Pump & Seal Replacement on 87 Capri 1400 Force 50 Model 507X7C Serial 2944

[Mo1]

Thank you Frank for the tip on removing the spline seal. I removed the spline seal and water pump and pressure tested the drive and shift seal and I heard and saw air leaking out of the drive shaft.

Just to clarify. Did you say I could remove the seals with a flat head screw driver. Ive seen videos were guys drill screws into the seal and remove them that way. Is that not necessary with this model?

I believe you said that I could remove the drive shaft? When I pull on the shaft it come out to a certain point and then stops. I don't want to force it for fear of breaking something and I don't want to remove it if I don't have too. Thank for the help.

Im taking videos so that I don't forget how to put this stuff back

 

[Frank Acampora]

The drive shaft will only pull out a little way with the water pump installed because the impeller drive pin hits the seal. If it is sticking with the pump removed then there is probably some gunk or a damaged spline holding it. It should slip right out of the lower unit with no damage caused even if you need to use a little force. If there was no air leaking from around its seal then don't bother to pull the drive shaft and change the seal--unless you want a new seal in there.

Seals with the exception of the shift rod seal can be removed with a screwdriver or seal puller. The shift rod seal MUST have a screw inserted and used to pull it.

 

[Mo1]

It's definitely leaking and that's why the gear oil was milky white? Thank you

 

[tommarvin]

I was wrong, that impeller has a set and needs to be replaced , BUT is that enough impeller to move any water, first post said no water flow ?

 

[Mo1]

I'm dealing with the drive shaft oil seal from hell.:mad-new: I used a screw driver and removed all the rubber on the oil seal but the meal ring is still in there. I'll pick up a seal puller at the auto parts store tomorrow. Will applying heat be OK?

 

[Nordin]

No need of heat or puller.
Use a small flat screwdriver or an awl.
Put the tip just at the surface where the seal metalring faces the casting surface. The metalring from the seal is soft and thin and you will ripp it with the tip.
Then you will cut or bend it with a nipper.

Before you install the new seal, sand the surface in the casting of the LU with fine sandpaper just to get a clean "new" surface for the seal.

 

[Mo1]

Thanks Nordin,. I used a slim flat head and tapped between the surface and surface of the opening to pry the metal of the seal off. Before getting aggressive like that I made an attempt with a seal puller and it wouldn't budge.

I noticed that two of the four bolt holes for the water pump housing had rubber inserts? Do the kits come with those.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Are you certain they were rubber inserts? A lot of people like to use black silicone RTV to seal the bolts from water and corrosion. I must admit, in the ones I have seen like that, the bolts came out very easily and there was no corrosion or damage to the aluminum.

 

[Mo1]

Could be Frank. There was some dark sealant on it i haven't removed them yet. I ll be cleaning and light sanding it tomorrow. I notice this model doesn't have a gasket but others in the manual do,

 

[Mo1]

I received the lower Seal kit. I want to make sure I put the seal on right.. The flat side down like in. The video? Are the other seals for the propeller and sfift shaft seal

 

[Mo1]

SO does the oil seal go in with the metal ring side up like in the video above?

 

[Frank Acampora]

The seal is inserted with the flat side down. The reason is this: The seal is designed to primarily keep water out. Because of the shape of the rubber part, if pressure is put on the flat side it is possible for it to bleed through. When pressure is put on the spring side of the seal it TENDS to get tighter even though the primary sealing force is generated by the pressure of the garter spring.

Force, being an entry level engine uses only one seal there and at the prop shaft while higher end engines like OMC use dual seals facing in opposite directions. This not only seals against water intrusion but seals against oil leakage. The single, double lip seal works well enough but, of course the extra safety that the extra cost seal adds to the OMC engines is better.

So: When installing any seal determine what is the first job you want it to do and install it in that direction. Remember: The garter spring side is ALWAYS the side to resist pressure.

On trailer hubs the flat side is out because the heat of running will expand the grease and try to force it out. Even submerged the water pressure is not so great that it would force its way past the seal. AND---Because of the taper on the rubber part, the hub will be easier to install over the axle land used as a sealing surface.

So There! You have been schooled! LOL

 

[Mo1]

OK so flat side down like in the video/ Thanks for the schooling Frank. No only do I know what side goes up but why..

Should I install the seal propeller and water pump housing first and then put the shaft through the pump?

 

[Mo1]

Im getting ready to install lower unit. Just a little confused on something.

Before removing lower unit I placed shifter in the neutral position. When I removed the lower unit it seemed to be in the "Drive". position. If I turn the drive shaft clockwise the impellar turns clockwise as well. That means the lower unit is in Drive right? I did notice that the shifter was hard to move before removing LU. Should I change the position to neutral to match the shifter?

If I change the position of the LU its going the linkage position right? Not sure what to d. Help

 

[Frank Acampora]

Install the seal first using a flat plate or a large socket as a bearing plate to hammer it in. Be careful not to **** the seal as you start it and do not get vicious with the hammer--gentle taps until it is seated. If the casting looks a bit rough or uneven use a little permatex to ensure the steel case seals against the casting.

Lubricate the seal and the shaft and insert the drive shaft, Then install the bottom plate , drive pin, and slide the impeller down the shaft.

Lubricate the seal in the water pump body and slide the body down the shaft. Lubricate the impeller and body with dish soap and as you slide the body over the impeller turn the drive shaft clockwise. This will ease entry and also make the vanes point in the correct direction.

 

[tommarvin]

Make sure the water tube is in the right adaptor location, check immediately at first start up for water coming out indicator hole.

I'm not 100%sure about this, if the shifter is in neutral, the lower shift rod needs to be in neutral. We have a 125 and the lower shift rod comes up outside the lower unit, into a fitting with a pin that goes through and a very small cotter key holds the pin in.

Another way there is a threaded rod on top and a threaded rod on bottom going into a coupling.

I would not change any linkage, just test it in forward neutral reverse, when you put it back together.

Torque wrench all bolts if you can,HF has a 20-200 inch pounds for 12 bucks,anti seize all bolts for removal next time.

Did you replace all seals, gear shift rod lower , seal O-rings gear housing cover, any crush ring, this is for a 125

 

[Mo1]

Make sure the water tube is in the right adaptor location, check immediately at first start up for water coming out indicator hole.

I'm not 100%sure about this, if the shifter is in neutral, the lower shift rod needs to be in neutral. We have a 125 and the lower shift rod comes up outside the lower unit, into a fitting with a pin that goes through and a very small cotter key holds the pin in.

Another way there is a threaded rod on top and a threaded rod on bottom going into a coupling.

I would not change any linkage, just test it in forward neutral reverse, when you put it back together.

Torque wrench all bolts if you can,HF has a 20-200 inch pounds for 12 bucks,anti seize all bolts for removal next time.

Did you replace all seals, gear shift rod lower , seal O-rings gear housing cover, any crush ring, this is for a 125

Got it. I didn't replace all the seals

 

[Frank Acampora]

These lower units and shift linkages are way different than the bigger 3 and 4 cylinder engines. When you removed the lower unit you should have only LOOSENED the coupler locknut. That would give you a good starting point for adjustment when you attach the lower unit again.

Now, if you say the shift linkage was difficult to move when you had the lower unit attached, try moving the lower rod. If it is tight the shift rod seal may be swelled or too tight. The rod should move smoothly with just a bit of resistance--enough to seal against water.

Once you go to attach the lower unit, it doesn't matter what gear it is in but it is easier if the engine and lower unit is in forward. The coupler should be completely removed from both upper and lower shift rods. As you push the lower unit up, fit the coupler in between the shafts and start to thread it onto both. This ensures equal thread engagement on both shift rods. Remember: Both rods and the coupler have two different sizes threads. (Both rods are threaded in opposite directions so threading on the coupler will bring both rods closer.) Do this until you can get at least one bolt into the lower unit to hold it.

As you tighten the bolts The shift will move and you will need to adjust the coupler so the rods are not binding.

Once the lower unit is attached firmly do final adjustment of the shift linkage. Put the engine in neutral and see if the prop spins in both directions with no noise. If so, try both forward and reverse to see if they lock up.

Forward gear is down, so adjusting the coupler to draw the two shift rods together will bias the linkage toward reverse. Be careful when adjusting the coupler--a little bit will go a long way. Once you get close adjust 1/4 turn at a time.

It sounds difficult and complex but in reality is it simple and quick. Once you have done it one or two times it will become second nature. You will need an open end 7/16 wrench and for the locknut another 7/16 or possibly a 3/8 open end.

Remember that there is a hole in the midleg through which the lower shift rod fits. Thus you must line up the drive shaft, the water tube, and the shift rod. Thank God the lower unit is light and you should be able to do it alone.

 

[Mo1]

The shift rod was easy to move up and down . Great step by step instructions Frank.Im sure i'll read this post a couple times before adjusting linkage. I did just crack the nut like you said Hopefully I can line everything up.

 

[Mo1]

As I went to install the lower unit I found the spline seal boot. It was blocking the path way to the upper unit. I put the seal on the spline and had a heck of time getting the LU to go back on. I removed the boot and was finally able to get the lower unit in there. Ill probably have to remove it and put it on with the seal. Is that seal absolutely necessary? It doesnt seem like its a water tight sleeve.