'89 Bayliner Trophy 2103 Where is....

Joined
May 16, 2015
Messages
18
I bought this boat a few weeks ago. I have been tinkering around finding things to fix and figuring out what is wrong. I have one cluster question, I don't know if these boats came with general shut offs or if this is aftermarket (I suspect). But I find 2 nice big batteries in the batter well with a lot of wires going around all manner of mess. I found 3 fusable links with 20amp in-line fuses in tact. The motors will crank/run, the trim on both motors work fine (one does leak down over time). But no other electrical works...no nav lights, no tachs, no fuel indicator, no running light, no light if there is supposed to be one in the windlass, and no bilge pump, one of my biggest worries. I checked all the fuses in the cluster in the console, all but one were good, one 15amp was blown. If whoever put in the general shut offs didn't wire a large part of a harness, is this the problem and where can I find that? What am I looking for? I can unscrew those big switches and pull them out to see. Any ideas? Ok, now for the nubie question, where is neutral? Can I wind up these engines without being in gear? Oh, one more thing, the Riptide on the spit will light up if I plug it into the power plug in on the bow...but I don't have any related foot or remote control so that is about it.
 
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Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,762
You are providing a lot of information about what you found but unfortunately what you find is of little help unless you are a bit more descriptive about what this stuff is connected to or what things actually look like. Pictures help immensely. However, here is some "general" information:

1) It is apparent you have two engines so it is logical you have two batteries, one for each engine.
2) You have a trolling motor so that should be powered by a separate deep cycle battery. It is possible that the prior owner decided to use one of the starting batteries for the troller but that's a good way to leave you with a dead starting battery.
3) You mention "big switches/general shut-offs" but you fail to describe them. If they are simple ON/OFF battery disconnects that's one thing. If they are dual battery switches (OFF/BAT 1/BOTH/BAT2) that's quite another. So what do you actually have? For us to help with these you need to trace what is connected to what and in detail. Remember, we can't see your boat.
4) Everything related to the boat electrics (gauges, lights, windlass, radio, etc) do not pass through the engine harness -- the console is powered directly from one of the batteries by a positive and negative wire feeding the fuse panel at the console. There should be a fuse or breaker in that positive lead within a foot of the battery. If that fuse or breaker is open nothing powered from the console will work. This is why the engines work ok but other electronics don't. They are simply on different circuits.
5) You say "no bilge pump". Does that mean there is no bilge pump or that the one you have doesn't work? See #4 above but bilge pumps are usually powered directly from the battery if they are automatic but it would still have a manual switch on the console. Again #4 above applies.
6) Nav lights -- see #4
7) Neutral is neutral. Forward-Neutral-Reverse on the handle. What you are apparently asking about is the fast idle (warm up lever). This can be one of three systems. 1) a lever on top of the control box 2) pull out (toward the center of the boat) on the throttle shift lever to disengage the shifter, then move the lever forward, or 3) push a button in the pivot portion of the lever to disengage the shifter and move the lever forward. Again -- we can be more helpful if you tell us what engines these are, age, and type of control box(es) you have (flush mount or recessed). A flush mount has the entire box mounted on the side panel or helm. Recessed boxes have only the throttle shift lever visible.
 
Joined
May 16, 2015
Messages
18
Silvertip, Thanks for the questions, my apologies for lack of info. I will provide some photos. I spent some time working on it today and found more information and questions. So I'll follow your guidance for responding.
1) It is apparent you have two engines, Yes, 2 Force 85hp.
2) You have a trolling motor so that should be powered by a separate deep cycle battery. It is possible that the prior owner decided to use one of the starting batteries for the troller but that's a good way to leave you with a dead starting battery. WELL not exactly. This Riptide is a 24 volt troller and requires 2 batteries. From investigation today, it appears that is what is set up - the two "can" run the trolling motor or individually start motors.
3) You mention "big switches/general shut-offs" but you fail to describe them. They are simple ON/OFF battery disconnects.
4) Found 4 in-line fuses within a foot of the batteries. There is no power on the fuse panel. All the fuses were good. But this was interesting, in 2 of them, they were hot both ways, that is on the + side my light tester lit, on the - side my light tester lit. Keep in mind, although I don't know if this has anything to do with it, the trolling motor is 24 not 12V.
5) The Bilge pumps are visible. I can see at least one, appears there may be a second. There is a manual switch on the console.
7) Neutral is neutral. Forward-Neutral-Reverse on the handle, yep, got that. What you are apparently asking about is the fast idle (warm up lever), EXACTLY. 2) pull out (toward the center of the boat) on the throttle shift lever to disengage the shifter, then move the lever forward MIGHT be an option, haven't tried just pulling out on the lever. My neighbor came over today, he couldn't see anything either. I'll give that a try. From your description, these would be duel flush mounted. There is no apparent switch, button, knob, just two black levers side by side.

I'm very appreciative of your response. I'll take some photos and see if it is more clear.
 
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Joined
May 16, 2015
Messages
18
Silvertip - Thanks. I finally had some time and spent it following wires. I found a non-connected ground and now my dash lights up almost completely, all but my horn works. I've tried to find where the wires for it go but no luck so far. No fuses are blown, but I'll figure it out...even found a pulled out inline connector on the bilge pump and that isn't an issue anymore. :)

BUT I still don't know where there is any kind of switch/knob/button that allows me to provide fast idle. All I have are the two side by side throttles. No buttons, no pull-outs, no nothing. Maybe made this way on purpose?:confused:
 
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