Tilt/ Trim under power

redstrat

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Dec 29, 2011
Messages
202
I am noticing that my 125 Force will trim under power but only go to the tilt if I am at idle speed. I don't have a problem with this but I would like to understand how this is controlled.
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
If it is the older style three cylinder system, here is how it works: The pentagon shaped trim cylinder is larger in diameter and thus generates a greater hydraulic pressure against the engine. It is also located at a different angle so this pressure is applied with more force. THUS you can trim at any engine speed because the mechanical and hydraulic pressure is great.

Now the tilt cylinder has a smaller diameter so it generates less hydraulic pressure. It is also located at a very sharp angle to the engine and thus can not generate much mechanical force. THUS you can not tilt the engine if it is running in gear at more than--about 1000 RPM. This number varies from system to system. Some can go as high as 1500, some can not.

If you tilt the engine and then put it in gear and raise RPM, it will tilt down rather quickly. This is because the tilt cylinder piston has relief valves built into it to allow the engine to tilt up quickly if something is hit at speed. The other check valve allows it to return a little more slowly. There are also check valves built into the pump to prevent over-pressuring the system. You can tilt the engine and run at idle or slightly above for shallow water operation.

If you try to tilt the engine at speed and hold the switch for any length of time the oil will foam. Same thing will happen if you trim all the way down and hold it. Older 3 wire trim motors without relays had a bimetal switch built into the motor. If you held the switch too long the bimetal would heat up and open. Then you needed to wait until it cooled to have trim/tilt again.

At planing speeds, going to full trim and holding the switch for a couple of seconds to ensure it is actually at full trim (if that is what the hull requires for best performance) will do no harm.
 
Last edited:

redstrat

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Dec 29, 2011
Messages
202
Thanks Frank, You have been helpful more times than I can count. If you ever choose to host a weekend workshop I will be the first to sign up. I should say that my rebuilt and ported 125 has been running flawlessly this year. Thanks again

IMG_5962.jpg
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
Beautiful engine and beautiful boat. What brand is the hull? And where is she docked? That looks like a very nice creek.

BY the way: Even though there are relief valves in the tilt system you REALLY don't want to hit anything at speed. It is brutal on the TNT, the engine, and the transom.

. Watch James Bond: Live and Let Die: They jump boats and bang around the engines. I'm sure those engines weren't good for much after the scenes they were used in. The original GT150 rated for 90 used an Evinrude 135 and was one of ten used for the scene. Only one made the jump and it was and possibly still is a record. That hull IS documented and last time it sold the going price was 10,000 dollars. The others were presumably sold to cast members and records are lost.
 

redstrat

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Dec 29, 2011
Messages
202
She is a 1973 Checkmate MX-16. I took three years to restore her including stringers, floor, transom, paint and upholstery. The picture is from Wilson harbor on lake Ontario. She usually sits on a trailer in my barn near Albany N.Y. I have been raising the motor on the jack plate in increments looking for performance improvements. At this point trimming the motor seems to make no difference. I have no pressure or temperature gauges at this point so I'm coming up slowly. I also think I could use more prop. I am using a standard 13X19. I have a 2 to 1 lower unit I am planning to re-seal over the winter. Thanks for your interest and input. Mark
 
Top