1987 125 Force timing issues

[Muddydec]

Hello its been a while since last issue with the 125 force motor. Here's the skinny, went out last month motor ran fine for half the day then all of the sudden bogged down and died. made it back home scratched my head a little and thought might have been bad gas or fuel issue. Drained the fuel and was taking the bowls off the carbs and noticed the plastic outer plastic piece that connects the trigger to the tower was broke. So ordered the part installed it and set the timing according to the manual it said 34 static. the thing is still hard to start, rough idle and will not go WOT. Not sure what my next move should be. Is the manual wrong with the timing. I keep seeing a lot of different degrees on the threads. 28 30 32 34. What is correct? When the plastic piece broke did it screw something else up? Need help!! Missing great fishing!

 

[SkiDad]

Set it to 28 static. Make sure your carb screws are about 1-1/8 out. Set your idle to 750 rpm in gear in the water.

 

[pnwboat]

Might want to verify that you have good spark on all plugs and check compression. Timing off by 4 or 5 degrees will not affect the motor that much as far as starting etc. I think you may have another issue.

 

[jerryjerry05]

http://youtu.be/tDoR64jP5l8 Video from FrankA on timing.

After a compression/ spark test.
Check for water in the fuel then do the timing.

 

[Muddydec]

Thanks for all your advice. I adjusted the timing to the right setting 28 degrees. It fires but does not run, unless I advance the timing a lot, then it will start and idle but when I go WOT the trigger hits its mechanical stop and it only goes half of WOT. I am not sure if the trigger went bad or one of the coil packs not firing right? Any thoughts?

 

[Frank Acampora]

Remove the flywheel and see if the locating key has sheared. If it has sheared, the flywheel may have shifted position. This will put the timing off and the engine may fire but not run.

 

[tommarvin]

My gut is telling me this is more than setting the timing at 28 degrees. Start searching, the key in the flywheel, test electrical parts on DVM.

Its spark or fuel, if you have spark, then its fuel. We have a 10 micron spin on water separating filter, stops most fuel problems.

I would test the trigger, coil packs CDI, I don't have a clue about no WOT.

 

[Frank Acampora]

I should have told you this in my last answer: Always do simplest tests first. Before removing the flywheel take out the top plug. With a screwdriver in the hole verify that the TDC mark on the flywheel and block correspond to TDC at the piston. If the timing marks do correspond to piston position there is no need to remove the flywheel. If the timing marks do not correspond then the key is most likely broken and the flywheel does need to be removed.