85 force transom saver bar??

[Frank79]

As far back as I can remember there was the transom saver bar for the 1984 bayliner 16 footer with the 85 force engine. Now, the bar was not adjustable,( no tilt with boat,) it has 1 setting and then the straight bar slides thru and the engine will rest on this while trailoring. I've always notice that the skag was really not that high off the ground and always prone to scrapping if the ground was un level. Am I missing another bar that's been lost for countless years or is that just how bayliner and force designed it?

 

[GA_Boater]

A transom saver is probably better than the Force thing. And a heck of a lot easier to find today.

http://www.iboats.com/Search/dm/?ke...it.y=0&cart_id=020117799&session_id=548519356

 

[Frank79]

Well I do have the stock transom saver. But the engine sits pretty low for towing, but it's always been like that.

 

[jerryjerry05]

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That's the only one.

 

[Frank Acampora]

If it is the one that jerry posted a photo of, it is not a transom saver. It is a trailering bar. Now, if the skeg is too close to the ground you can go to a welding shop and have them add a second U shaped 1/2 inch bar to extend it. Although I do find it a little difficult to believe that you are in danger of scraping the skeg. I have three different boats of three different sizes and none of them position the engine too close to the ground when the trailering bar is used.

I never believed in transom savers. The engine, when you gun it and even at cruise speeds will put more stress on the transom than a slightly bouncing engine snugged to the trailering bar while being towed will ever do.

 

[Frank79]

The picture above is almost identical to what I have, minus the added on metal part.There is only one hole on the transom bracket that will allow this to fit. Then the straight bar slides in thru it all. It will not adjust to any other setting while trailoring. Several guys have noticed how low the skag is to the ground and have also tried to adjust it, but it can't be done with this factory stock made setting. I have docked the boat for 20 years so having the other bracket was never a big deal. We used the trailer twice a year, once to put the boat in and once to take it out. So none of us remember if there was another trailoring bar that got lost so long ago

 

[Frank79]

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[Frank79]

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[jkust]

I'll just add that we bought an add-on trim and tilt kit in 1985 when we bought our 1984 Bayliner. It's easy and betting pretty inexpensive now days.

 

[Frank Acampora]

As it stands now, the trailering bar is contacting the yoke above the bearing surface so the engine is not tilted up as far as it should be.

The trailering bar should be inserted with the two prongs in the first and third holes of the LEFT side transom clamp. The single prong inserts into the outer hole of the RIGHT transom clamp. Use a cotter pin or a quick clip through the prong hole to keep the bar from slipping out while trailering. If your bar does NOT have the second pin, then the weld broke or it is a junk home made. Have a second pin welded on at the correct angle to ensure that the bar itself contacts the two thrust pads.

The two prongs keep the bar from rotation and keep it located on the two thrust surfaces of the engine yoke. You should see at least double the engine height off the ground.

Alternatively, you can use the outer holes and use a couple of screw clamps to hold the bar to the pads temporarily..

You can also make a trailering bar out of a piece of 1 1/2 inch square tubing and some 1/2 inch steel rod.

 

[jerryjerry05]

When you install the T/T system.
Make sure you install the thrust bracket.
It fits on the inside of the swivel bracket (with the grease fittings)
It's a stainless piece that the trim piston pushes on when you trim up.
If you don't have it, it will chew up the soft aluminum on the swivel bracket.
I have one if you can't find it. Send me a PM.

 

[Frank79]

Yeah, my transom saver bar does NOT have the 2 prongs on one side, it never did. Nothing broke off of it and as far back as I can remember this was the only bar that came with the boat back in 1984. The boat has no trim

 

[jerryjerry05]

They made 2 kinds.
One like yours and one like mine.

Your was set so it would lock onto the motor lock down.

 

[Frank Acampora]

OK! You then probably have the trailering bar that you bend slightly to fit into the inside of transom clamp holes. If this is the case, insert it into the furthest holes out from the transom. Unlock the reverse lock and lift the engine. As you are lowering the engine set the bar on the thrust pads. Then lock the reverse lock. Bouncing can cause the engine to release and drop so with this bar use a couple of bungees to hold it solidly to the trailering bar.

This is not a very good piece of engineering so if you are going to do any decent amount of trailering either find the multiplle pin type on the auctions or buy a real transom saver that attaches to the trailer.

 

[Frank79]

Surprisingly, the tow bar is a little thicker on the left side. The hole which is also on the left and closest to the transom is bored bigger so the tow bar can slide into it. Then the straight bar slides right thru. There simply isn't another position to mount it higher which is crazy

 

[Frank79]

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[Frank79]

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[Frank79]

Guys, please let me know if I'm properly putting the photos up and you can see them. Also, my pivot bolt on the left side broke due to age. So I can't keep the engine tilted all the way up for putting it in the water and taking it out. Had to pay 26 bucks for a stock bolt and now needs a heli coil kit. Sound about right on price?

 

[Frank Acampora]

Yeah, they want your first born son for new parts. I have had pivot bolts strip. Rather than replace with new and a heli-coil, I tapped the hole for a 3/8 bolt. I ground the head of the bolt down for clearance. Your photos are clear but I still can not make out the trailering bar and how it attaches. It does look thicker than 1/2 inch though. Perhaps you can remove it and take a photo or lacking that tilt he engine all the way up and take a photo between the transom clamps.

 

[Frank79]

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