KAD44P-B stopped, won't prime

k_im

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Nov 14, 2013
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Hi Folks,

My 44 just stopped running, as though it had been turned off. I have since replaced both the fuel filter and the prefilter and I'm working from a jerry can of clean fuel (eliminating dirt in the tank as a possibility I believe) I have spent several fruitless hours trying to prime the injectors without success.

I get only a small, low pressure flow to injectors 5 & 6, nothing to the others.
I get a small flow through the return line, I'm not sure if my lift pump is delivering enough fuel
The high pressure side of the injector pump is apparently doing nothing

The boat has had electrical/electronic problems in the past (my volvo mechanic believe the engine compartment may have been submerged in its previous life)
The engine would't crank or shift into neutral and it took many expensive hours and phone calls to Volvo HQ back east to sort the problem out. The mechanic warned that the problems could happen again.
Is it possible that some corrosion issue has caused the EDC to send a zero output to the fuel quantity actuator?
The only fault code is 5:3 indicating an out of range voltage to the compressor ( I think, because the manual supplied with the engine doesn't list it)

Does anything sound familiar? My greatest fear is a failed injector pump but before throwing big bucks at the problem I want to make sure I haven't missed something.

Kim
 

alldodge

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40,740
Hi Folks,

My 44 just stopped running, as though it had been turned off. I have since replaced both the fuel filter and the prefilter and I'm working from a jerry can of clean fuel (eliminating dirt in the tank as a possibility I believe) I have spent several fruitless hours trying to prime the injectors without success.

I get only a small, low pressure flow to injectors 5 & 6, nothing to the others.
I get a small flow through the return line, I'm not sure if my lift pump is delivering enough fuel
The high pressure side of the injector pump is apparently doing nothing

The boat has had electrical/electronic problems in the past (my volvo mechanic believe the engine compartment may have been submerged in its previous life)
The engine would't crank or shift into neutral and it took many expensive hours and phone calls to Volvo HQ back east to sort the problem out. The mechanic warned that the problems could happen again.
Is it possible that some corrosion issue has caused the EDC to send a zero output to the fuel quantity actuator?
The only fault code is 5:3 indicating an out of range voltage to the compressor ( I think, because the manual supplied with the engine doesn't list it)

Does anything sound familiar? My greatest fear is a failed injector pump but before throwing big bucks at the problem I want to make sure I haven't missed something.

Kim

:welcome: to iboats Kim

A diesel that just shuts off like turning the key off in most all cases is fuel related. It could be the injection pump but most time there will be other signs prior to it going out. The feed pump (part number 3582310) should be putting out 30-50Kpa (4.3 to 7 psi).

Can you bleed all the air out of the lines leading to the injection pump using the hand pump?
Was there anything abnormal which was happening prior to the engine dyeing?
 

k_im

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Nov 14, 2013
Messages
5
Thanks for replying, AllDodge.

To answer your last question first, I didn't notice anything unusual before the engine stopped. we were on plane making 22 knots and then...silence.

I have been able to bleed out the air in the system, I've gotten to the point where I'm cranking the engine and feeding the return into a clear plastic container. With the return hose submerged, there are no bubbles.
 

alldodge

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Sorry it takes a while to get back with, iboats doesn't notify of a reply, we have to go look.

Do you know if you have power going to your fuel shut-off control, and is it working?
 

k_im

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Nov 14, 2013
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No worries.


The fuel shut off solenoid was badly corroded (so much so that it fell apart when removed) I replaced it with a new one. It clicks when 12v is applied directly. I haven't yet had a partner available to check with a voltmeter to see how it operates while cranking or in the "run" position.
It seems to work in reverse, there is a spring that sits in the pump that looks like it holds the plunger on the open position when the solenoid isn't energized. Neither the old or the new unit had any kind of internal spring to cause it to fail closed.
 

alldodge

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No expert, but a fuel shut off valve to not fail closed sounds dangerous. If it failed you couldn't shut the engine off. Either way this sounds like an electrical issue and not a injection pump problem. You need some physical help on board to troubleshoot. You could apply power to the fuel control and then try cranking it over. If you do try this put a fuse in line so if something else is wrong it won't burn something up
 

rbh

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Mar 21, 2009
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Diesels can be a PITA when things go wrong.
First does the lift pump pull fuel from the tank, Does the fuel shut off solenoid work (you should be able to hear it click key on/off), is there an air leak in the system allowing air to be pulled in instead of fuel.

Once your filters are full does the hand primer pull/push to the injector fuel pump.
If there is air anywhere in the system its got to be pushed out.

Injector pump is usually the last thing that will go wrong.
 

k_im

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Nov 14, 2013
Messages
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I did test the operation of the fuel shutoff with a partner. Zero voltage with the key in the on position and a brief flash of power when Buddy turned the switch to the stop position. I did find a 40 series electrical manual on line that confirms that the solenoid energizes when shutting off the fuel supply. Took the connectors of the ECD unit and pump and cleaned them up, didn't make a difference. Does anyone know a test procedure for checking a potentiometer?
 

rbh

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Solenoids should open when keyed on (Hot) elecro magnet principle.
If you got a brief electrical spike when you keyed off it sounds like a switch issue (intermittent power), try wiggling the key when in the on position.
 

alldodge

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Sounds to me like either your key switch is bad or you have some bad wiring going to and from the solenoid. Agree with rbh, solenoids should open when power is applied.
 

Sea Stomper

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Nov 9, 2010
Messages
158
The shutoff solenoid is powered ON to shut the engine off. It fails and relaxes to the run position, so his switch is operating correctly.

If you can confirm that the injection pump is being fed properly without any air and with the correct pressure with no fuel restriction and no return restriction, then the only thing left is the injection pump. Just make sure the injection pump drive gear is rotating which it probably is. If it's not, then you could have a broken camshaft which can be confirmed by removing the rocker lever covers and watching for all of the rockers operating. That scenario is not likely but I have seen it happen. More likely it is the injection pump but sounds like you are doing a good job troubleshooting it from the steps you have taken.
 
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k_im

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Nov 14, 2013
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Thanks for your input folks, I'm still plugging away at it. I've been able to download some service manuals (unfortunately the EDC manual was only available in Swedish, but I can understand the impedence values) I tested some of the sending units etc without finding anything glaringly wrong. One bit of solid info: I learned the proper way to erase fault codes (for some reason my owners manual gave a procedure that didn't work) So, starting code free, every time I would re and re a connector for testing/cleaning/inspection, the EDC threw a code, which subsequently cleared. So the computer is monitoring the system just fine, debunking my theory that I was somehow shut down by the computer. So I'm back to looking for a mechanical cause.
 
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