time for my winter project

Simple_Man

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I have finally decided to add tilt and trim to my 1987 85hp 856X7B I decided that I want to use "factory parts" due to the space confinements in my garage. My problem is the part numbers for the tilt/trim unit and which ones will work with my setup. Any help would be GREAT.
 

Frank Acampora

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First off, don't buy a TNT unit new. The parts alone will cost your first born male child. Look on the auctions or craigslist and try to buy a decent used unit complete. Just be careful: These TNT units are always in the water and the parts corrode to the point where (although still working) they are impossible to get apart. It may take some time to find a decent unit--be very fussy.

People have come to me to repair their TNT units and after one look I refused because it was simply too much work.

BTW: Any Chrysler or Force TNT unit up until about 1994 will fit between your transom clamps. Any size, 3,4, or 5 cylinder will fit. (except the Force 70 and 75).

If you must buy one without the wiring harness, be aware that again, you don't need to buy new. You can go into a U-Pull-It junkyard and get all the components necessary from GM cars. You just need to be willing to do some wiring changes to the relay seats and we can guide you right here on the forum. It is not difficult.
 
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Simple_Man

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tilt unit.jpg Thanks Frank I'm only worried about getting the wrong parts. flea bay has a couple listed as "new old stock" i dont mind spending the money, but it gets confusing with so many different part numbers ect..... will this one work
 
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Simple_Man

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No Title

Better Pic
 

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Frank Acampora

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Yep! That one will fit. AND, they are giving you the complete package including the trailering bar. I'm curious: How much are they asking?

Upon further examination,of the photo, you will need the 5/8 mounting bar for the trim assembly and you will need to fabricate a mounting plate for the motor/pump. Photo to follow.
 
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Frank Acampora

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There is also an upper mounting bar that secures the tilt cylinder and shock to the engine yoke. Be certain the seller is giving you all these parts.
 

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jerryjerry05

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There is a thrust bracket (F449354) that fits on the king pin area that the trim rams hits when you activate the trim.
Make sure you install it ​before you use the t/t .
It stops the ram from chewing up the soft aluminum.
If it's not in the kit, I have one you can have for postage.
 

Simple_Man

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I'm in Mass. found another used looks ok, I just hate buying off photos.
 

jerryjerry05

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IF????? IT might have been in salt water??????
Think real hard about buying.​
 

Simple_Man

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I bought this one. Hope it is good. Do i have to remove the motor from the boat to install it???????
 

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Frank Acampora

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It looks in decent condition. It should fit your engine. You need not remove the engine from the boat IF you can remove it from the transom clamps and are going to re-use your existing transom clamps. You will, however, need to remove the motor and reservoir from the mounting assembly in order to remove the mount and put it on your transom clamp.

The unit is physically not too heavy but it is a little clumsy and it may be difficult to pass the 5/8 mounting bar through it. You must lubricate the bar well and be careful of the white plastic bushings in the bottom of the cylinders. Before you go to the trouble of installing it try it. You do not need the relays for this. On a separate battery or a good charger set to 15 amps put the blue MOTOR wire to positive and the green wire to negative. The motor should turn and the tilt/trim cylinders should extend. Then reverse the wires with the green on positive. The cylinders should retract. If it does this then at least it is functioning but you can't tell if it leaks down until it is on the engine. Once on the engine you can hook up the relay harness.
 
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Frank Acampora

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Several more hints: You may need to loosen the bottom clamp bolts because every engine does have a slightly different clamp spacing and the trim unit may not fit between them--just a hair interference. Also, not sure exactly how the motor attaches to the adapter. You may need to disconnect the hydraulic lines. If all bolts are accessible, then lift the whole thing in as a unit. On top of the cylinder rams there is a very heavy stainless washer. Once you put the bar through the swivel and the eyes the washer must fit over the land. If it does not, even though the nuts are tight there may not be enough room for them to pass between the transom clamps. Also, remember the stainless saddle that covers the swivel yoke where the trim ram hits it. This is an important piece (as Jerry said). You may need to tap the two holes in the yoke 1/4 X 20 for the 3/8 long stainless screws that hold it.

If you do need to remove the hydraulic lines from the pump there is a specific order to both removal and insertion. This is because with one or two of the lines on, there is not enough room for the wrench. You will see this right away--it is obvious. AND, the back lines are close against the transom and are a PITA to tighten--not much room to swing the wrench. It is preferable to use a special 3/8 flare fitting wrench to an open end.
 
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jerryjerry05

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Start spraying the old stuff with PB Blaster NOW!
It's not gonna be easy to take apart.
 

Simple_Man

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I am going to soak it twice a day for a week before I attempt to take it apart. For now I have to wait for it to get here. and Jerry if you would be so kind as to contact me so I we can discuss the postage.
 
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Simple_Man

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While waiting for it to get here, I was thinking of replacing my control box with one that has a switch in the handle. how do I know which ones will work.
 
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