1997 force 120 charging issues

[mattandapril]

I have a 1997 force 120 that has electrical issues, the tach was not working and I traced to problem to a bad regulator, I checked stator and the ohm readings were fine and it puts out 38vac between 2 yellow wires. I replaced regulator and it was either defective when received or it blew as soon as motor cranked. I am thinking about replacing stator and regulator Is there anything that would cause regulator to blow or is the stator over loading it? Thanks for any help.
Matt

 

[tommarvin]

I would got to cdi electronics.com fill in your year make hp and part, they sell coils, power packs, triggers, stators, regulators and other stuff ignition.

They have trouble shooting on every ignition part, some you can do without testers, We have a 1988 125 and it's just a rectifier only, they have a upgrade to a regulated rectifier, the point you ask I'm not sure.
Charging is alternator/stator, getting regulated or rectifier, I would test the stator cdi explains how, long story short, cdi is the king of ignition parts you won't be disappointed. I would test stator if your sure it's ok get a cdi regulator and your charging problems are solved .

 

[Frank Acampora]

It is not unheard of for electronics to go bad in the first hours of use. However, It is surprising. Did the regulator actually fail or did the fuse blow? It may sound a bit , but remember: When the TV doesn't work the first thing you check is---Is it plugged in?

 

[mattandapril]

There are no fuses between the stator and the regulator/rectifier and new r/r was only putting out 2vdc with 38vac going into r/r. Another odd thing about the regulator, both the old one and new the tach would not work with the red wire hooked up, as soon as I unplug the red wire the tach works.

 

[pnwboat]

Something is not right. You should not be seeing 38vac across the two yellow wires. Normal AC voltage output from the stator should be around 18VAC maximum. Try measuring between ground and one of the yellow wires and see what you get. Make sure the case of the voltage regulator is making a good connection with the mounting plate (ground). There should also be a black wire connecting the coil/regulator mounting plate to the engine block. Make sure it's in place and making a good connection. This black wire provides the ground reference connection to the engine block for the ignition and charging system.

If that all checks out, then I would suspect that you may have a problem with your 12VDC load. Make sure the battery itself is good. Have it checked out at the local auto parts store, or try a different battery. The fact that when you disconnect the red wire, the tach begins to work, may be an indication that there is a problem in your 12 volt load,..... wiring, radio,lights, fish/depth finder etc. You can try and isolate by pulling fuses one by one and see if your voltage output on the regulator returns to 12.5VDC at idle. It should increase around 13.5 to 14.5 volts at 2500RPMs or higher. In order for the regulator to function properly, you need to have a good charged battery hooked up to it to get an accurate DC voltage reading.

 

[Nordin]

As pnwboat indicate, I Think you have a bad load at DC side of the r/r.
Something is grounding out the r/r.

Try to unhook all auxiilary equipment that do not have anything to do with the engine and measure the DC voltage.
If the DC voltage raise up to 13,5-14,5 Volts then connect each one of the auxiliaries and look when the voltage fall down.

 

[mattandapril]

one other piece of info the force was just put on the boat the previous motor had no electrical issues it was just worn out, I did not install motor, could there be an issue in the motor wire harness I can not get ahold of the person who did the install. I have minimal electronics only lights and fish finder and power trim. I have a new cdi stator and regulator on order I do not want to install until I am sure there are no other issues to cause them to fail.

 

[tommarvin]

Do Nordins plan before you put the new stator and regulator in, there very expensive, I don't know if you can get your money back if unopened or unused.

Unhook all equipment and you need to get 13.5-14.5 , If not the something is grounding out the r/r and find that, before installing stator and regulator/rectifier ?

 

[mattandapril]

Thanks for the responses I was able to figure out the issue it was a grounding issue when I moved the ground wire to a new location everything works. Now I have an issue with backfire on the bottom carb and a miss in #3 cylinder from top, the miss sounds like it goes away at higher rpm and does not backfire, could this be just a carb issue or power pack?
Thanks.

 

[mattandapril]

found a loose hose fixed the backfire I still have a mid rpm miss. Any thoughts?

 

[tommarvin]

It's always something with motors, Test ignition parts on bottom carb coil Power pack and,the miss in #3.


Tear apart the carbs completely, everything, clean with spray cleaner,blow air though every opening, get a rebuild kit for each carb at iboats.com

Free factory service manuals at www boatinfo.no/lib/library.html Force is the other tab at the bottom "we don't get no respect"

Find your motor, find carb, with the manual in front of you put carb back together, don't forget to adjust the float, focus this is harder than it looks.