Unable to find skeg protector to fit worn skeg on 125 hp 1988 force Avoiding welding

[Tennisrt]

Skeg for 1987 lower unit with 1988 motor. Unable to find skeg guard to fit
July 27th, 2015
I have purchased a skeg from two different companies and both of them were unable to fit the size that I have on my unit. My skeg is 9 inches across at the edge of the bullet and drops straight down on the side of the prop. I have heard that force used three different types of lower units on 1987 and 1988 motors. The skeg I have purchased are 8 inches on the opening side and angle back towards the prop. Need help to purchase the right style skeg for 1988 motor with 1987 lower unit bought brand new like that. I verified with original owner. Any ideas?

 

[Frank Acampora]

You say you don't want to weld. A new skeg is about 30-40 bucks. For a lot less you can buy a chunk of 1/4 inch hard aluminum and cut it to what you want. Then a good welder will charge about 100 bucks to weld and fillet the new piece. It will be way stronger than any replacement skeg and look nicer too. I did this on my Chrysler 140 and then decided it would be a good idea to hit a rock. The hard aluminum welded skeg only dented a bit. A couple of minutes with a belt sander restored the leading edge.

 

[gm280]

If your present skeg is shorter then the prop diameter then I say go for a weld on fit. If the skeg isn't shorter then the prop diameter, then clean it up and boat on...

 

[Scott Danforth]

May want to check your local radiator shop. Many charge well under $100 for welding on a skeg. Saw a sign at a marina the other day that listed skeg repair for $50

 

[Tennisrt]

Thanks for all the advice. I have heard I have to drop the lower unit to take it in and get welded is that true or can they just weld on while still attached to the motor.
That is why I was avoiding the welding Any thoughts? Really appreciate the help

 

[Scott Danforth]

will depend on where you are broken off. if you have a bit of skeg for them to attach to, they will most likely only pull the drain plug to keep from pushing the seals out when they weld it. if you are broken off at the gearcase itself, then you will have to pull the bearing carrier.