High throttle bog

BigJason

Recruit
Joined
Jul 28, 2015
Messages
4
Hello all been reading over many post because I just bought my first boat. 1973 higgs craft with a 70hp chrylser. My problem first arouse about the 4th time we took it out , it bogs loses power at full throttle. Took it to a local boat guy had the entire lower end rebuilt water pump bearings seals etc..took it out same day i got it back ran decent next time out ran full throttle all day long no bogs. This last weekend took it out and bogged agian (pissin me off). Changed fuel lines bulb rebuilt fuel pump dumped all fuel. Tokk it out still had a bog at full throttle comes and goes...yesterday i took the cylinders cover off looking for a thermostat dont see one anywhere...ordered carb rebuild kits from here waitin for them to show up...i feel like it has to be a simple fix i been researching for all kinds of fixes...never done carbs before but im a maintenance man for a living and always have done stuff like it...oh my compression from when i was at mechanic was 130 140 and 150...any help or feedback would be appreciated. ..
 

BigJason

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Joined
Jul 28, 2015
Messages
4
Little update..carborater kits came in gonna work on it this weekend. Popped the flywheel off yesterday(belt snapped in process) gonna clean stator and work on getting belt back on tonight.
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
When you replace the flywheel torque the nut to 95 foot pounds.You will need to remove the stator to install a new belt. When you replace the distributor belt do not get it too tight.Believe it or not, too tight will cause shifting problems. The distributor is held by two bolts, one in a slot for belt adjustment. Snug the other just enough so you can pivot the distributor. Set the flywheel to top dead center on the block pointer. Now, turn the distributor so that the curved line in the pulley matches the curve of the flywheel and the straight line points directly in at the flywheel. Move the distributor body until the belt is just snug. Correct tightness is thus. A .010 feeler gauge pressed in the center of the belt like a finger should deflect the belt about 1/8 to 3/16 inch before bending. Timing should be 30 or 32 degrees BTDC at wide open throttle.

You do not need a timing light and the engine need not be running. Put the control handle in wide open throttle position and turn the ignition key on. Remove the top plug and ground it. Turn the flywheel by hand slowly. As the flywheel comes up to 32 degrees BTDC, the plug should spark.. The block pointer may have a number of lines on it. The large line is TDC. The flywheel will have a 36 degree line. 32 degrees is four small lines to the left of the large line.

Points should be set to .010 open on a high lobe. High speed "bogging will not be the ignition or CD box. Their mode of failure is complete loss of spark. It is difficult to diagnose but I would guess that it is a fuel problem. Floats set too low could be part of the problem. They need to be even with the carb casting when inverted. There is also the possibility that the inlet seats have swelled a bit restricting fuel flow.

Remove the fuel pump and check that the impulse hole in the large portion (first stage) is not clogged. Remove the impulse hose from the bottom cylinder and be sure it is clean and has no leaks. be certain the fittings are also not clogged. When you rebuilt the fuel pump did this include a new diaphragm AND gasket? Did you replace the button (check) valves if needed? If so, did you install them the correct direction?

At the top of the forum (sticky) watch the video on synchronizing carbs and timing. It is important to get it correct
 
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BigJason

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Joined
Jul 28, 2015
Messages
4
Hey Frank thanks for the response...read abunch of your post toom me 4 stores to find my belt in stock finally found it bought 2. Cleaned flywheel and stator got it all put together just now. Installed a inline fuel filter. Took me abit to get the timing right and i noticed it already had few marks on it so alil messing around and reading your sticky helped alot although i feel it could prolly be alil more excat but so far im happy she fir3d up and ran for abit. On the fuel pump it came with a diaphragm gasket and orings for the inlets. The inlets are pressed and i didnt want to mess those up...Saturday i plan on doing the carb rebuild...i will take some pictures tomorrow to post. I felt from the start it was a fuel problem ive checked the gas tank pick up filter and seems pretty good but maybe just change it. Id really like to get this old beast to running as best as she can. Before bogg outs she cruises real nice and family enjoys it but we feel that bog and my heart just sinks.
 

BigJason

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Joined
Jul 28, 2015
Messages
4
Tried to upload some pictures lastnight but I kept getting an error. Let the carborater rebuild begin!
 
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