Engine Loosing Power. Bayliner Capri w/85hp Force Outboard 1988

fisheymikey

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 30, 2012
Messages
450
your stator generates the first wave of energy then the CDI amplifies and sends the energy to the coils. trigger just tels the cdi went to send it. coils aplifies voltage again then the spark plug ignites the fuel and air.

problem with the cdi there is NO way to test. ppl here will tell you take a cdi that works... here is the problem you will never now how it works because sometimes these cdi work or dont work. all components on these engines they have resistance and voltage specs and can be easilly confirmed. the cdi is tied directly to all ignition components. this is only my advice but i have learned the hard way. its up to you to diagnose.
 
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Themanofsteel

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 11, 2015
Messages
312
How do you test resistance and voltage. What do I need? I can find specs I'm sure.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
17,923
To test the system.: you'll need an analog meter, that has a peak reading function.
Then go to CDI and use their test procedures.
Unless you can get a factory manual with the right procedures.

The horn and light should have nothing to do with the system on the motor unless you wired them direct from the regulator or a power sourse from the motor??​
There should be a lead from the battery that controls them.
WD-40 in the switches or the unit itself.
 

Themanofsteel

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 11, 2015
Messages
312
So replacing the coil fixed my low power issue. Boat run great now. Have not tested resistance yet but intend to. Thanks for the help Everyone
 

Jiggz

Captain
Joined
Oct 23, 2009
Messages
3,817
Great. Resistance checking is also a good troubleshooting tool as long as you are familiar with the requirements and your tools. BUT IT IS NEVER FOOL PROOF. This has been proven time and again especially with those tiny trigger wires or those huge negative and positive cables on the engine block and solenoid or even with the starter and rectifier.

The only way to make it fool proof is to do what is called "hot checks" meaning doing voltage output checks with a DVA adapter from the trigger wires and following the electrical path all the way to the plugs. Next to "hot checks" for good troubleshooting is "process of elimination" which means using known working components to replace suspected bad components. But this is only applicable if you have identical parts installed in your motor, e.g. CDM's, Ign coils, carbs, plugs, etc. but never for single part items like trigger coil, stator coil, rectifier, solenoid, starter, unless you have spare working parts that are identical.
 
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