell tale is weak?

 

[jerryjerry05]

No Title

You can put a piece of hose over the pickup tube.
​Just make sure it aligns and fits snug.
If the buzzer doesn't go off?? That doesn't mean your getting enough water to cool correctly.

You could still have hot spots. That's when the heat gun comes in handy.

The pic is from a motor that didn't get flushed.

The heat gun showed the top cyl cooling and the bottom HOT!!!

The motor is on a pontoon in salt water and just about didn't make the repair.
Without silicone on the head gasket and sealing up a few holes??

The salt ate through the soft aluminum.

 

[tommarvin]

Please buy a new water pump housing,carefully cut the white plastic adaptor off.

 

[oldboat1]

If it were mine, I would want to use a heat gun (above posts), and get some kind of benchmark temp readings. I would start with the top of the head to insure operating temps were appropriate, then would take additional readings looking for hot spots, as jerryjerry suggests. Additionally, think I would try running it without a t.stat installed. Covering the open housing with your hand apparently gave you a working tell tale, as I read your post (water provided with a hose via the normal intake).

Think I would suspect incorrect installation of the thermostat or a faulty fit. Frank mentioned the chance that the stat housing could block the tell tale (on my reading). Maybe that should be examined. (JMO)

 

[jerryjerry05]

Thermo usually only fits one way.
​The thermo I think is a 132d(probably wrong).
You might have some hotter spots?
Any more than 10d I'd check the passages.

 

[hundee r1]

Guys, I highly doubt hot spots in the motor. It was rebuilt less than 2 years ago by myself.
The block was hot tanked during the oversize machining process and its been washed down and run on muffs after every use.
I have no reason to think its running hot or has over heated, again, buzzer tested fine, no paint has cooked nor have I smelt or seen anything to tell me it has

The reason I had to block off the thermostat with my hand was because I had the housing off at the time I tested it with the hose.

I've re installed the thermostat now, will order the water pump parts, but will shot water up the pipe before bolting up the lower and see what my tell tale looks like with hose pressure.

Thanx

 

[hundee r1]

As promised, I would provide closure once found.

My dealer quoted next day delivery on the water pump housing and water tube seal. the next day upon arriving to pick them up I was advised they where on back order without able to tell me a ETA. 2 weeks and alot of frustration latter , my parts arrived from the US.
With a small window in the weather to get out to one my favourite spots I promptly put it together straight away.
One thing I noticed was that the new tube was a much tighter fit in the new housing compared to my old assembly, even after repairing the housing with epoxy.
So, I ran it on muff then set off on an overnight fish.

I did 25km each way, stopping every 10km or so to check, the fish where hungry and waiting for us, but best of all, the Force is strong in the tell tale!!
Thanx to all.

 

[GA_Boater]

So all is well in the Southern Hemisphere again, hundee.

Looks like you got the Fin of Approval!

 

[hundee r1]

another 3hrs on the water yesterday, stream is still nice and strong