1993 Sport Craft Avanza Volvo 4.3L (chevy engine) DP outdrive. Two problems or one?

[RandyJ]

This bugger has been giving me fits ever since I recovered it after it sunk in a rain storm. My neighbor hired me to do the recovery. Just the nose was sticking up out of the water. Insurance paid him off and I got the boat for my labor. One electrical issue after another...for 4 years.... Trim quit working but got it so that I hear a clicking noise, not a single click. The fuse on the starter had become a problem so when I eliminated that fuse the down button started working fine and the up makes the clicking noise. BUT... if I depress both the up tilt and trim the outdrive will go up.
.... Second issue is the ignition. I cranked it a couple of days ago with zero problem starting right up. Now when I try to crank it it just spins over till I release the key. When I release the key it acts like it is trying to hit and run/start. I'm guessing a bad switch or bad connection at the starter solenoid...

Anybody got clues or suggestions? I can't tell if the trim and ignition switch issue are related or not...

 

[alldodge]

This bugger has been giving me fits ever since I recovered it after it sunk in a rain storm. My neighbor hired me to do the recovery. Just the nose was sticking up out of the water. Insurance paid him off and I got the boat for my labor. One electrical issue after another...for 4 years.... Trim quit working but got it so that I hear a clicking noise, not a single click. The fuse on the starter had become a problem so when I eliminated that fuse the down button started working fine and the up makes the clicking noise. BUT... if I depress both the up tilt and trim the outdrive will go up.
.... Second issue is the ignition. I cranked it a couple of days ago with zero problem starting right up. Now when I try to crank it it just spins over till I release the key. When I release the key it acts like it is trying to hit and run/start. I'm guessing a bad switch or bad connection at the starter solenoid...

Anybody got clues or suggestions? I can't tell if the trim and ignition switch issue are related or not...

Replace the trim relays
Need the starter replaced/rebuilt

IMO there are only two ways to fix electrical issues with a sunken boat, especially if its salt:
Replace wiring harness throughout and all electrical components, or remove all harnesses, soak, clean and put in a box with a heat source for a week, and replace all electrical components.

 

[RandyJ]

Thanks ALL DODGE.... pretty much what we've done a piece at a time. Last year we replaced the trim motor and starter, rebuilt one trim cylinder. I had a new switch in stock so just put that on and will have to order the relays. It has two at the motor and two under the dash or whatever you call it (helm?) on a boat. I'm betting I end up having to replace the position sensor and limit switch too before its all over with but then what else would you expect from a 22 year old boat that has been sunk even if it is pretty near the cleanest water in the USA, no salt... On top of all this I have upholstery work to do too and this baby will be getting a new home shortly... but it is a very nice looking ski boat and easy on the gas.
If I can find a parts diagram with part numbers it would surely help...

 

[wrench 3]

To start off with I'd just like to say that a free boat usually ends up being pretty expensive.
If you wanted to tackle the starter yourself. The problem sounds like the drive sticking on the shaft. Probably rust. If you clean the splines on the shaft, install a new drive and make sure every thing else in there is clean you should be fine.
For safety's sake I hope your "replacing" the fuse at the starter.

 

[RandyJ]

hmmm... not sure how this got off onto the starter. The starter is working fine... it's the switch and the trim that have been the problem. It cranks over perfectly.... and yep, I'll bite the bullet and replace that EXPENSIVE fuse.... I think it's a 50 Amp... unless somebody can give me a less expensive fix...

 

[RandyJ]

Finally got around to tinkering with it again. Trim is working fine with new relays. Now the problem is that it's not getting fire. I've got 12 volts to the coil, replaced coil and still no fire. The points and condenser should be fine since I replaced them new 2 years ago and have hardly run the boat but a few hours. I replaced the ignition switch and all seems okay there. Got any tips of what to look for or where to look or tests I can do to eliminate or confirm possible other problems? I don't know for sure what kind of distributor was in it originally but the local big shot marina replaced it with a Mallory 9-26107 distributor. I called around and got part numbers for the individual tune up parts so can now order kits or parts for that distributor. Really need to get this baby straightened out so I can sell it and won't have to worry with it any more. Nice boat but I don't need it...

 

[wrench 3]

If it's been sitting for a while, try cleaning the points with sand paper and lint free cloth. The contacts tend to oxidize when not in use.

 

[RandyJ]

I've been so busy that I just haven't gotten around to working on my own boat and kind of need it running pretty quick. I work on the lake and need to keep good water transportation available. We have it cranking fine and all the bugs worked out of the trim. No big problem starting but dies if I give it too much throttle too quick. Last season it was running fine then just got bad, then worse. Not much I haven't done to this boat or engine to get it going and keep everything running. The way it's acting it is very difficult to decide whether the problem is in the coil, distributor, or carburetor.... not even sure where to start.

 

[wrench 3]

If you take the wire off of one of the spark plugs, put a screw driver (with a good plastic handle) into the wire end, hold the screw driver blade 3/8" away from metal on the engine and start the engine. You should have a good solid spark jumping the gap. Of cause if you have a spark tester you could use that. If the spark is good, check the ignition timing. Late timing could give your symptoms. If the timing is OK, you most likely have a carburetor problem.