1983 Formula Alpha one GEN 1 advice, prop not spinning in forward or reverse

Crisco72

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I am stuck with this project and looking for advice.
1983 Formula Thunderbird 23ft with the Mercruiser 260 and PRE-Alpha One drive. It is the one with fins on the top sides and a lifting hook on the top cap.

The back story is a few years ago I was at Jackson lake with the family, the 9 year old fell of the tube, and in my haste to go back for him I pulled a hard left turn. After that the boat lost forward and reverse. I turned the engine off, jumped in the water and checked to see if maybe it spun the prop hub. I had someone put the lever in forward, then reverse and both ways the prop just spun.

I did some research and expected a coupling and parked the boat, since the prop shaft turned with the prop.

Fast forward to this weekend. I pulled the drive after putting it in forward, hung the drive from my lift and drained the oil.

Here is the cliff notes of where I am at.
The shift cable feels firm at the throttle lever and moves back and forth on the bracket behind the motor.
Pulled the prop, pulled the drive, and hung it from my lift to drain the oil.
Oil that came out was dark, but no water or metal.
I pulled the top cap before I drained it, it had oil up top. Gears looked fine.
The shift rod moves, in one direction I can turn the prop one way, but it feels like a racheting is going on when I spin the other way.
Move the shift rod the other way and the prop rachets the other direction but is firm the other way. If I grab the prop and turn it the input shaft and CV joint turns. This works both ways.
I looked through the gimbal with a flashlight at the coupler. It's intact, rubber is solid and there wasn't any rubber dust around the back of the motor.
When it happened at the lake I don't remember if it got hot or not. It was the first time I have had an issue on the water,

So at this point I have a few questions.
I do plan on pulling the lower and replacing the impeller since I am this far into it, but am not sure where to go next to make sure it's all good. I don't have a lake close by to drag it to for a test run just to find out it has other problems.
I do have muffs, but I want to drain the fuel and possibly rebuild the carb before I fire it back up.

How do I make sure the lower shift linkage is working?
Is it possible the shift cable appears to work fine but doesn't, and can that problem suddenly happen or is it gradual?
Should I replace the impeller, put the drive back on, put new fuel in it and start it with the muffs on and see what happens?
I do have another stainless prop I could put on even though the hub looks ok.

One of the things I am confused by is how the shift mechanism works in the drive. Not internally, but the part on the end of the cable that comes through the gimbal.
The lower has a rod that turns at the top for forward, neutral and reverse, but it doesn't make sense how the metal part on the end of the cable moves it.

What should I do next?
 
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alldodge

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I turned the engine off, jumped in the water and checked to see if maybe it spun the prop hub. I had someone put the lever in forward, then reverse and both ways the prop just spun.

Your in the water and you saw to prop spin in both directions?
Please clarify what and how you saw this?

The shift rod moves, in one direction I can turn the prop one way, but it feels like a racheting is going on when I spin the other way.
Move the shift rod the other way and the prop rachets the other direction but is firm the other way. If I grab the prop and turn it the input shaft and CV joint turns. This works both ways.

If shift foot is facing forward the prop should ratchet CW and lock in CCW
If the shift foot is turn to the right (I think) the prop should ratchet CCW and lock in CW
 

Crisco72

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Your in the water and you saw to prop spin in both directions?
Please clarify what and how you saw this?



If shift foot is facing forward the prop should ratchet CW and lock in CCW
If the shift foot is turn to the right (I think) the prop should ratchet CCW and lock in CW

I was in the water turning the prop by hand. With the engine off, and in forward then reverse. Both options the prop spun freely by hand.

As for the second part, so it's normal for it to ratchet one way but not the other and then vice versa when you switch from forward to reverse?
 

alldodge

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I was in the water turning the prop by hand. With the engine off, and in forward then reverse. Both options the prop spun freely by hand.

That shouldn't happen

As for the second part, so it's normal for it to ratchet one way but not the other and then vice versa when you switch from forward to reverse?

Yes
 

Crisco72

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Here is where I am at. I split the drive. Everything looked fine. I took some videos of the shifting mechanism and showed them to the guy at the shop where I bought the impeller kit. He said everything looked fine.
So I went ahead and replaced the impeller, and housing. Put the drive back together. Made a pressure tester. Hooked up to a bike pump, screwed it into the drain.
When I try to pump it up, the air comes out from the water hole on the drive mounting face. The drive is put back together and hanging in the garage, not on the boat.
The kit came with several gaskets and O-rings. I matched up the gaskets and metal plate with what I pulled off, and put a large O-ring on the bottom pump housing. Also the large fat rubber thing on the drive shaft over the pump. I don't have an O-ring groove on the top by the splines like some diagrams show.
I cleaned the brass water tube, put some oil on it and stuck in the upper before bolting it back together. Everything feels like it went together fine.

Did I miss an O-ring somewhere?
The only things I noticed besides the old impeller being toast was the brass tube has a very slight kink in it. Just a slight bulge on one side. The other thing is when I pulled the drive apart, there metal chunks around the pump housing. They looked pretty old and crusty, stuck to a magnet, 3-4 pieces about the size of a pencil eraser. I figured since they were crusty maybe they were from a previous repair.

Now that I have done some more research once I get it to hold pressure, I can put it back on the boat and check the shift foot engagement.

I also haven't had the boat in the water for a while, so I plan on using an electric fuel pump hooked to the carb feed line to drain the tank. Would it be a good idea to rebuild the carb or just try it with fresh gas and some fuel treatment like seafoam?
 

alldodge

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When I try to pump it up, the air comes out from the water hole on the drive mounting face.

Think you have a seal incorrectly installed probably in the pump housing. Maybe Bt Doctur has a better idea. Also need a pressure gauge on the drive because you don't want to get the pressure above 15 psi

there metal chunks around the pump housing. They looked pretty old and crusty, stuck to a magnet, 3-4 pieces about the size of a pencil eraser.

I also haven't had the boat in the water for a while, so I plan on using an electric fuel pump hooked to the carb feed line to drain the tank. Would it be a good idea to rebuild the carb or just try it with fresh gas and some fuel treatment like seafoam?

You wont be able to draw fuel out the carb thru the boats fuel pump, can do it thru the tank connection. Draw a little out and see what it looks and smells like. Don't use seafoam crab, that stuff will not help your issue. Seafoam is naphtha, Alcohol and machine oil.

If gas turns out to be bad, then take the carb top off and have a look. Many times the gas just evaporates, but if you find crud then rebuild
 

Crisco72

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Think you have a seal incorrectly installed probably in the pump housing. Maybe Bt Doctur has a better idea. Also need a pressure gauge on the drive because you don't want to get the pressure above 15 psi

I should have taken a picture but I have a brass T with a ball valve connected to a tire valve. It has a gauge on it. The other side has a barb fitting connected to the oil fill hose that I screwed into the drain. It never even registered on the gauge. Every time I pumped the bike pump I heard air coming out of the water transfer hole.




You wont be able to draw fuel out the carb thru the boats fuel pump, can do it thru the tank connection. Draw a little out and see what it looks and smells like. Don't use seafoam crab, that stuff will not help your issue. Seafoam is naphtha, Alcohol and machine oil.

I wasn't going to draw fuel out of the carb with the electric pump. I was going to pull the old gas out of the fuel tank. Last time I got fuel was at a gas station, so 10% ethanol at least.

If gas turns out to be bad, then take the carb top off and have a look. Many times the gas just evaporates, but if you find crud then rebuild

I hate ethanol. I have 2 gas stations that sell pure gas. One is at the airport. 4.29 a gallon, The other is 100 miles away. It has done "wonders" for my riding mower, and other small engines.
 
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