I'm working on a blank slate boat and have wiring questions

[home-boy]

I'm resto-modding a 22' StarCraft with a Chrysler 125 o/b and have wiring questions. I am ready to start cutting my new piece of teak for my dash and need to purchase the last of my goodies. I intend to use 2 batteries. So far I have a tach and a trim gauge. I plan to add a fuel gauge and possibly a voltmeter. I will add a few 12V outlets and maybe a couple of USB ports.

I am shopping for switches now and see several options. I know I need switches for:

1. bilge pump
2 nav lights
3. cabin lights
4. instrument lights

Any other must have switches?

How about a battery tester? Needed or a waste?

 

[alldodge]

I'm resto-modding a 22' StarCraft with a Chrysler 125 o/b and have wiring questions. I am ready to start cutting my new piece of teak for my dash and need to purchase the last of my goodies. I intend to use 2 batteries. So far I have a tach and a trim gauge. I plan to add a fuel gauge and possibly a voltmeter. I will add a few 12V outlets and maybe a couple of USB ports.

I am shopping for switches now and see several options. I know I need switches for:

1. bilge pump
2 nav lights
3. cabin lights
4. instrument lights

Any other must have switches?

How about a battery tester? Needed or a waste?

I like a voltmeter it lets you know the status of your battery and charging system.
As for other switches, add an spare just in case something comes up later

 

[gm280]

I like individual switches as well to separately control individual circuits, but with one master switch to make it simple when leaving the boat to turn off every type accessory with one flip of that switch. But that is just my opinion. Make sure each circuit has a fuse or breaker as protection too. And that reason is so if one individual circuit happens to short or pops the fuse/breaker, all the other circuits still operate. Don't skimp on boat wiring. If you have any serious problems while boating, there is no place to run too. You are in the boat for the situation. And I do like the gauges you selected and mentioned. It basically covers everything you really need! JMHO :thumb:

 

[lmuss53]

On my Sea Nymph build I got one of those panels of 6 switches with breakers in the dash and ran a 30 amp fused wire into the feed side of that, I put a grounding buss under the dash. Then I wired what I needed in and put the appropriate label on each switch. I have a bilge auto-override, nav/anchor (wired to the cranking battery), an accessory master for stereo, power outlets and GPS/Sonar, horn, and accessory lights.

On my cranking battery I have the auto bilge pump, big motor and Nav/Anchor lights, nothing else. On a second battery I have stereo, vhf, GPS/Sonar, two 12 volt accessory outlets, and accessory lighting. The two batteries are connected or seperated by a Perko switch so I can combine them to charge both and isolate them so the accessories don't run the starting battery down. I can also turn the switch to OFF and remove everything from both batteries. I combine the batteries and top them off after each trip with a 2/10 amp Schumacher smart charger.

On a pair of group 29 batteries I have the trolling motor and a second manual only bilge pump with 8 feet of hose that can be dropped into the bilge for an emergency or over the side for washdown or to fill the bait tank. The group 29s are on a two bank 10 amp BPS onboard charger.

I have one gauge, a tach. time and volts are displayed on the GPS/Sonar. I have a spot left on the dash and I plan to add a tilt/trim gauge. Gas gauge is a piece of broom handle. If I go on bigger water I carry a spare 6 gallon tank for backup and for the 5hp kicker.

 

[wrench 3]

I'm not a fan of illuminated switches. There mite be better brands but the ones on my boat are too bright when your trying to navigate at night. That leaves you with
Single pole, single throw - SPST
Single pole, double throw - SPDT
Double pole, double throw - DPDT
Which also come in momentary contact versions. The only thing you're likely to need a momentary contact switch for is the horn. this would be a SPST and either a push button or a toggle switch depending on your preference.
The bilge pump can be a SPST for a manual switch or as a manual override to a float switch. If you wish to select between OFF, MANUAL, and AUTOMATIC you will need a SPDT.
The nav lights need a DPDT with the feed going to both center terminals, the mooring light will go to one terminal on each end while the remaining nav lights will go to the unused terminal one only one end.
The cabin and instrument lights can use SPST switches.
As for a batter tester, I just turn the key on and see how much voltage I have left.

 

[GA_Boater]

I agree with wrench about illuminated switches, most are too bright at night. One light I do like is one for the auto bilge pump so I know if it kicks on.

 

[wrench 3]

One light I do like is one for the auto bilge pump so I know if it kicks on.

Canadian coast guard regulations require such a light to be installed on all new boats. But I don't believe that they have to be retro fitted. I did add one to mine. It's nice to know that you have a major leak before it overruns the pump.

 

[GA_Boater]

Canadian coast guard regulations require such a light to be installed on all new boats. But I don't believe that they have to be retro fitted. I did add one to mine. It's nice to know that you have a major leak before it overruns the pump.

I don't know if USCG has the same requirement for new construction, but a warning light on the dash is better than water squishing between the toes as a first alarm. Besides the light tells me to flip the switch for the big pump. Knock on wood, no need so far.

 

[home-boy]

Anyone have experience with Sea Dog panels?

 

[gm280]

A good solution to illuminate toggle or rocker switches being too bright is, if those switches has separate circuits for the actual lights, and most do, then you can install a dimmer switch or variable knob to adjust the panel lights at night, like cars have. There are always ways to fix most any problem. Just be creative and think...

 

[roscoe]

How about a water pressure gauge?

I put a switch on my gauge lights, so at least I have the option of turning them off to prevent the night blindness.
.

 

[home-boy]

I am having trouble locating a water pressure gauge that matches all my other gauges. I can find water temp gauges. I could add this gauge and a pee tube

 

[gm280]

Here is my .02 cents of both pressure and temperature water gauges. On pressure gauges, knowing the pressure has absolutely nothing to do with the cooling system is working properly. A totally clogged or even a partially plugged up water passage will still show water pressure so what will it really tell you? Second a water or even a head temperature gauge will tell you the temp and IF you manage to glance at it per chance and it is high, then you might shut down the engine and save it. However most of the time, those gauges never get even glanced at while boating and when a problem does shows up, it is already too late... I good pee tale is about the best one can do in my opinion. Gauges look cool, but honestly rarely get checked before an issue shows up. And then it is too late... If you are traveling along and just happen to see a temp gauge pegged or even very high, it is too late. Damage is already done! JMHO!

 

[lmuss53]

I agree with gm280 on water pressure and temp gauges. Check your overheat alarm per the factory instructions every spring and trust that. If it goes off don't run the motor, get towed in and check out the problem.

You got me inspired so I checked the tilt sensor switch on my 70 hp Johnny to make sure it was working and ordered a tilt trim/gauge today, I'll have all the holes in my dash filled next week. Yahoo!