Clean simple wiring for single battery system

ForkliftJeff

Cadet
Joined
Apr 20, 2013
Messages
6
I'm thinking of cleaning up my battery area in my 1992 Bayliner 1850 Capri with the 3.0L Mercruiser. Here is a picture of basically what it looks like. I know, I know. Disconnect the negative connections first. This is how it was when I bought it from my Dad a few years ago.
IMAG0577_zpsysuo1ls9.jpg


That battery finally died so I put in a new Interstate battery today while I was changing oils and filters getting it ready for the summer. Currently it has 3 pairs of wires going to it. Main power and ground, tilt pump motor, and stereo. Right now when I leave the boat, I remove the wires on the negative side to prevent any power drain while it is in storage or even while I'm towing it up to the lake. I would like to install a main battery connector ( http://www.elecdirect.com/product/b...ector-kits/4ga-175amp-grey-housing-2-contacts ) to make it easy to disconnect for removing the battery for charging or even just for normal battery isolation. Possibly even install a master battery disconnect switch, but considering the battery area is easy to access I might be ok with just the connectors. Here's a diagram of what I'm thinking of.
0F323A65-DCD0-4C97-BA88-9937A20C2542_zpsmzf7yyru.jpg


So I guess my question is this. Will the 175A battery connector handle enough amperage? I would think it should but just want to be sure. Also what do you think about the master disconnect idea? Mostly I just want that so that when I get the boat ready here at home, I just flip the switch to kill the power then flip it on once I get to the lake. Also to make it easy to kill the power when I leave the boat at the dock in case I forget the stereo on and also just for security reasons.

Any info is greatly appreciated.
 

duped

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 26, 2009
Messages
307
I would just add an on/off switch and forgo the non-marine rated connector you'd like to use. Sounds like just another corrosion/bad connection failure point. With the on/off switch, you would only have one positive going to the battery. The rest will go to the other position on the switch, so that helps "clean it up."
 

ForkliftJeff

Cadet
Joined
Apr 20, 2013
Messages
6
Ya that's a good point. I will just look into getting a switch. Any idea the amperage that it needs to handle?
 

duped

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 26, 2009
Messages
307
Just buy a Perko or Blue Seas on/off switch. I think they are rated for 200-250 amps so I wouldn't worry about them.
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,585
ForkliftJeff, unless you have plans to use a lot of current with many accessories, then your battery should be sufficient...
 

Fed

Commander
Joined
Apr 1, 2010
Messages
2,457
By design isolating switches cause problems. http://www.amplepower.com/primer/burnt_sw/index.html

Even the screw down ones are suspect in my book. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PROJECTA...AL-POST-ISOLATOR-CUT-OFF-SWITCH-/300824532025

Low voltage / high current is a recipe for high resistance faults at the best of times without adding extra places for them to occur.

Completely clean & vasoline all the parts and secure tightly.

Replace the wing nuts with proper SS Nyloc nuts and keep a small wrench in the boat.

Make sure your accessories cable has an inline fuse close to the battery.

Good idea using first & last with the negative, a lot of people forget about that.

It's no big effort to undo a nut, that's my 2 cents for what it's worth.
 
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