1988 force 125 multiple issues

[psemerzaki]

great site guys, ive learned a lot before signing up hopefully more to come.:joyous:

So i have an 88 bayliner capri with a force 125 outboard (sigh). The issues im having are as follows:

Overheat-only at 1/2 speed to WOT or 15mph and above. The buzzer will shut off after 30 seconds of idling. Always good water out of tell tale, but the motor is definitely too hot. I have replaced T-stat, Impeller and housing, gaskets etc, head gasket, flushed the system with garden hose. Still get overheat at 1/2 to WOT. I have read the prop can have an impact on this, which my prop is way wrong for the engine, also ive heard of this problem being due to water passages PARTIALLY clogged hence only at 15mph and above. Been dealing with this all year BTW.

Also broke the motor mount this past weekend, and the trim has never worked. The electrical for the trim is fine it checks good. I can get a good used motor mount/trim tilt assembly for $550. On top of this I need a prop so add another $150.

Is this thing worth the hassle? Or should I cut my losses and start with something nicer? Any help on the overheat would be great also.

Thanks in Advance guys. Sincerely, sad boater.:grumpy:

 

[batman99]

Your post reminded me of my previous 1996 Force 120 engine. For that Force engine, 2 x head gaskets, impeller, thermostat, fuel pump, CCMS Fibre reed leafs, thicker battery cables, new starter brushes, fuel filter, 2 x carb kits, multiple spark plug replacements, etc. etc. After getting water wash in its lower spark plug, I finally threw in the towel. And, replaced that worn out big block Force 120 with small block 1995 OMC 115 V4 engine. Never had a problem or even hiccup with the Johnson 115. And since OCM V4 is much smaller physical size than large block I4 design, my boat now sits much better in the water (and on the trailer) as well. Recommend replacing your worn out Force 125 with something much better. Glad I replaced my worn out Force 120.

For details, surf: http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...board-any-tips

 

[Frank Acampora]

700 is a lot to invest in the engine and before doing that you should try to fix the tilt/trim yourself A photo of the trim and the broken motor mount would help. Usually the lower motor mount is easily repairable with a few hand tools and a good industrial rubber cement.

It is quite alright to come on the forum and recommend buying another engine, but many people have invested most of their money in the boat and engine and simply do not have the cash to buy another engine. So, they are caught in a catch 22, especially if they can not do repairs themselves.

So, at this point you need to sit down, think of a course of action and decide if you want to mess around more with the engine you have or replace it.

 

[psemerzaki]

The motor mount is too far gone at this point. On these models the mount has a seam in the middle of it where the top mounting bolts go through. That of course is where it split. The trim needs both lines(previous owner cut and capped lines) and also the trim cylinder was leaking hydraulic fluid out of the top around the piston. I had no luck finding these parts. I've also heard the valve body could be bad as well, which is expensive. Figured getting the motor mount/ trim assembly for $550 was a good deal. I have $250 total investment in this boat I got it for free from my father in law. Looking for advice so I can make a plan before I dump money into it

 

[Frank Acampora]

LOOK! With the motor mount, good used ones can be found on line for 50 bucks. I charge 100 to repair and replace them and that is with a rebuilt mount that will never break again. Reason I charge so much is because it is almost a given that bolts will snap and I will need to drill and tap them. Not fun on stainless.

If your total investment is only 250, that makes a difference in how much you are willing to put into the boat. For the prop, look on the auctions and buy a good used one for about half the 125.

Trim cylinder is a thankless job. More than likely you will snap one or more of the five bolts holding the cap on. The cap has a simple O ring around the top of the cylinder. I have never seen one of these go bad. There is also an O ring sealing the ram. These do go bad and the wiper ring and protector ring also corrode. It is fixable with a new cap. So, here is where you need to decide. I still think 550 is too much, I would be more comfortable at 400.

However, if you can get a whole unit FIRST be certain that it 1. functions, and 2. It is not corroded tight into the transom clamps.

700 is still a lot to invest but if you are willing to do the work and have the time you may have a decent engine to service you for at least a couple of years. Do not expect to get back the money at a later sale. Consider it the cost of enjoyment.. Good luck on whatever you decide.