12 volt electrical filter, is there something like this?

[joetheis]

Long, long story short. Here is the $.50 version...................................
I want to put the 12 power from my battery, (when the motor is off) and / the voltage from my O.B. (when the motor is running), (I KNOW, there is only 12 volts coming from my batteries when the motor is OFF, but it's the same circuit to my acc. switch at the dash, so....) and run it through a "filter" (kinda like the U.P.S. system, when there is a generator, so it's a nice steady voltage/ sign wave coming out to the computers), on my boat, so if it 13.8 volts IN, it's a nice 12 volts OUT
Or, have I just spent too much time in the sun?
Joe

 

[bruceb58]

I am curious why you are worried abut this. Almost everything works with a range of voltage from 11V to 18V.

 

[dingbat]

Most, if not all electronics filter/ regulate the input power independent of the source.Reason why most can operate at a wide range of input voltages

 

[Silvertip]

If whatever device you intend to use on your boat requires a 12 volt DC power supply then hook it up and pop an adult beverage. You are worried about a problem that doesn't exist. Besides, a 12 volt battery is really 12.6 volts and the charging system is 13.5 to about 14.5 volts and is well regulated. Your 12 volt device is designed to operate in that range with room to spare. You run more of a risk using an AC adapter at home from a power surge during a summer storm. You are not looking for a filter, you are looking for a regulator. And you don't want a nice 12 volt DC sine wave because that hasn't been invented yet. Sine wave is what AC power is. If you are indeed talking about using the AC brick for your computer which requires 120 volts AC in then it's an iniverter you need. 12 volts in and 120 AC out. If that's the case, then it's the inverter that gets connected to the 12 volt system in the boat and the quality of the AC output will depend on the quality of the inverter.

 

[joetheis]

Here is the long story short.....
I installed a RayMarine Dragon Fly on my boat in April.
Had it out, would quit?, unplug wait a while, re-plug, would work, etc....
I checked, rechecked, replaced connections I THOUGHT might be bad, (it's on the same circuit as my Lowrance and AM?FM radio, the same blade connector as my Lowrance, (that is working great).
Pulled it and sent it back....
Get a complete new set up, puck wiring, mount, etc. (repair order said Hardware problem)
Install it.
Worked fine for a while, then quit.........
Maybe, just maybe the outboard is spiking voltage at times? (volt meter reads 14 volts when I look down), (I know I grabbing at straws).
I have a new rectifier for the outboard, but thought, either a battery JUST for those, or a filter to "bleed off extra voltage.
If it still craps the bed, then a "Nasty Customer Voice" has to come out and a call to Ray Marine..........
Joe
Joe

 

[Silvertip]

Use a good quality hand held voltmeter attached to the battery to monitor it for the problem. Regardless, your electronics should be able to handle well over 14 volts. Are you sure the unit shuts down when running, or does it shut down when you start the engine. There is both high and low voltage protection on most electronics. When cranking, voltage can drop quite low. If the unit drops out when running, then try a separate battery. I'm betting this is a unit problem and not a charging issue. What you may also try is to turn on everything electrical while under way and see if the unit quite. The extra load may hold down the charging voltage so you would be able tell if that's the issue.

 

[dingbat]

The input voltage range on those units is 10.x to 31.x volts which blows your over voltage theory out the window.

What do you mean by "tear it out"? A flush mount installation w/o proper ventilation can send them over the edge.
Have you checked to make sure your not getting any AC through your rectifier?

Then again, the British are pretty good at making ale. Not so good at electrical design....

 

[joetheis]

Well, this weekend my Lowrance sheet the bed!!??
It'll go to the start up screen and nothing, just stay there, won't even turn off.
Was working 2 weeks ago when I was out????!!!
I replaced the rectifer on the outboard Saturday A.M., as well as, wired in a separate battery for just the 2 new finders..................
I went to West Marine on the way home to lookie at what they had in just chart plotters, (thinking I'd use my Ray marine as a fish finder only).
Was talking to the salesman who seemed to know quite a bit.
We got to chatting about my on going problem and he told me "pre-1995 outboards will put out spikes up to 18 volts. These new finders can't handle this", and poof, we have what I have been experiencing.
(In April Ray Marine blew- Hardware issue is what they said, the Lowrance seemed to work. Last few weeks the Ray Marine would shut off at odd times.....).
Makes sense...........................
After '95 they put out 13.5 volts, (which is what my buddy is complaining about on hios '95 -90 HP 4 banger).
My volt gauge is correct, as I used a GOOD multi meter on the battery for a day on the water.
At times I'd get 13, others 16 volts, no 18 like I had a few times prior to the rectifer replace.
Maybe it's just the '91 "rude 70 I have, maybe it's I was bad in another life, but for some reason, anything silicone in it gives me trouble!
I guess I'm just analog man??!!
Joe

 

[ondarvr]

Your very knowledgable salesman doesn't know so much. It all depends on what motor you are talking about when you say pre 1995 motors aren't regulated (voltage regulator), the vast majority of motors had voltage regulators long before that, and there are still motors being made today that are unregulated.

Regulated motors typically put out somewhere between 14 and 14.5 volts, you need voltage that high for the battery to charge correctly. Unlregulated motors don't typically go higher than 17 volts, and don't get that high very often. Elecrical components can normally handle these voltages just fine, or shut off when the voltage gets out of range with no harm done. I used my Lowrance and various other electronics on an unregulated system for years and had no problems. Without more details I would expect that motor to have a voltage regulator, but not all models had them. You can add one easily if you want to, either an OEM unit, or after market unit will work to limit the voltage to around 14.5

 

[joetheis]

He may or may not..............
The problem still is, I'm smoking my expensive fish finders, and yes, I'm grabbing at life lines to figure out why............
The battery just for the finders should cure it, but IMO, I've just put a band aide on it, I'd like to find out WHY this is happening.
Might just be a faulty rectifer on the O.B. (replaced), or..........
It's not connections, batteries (I have a switch for 2 deep cycle fairly new batteries).
They are charged up full before I get 'er wet, and I run my 55# trolling motor.
It doesn't seem to matter if I use batt. #1 or #2
Give me a head ache
Joe

 

[ondarvr]

The rectifier only changes it from AC to DC, the regulator controls the amount of voltage. So you need to get a voltage regulator if you want it lower, it should be in the 14 to 14.5 range with one.

 

[gm280]

I've read all the comments and this is an interesting read. While stators/alternators can and do present spikes, the rectifiers, regulators and batteries usually squelch such huge spikes. They are batteries but also help with controlling spikes as well, not eliminate them by any means but helps some. Kind of like a capacitor. So while there can be spikes, I can't see any fish finder being effected because of the regulation circuitry designed in them. I would say the first option would be to install an inline filter for such possible spikes. They are relatively cheap and do help. I honestly don't see an over voltage issue myself knowing how power control circuitry works on such devices. The huge range of acceptable voltages that such power control circuits can handle precludes an overvoltage problem in my opinion, especially in marine equipment usage. They are designed for such questionable wide possible ranges... JMHO!

 

[joetheis]

Ok, here is what I've found, (slow day at work most of my staff is off, so I'm "Screwin' da Pup" and net surfing)!!
My 1991 "rude 70, does not have a regulator, just a rectifer.
Once the battery is charged up, the voltage WILL creep up.
One site suggested running lights, radios, etc to "suck" the voltage down.
Problem is I replaced ALL my lights with LED, (less draw on a battery when I'm anchored). I do have my VHF and AM/FM radio though
The fish finders will shut off when too much voltage hits them, (this makes sense, as my Ray Marine will work for a while, (keep in the back of your head I've been charging my batteries ALL night prior to going out, so they are topped off).
My Lowrance is a program issue, (spent 45 minutes waiting to talk to a service guy when I called (1-800-628-4487)
Told me how to re set it,
1. pull map card
2. if plug in, unplug, then replug in
3 hold in + AND - buttons
4. press POWER button
5. while still holding + and - wait (like 45 seconds) for start screen to pop up.
Then it resets (if you do this you'll lose all your trails and stored data).
I was wondering IF one of my solar panel voltage regulators will work??
Maybe I'll wire in a old car headlight??
Joe

 

[gm280]

joe, if you have any electronic experience, I would go for an alternator regulator over most anything else if you want a good regulator that will hold up with most any current issue. You could also install such a regulator only on the accessories lines and not everything. But unless you understand such installs, I don't have any other option to suggest. Installing a headlight just doesn't seem quite right in my thinking... :noidea:

 

[joetheis]

Naaa, the head light was again, a life line in the dark!
But it would be cool to mount 2 BIG "Daylighter flood lights to the boat!!! Does that say "Redneck er what"!! :lol::facepalm:
I have a few old volt regulators for land cruisers I've done over laying @ the shop, I'm sure I could wire SOMETHING up, but, really I don't want to open THAT can of worms!
I feel the more electrical "things" in a boat, the more things to wrong at the wrong time.
Like I've stated, I have a battery (a nice jell deep cycle battery from Verizon. it's a good size for on the floor under the dash, 13"X 3 .5" X 5").
I made up a nice wooden box to store it in, I have a "Battery Tender" from one of my bikes hooked into it to top it off.
When I plug in the boat charger, I'll just plug the Tender in also.
The guy who suggested this has the same basic set up on his bass boat for what ever reason, and told me he charges his battery like 3 times a season.
I switch batteries each time I go out, now that I know WTF is happening, I may switch them each time before I fire the motor to avoid a boil of the battery, lookie at the volt gauge a bit more also.
Perhaps this is a sign..... get a new boat?? or at least a new(er) motor!
Any excuse is a GOOD one!
Joe
Why do odd things like this ALWAYS happen to me??

 

[ondarvr]

This isn't a huge insurmountable problem, just buy a stock voltage regulator for it, or a lower cost after market one, it's a simple bolt on job, 15 minutes or so depending on the exact one you buy.

 

[dingbat]

Sound like you need one of these... [h=1]Evinrude, Johnson/ OMC 0173640 - REGULATOR KIT V-4 V-6[/h]