Dual Battery

[Chemdawg]

Now that I'm going to be spending a lot more time on Lake Michigan, I decided I wanted to run a 2nd battery in my boat. I have a 4.5hp kicker motor, that will be used for trolling, while the main engine is shut down.

I ordered a blue sea battery switch, and 25 feet of 3/0 battery cable. The battery in there right now is a marine battery, but I will be purchasing a marine deep cycle battery to use for the 2nd.

So here is my question. I want all the electronics to run on the deep cycle battery. IE Chartplotter, fish finder/sonar, and troll master. I want the other battery to handle only the main engine starting, and the hydraulic pump.

As of right now, I have one cable that connects to the ground of the engine. The other goes to a 50A circuit breaker. There are two smaller ones that go to the hydraulic pump for the outdrive.

Off of the 50A breaker is a harness and the one red wire coming out of the harness goes to the key switch and powers the accessories when I turn the key switch on. Seems to be a common setup from what I've seen online.

However, this isn't what I need. I want the accessories to be on the deep cycle battery and the rest can stay on the starting battery.

Do I need to cut the wire for the accessory power from the 50amp plug and put an end on it and connect it directly to the new battery?

Or should I leave that alone and run a new wire from the dash were my accessory's all are to the new battery?

 

[alldodge]

Now that I'm going to be spending a lot more time on Lake Michigan, I decided I wanted to run a 2nd battery in my boat. I have a 4.5hp kicker motor, that will be used for trolling, while the main engine is shut down.

I ordered a blue sea battery switch, and 25 feet of 3/0 battery cable. The battery in there right now is a marine battery, but I will be purchasing a marine deep cycle battery to use for the 2nd.

So here is my question. I want all the electronics to run on the deep cycle battery. IE Chartplotter, fish finder/sonar, and troll master. I want the other battery to handle only the main engine starting, and the hydraulic pump.

As of right now, I have one cable that connects to the ground of the engine. The other goes to a 50A circuit breaker. There are two smaller ones that go to the hydraulic pump for the outdrive.

Off of the 50A breaker is a harness and the one red wire coming out of the harness goes to the key switch and powers the accessories when I turn the key switch on. Seems to be a common setup from what I've seen online.

However, this isn't what I need. I want the accessories to be on the deep cycle battery and the rest can stay on the starting battery.

Do I need to cut the wire for the accessory power from the 50amp plug and put an end on it and connect it directly to the new battery?

Or should I leave that alone and run a new wire from the dash were my accessory's all are to the new battery?

Run a new wire but not from the dash, run it from your new battery along with a ground to power your electronics, also install a fuse/breaker inline.

Will you be using the main engine to recharge the battery or a battery charger?

 

[Chemdawg]

I will be using the main engine to recharge both batteries.

 

[Chemdawg]

I wrote down everything that is up front. I have 4 switches. One for the blower, one for bilge pump, one for lights (Front/Dash/Rear), and one for accessories (Graphs, troll master). Those 4 switches are fused. There are other things connected though like the gauges get powered, horn, and stuff like that. I had thought that since I don't need anything on the dash when I'm trolling, that I could leave all that stuff connected to the engine battery, and just take my switch panel and connect it to the accessories for battery 2?

 

[alldodge]

I will be using the main engine to recharge both batteries.

To recharge both batteries from the engine alternator you will need an ACR, and Isolator or a battery switch that has a micro switch to disconnect the ALT when switching. If you leave the switch on "Both" while using your trolling motor your draining both batteries. If you put it on the second battery while trolling and then move it to start battery to head home it will not charge both batteries.

This one has an ACR, which does not have a switch between batteries. A battery charger does not have to be used



Here is an ACR setup with two separate switches but could be used with only one which combines if need. A battery charger does not have to be used. Use "electronics feeds as to the trolling motor

Can also use one with an isolator. You can also install the 1,2 and both battery switch but ALT sense mush be connected to start battery.

Now using a 1, 2 and both switch and IF the switch has a micro switch which makes/breaks the sense lead of the ALT. This way after you start the engine the switch and be moved to both to charge both batteries.


Now that said, unless your going for a very long run the ALT will probably not fully charge the trolling motor battery

I wrote down everything that is up front. I have 4 switches. One for the blower, one for bilge pump, one for lights (Front/Dash/Rear), and one for accessories (Graphs, troll master). Those 4 switches are fused. There are other things connected though like the gauges get powered, horn, and stuff like that. I had thought that since I don't need anything on the dash when I'm trolling, that I could leave all that stuff connected to the engine battery, and just take my switch panel and connect it to the accessories for battery 2?

The only item which will use a lot of power is your troll motor. Only other item would be your graph but it doesn't use much. If anything run new wires to/from the trolling motor and graph. Fuse main line equalt to the trolling motor requirement.

 

[Chemdawg]

Holy smokes that's a lot of stuff. LOL. What my main goal is, is to use my kicker motor to troll lake michigan without running the main engine. I don't want to be in a situation where I run my only battery dead because I didn't think to run the engine to charge the battery at all. Hence why I want to use a dual battery. I can leave the one battery alone while using the deep cycle during trolling sessions. Then I can switch back to the start battery to start the main engine.

That is my main goal. I hope all my other mumble jumble isn't confusing.

 

[alldodge]

Holy smokes that's a lot of stuff. LOL. What my main goal is, is to use my kicker motor to troll lake michigan without running the main engine. I don't want to be in a situation where I run my only battery dead because I didn't think to run the engine to charge the battery at all. Hence why I want to use a dual battery. I can leave the one battery alone while using the deep cycle during trolling sessions. Then I can switch back to the start battery to start the main engine.

That is my main goal. I hope all my other mumble jumble isn't confusing.

No problem-o, but in your case you are going to need a battery charger when you get back to the dock or trailer. I would suggest putting the switch in as shown in last pic in post 5. Place switch on the start battery position and leave it there. Go fishing and upon return plug in a battery charger to charge the second battery back up.

Make sure at least your trolling motor runs off the second battery. The graph can also but it does not draw much current.

This way you still have the ability to switch to both batteries if you are unable to start when heading back for home on the start battery alone.

 

[bruceb58]

Get this
https://www.bluesea.com/products/765...ery_Kit_-_120A

It uses a different type of switch. It isn't the 1/2/Both type. When you switch this switch to on, it actually is moving 2 switches. One connects battery 1 to your engine and the other connects battery 2 to your house loads. You use the ACR to allow battery #2 to charge while the engine is running. Battery #1 is ONLY used being discharged when starting.

This switch also allows you to combine the batteries. You can connect a 2 bank battery charger and keep the ACR from turnning on by connecting it on the load side of the switch instead of how it is shown in this diagram.

 

[Chemdawg]

My kicker motor is actually a 4.5hp evinrude. So there is no electrical power needed. I was concerned about running two 7" displays and draining the battery below starting power. Normally when I'm not using my boat I have a battery tender plugged into it anyways, to keep the battery at 100%. I might get a second one for the 2nd battery and keep them both plugged in. The ACR might not be a bad idea either.

 

[alldodge]

Get this
https://www.bluesea.com/products/765...ery_Kit_-_120A

It uses a different type of switch. It isn't the 1/2/Both type. When you switch this switch to on, it actually is moving 2 switches. One connects battery 1 to your engine and the other connects battery 2 to your house loads. You use the ACR to allow battery #2 to charge while the engine is running. Battery #1 is ONLY used being discharged when starting.
.

Hey Bruce can you find how it does this. I cannot find anything at Blue sea that verifies this. Also if it does this , does it handle the ALT connection

 

[bruceb58]

Hey Bruce can you find how it does this. I cannot find anything at Blue sea that verifies this. Also if it does this , does it handle the ALT connection

What part, that there are 2 switches inside?

There is no alt field disconnect if you turn it to off.

I use one of these switches and an ACR on my pontoon boat.

 

[Chemdawg]

Unfortunately I already bought the 1 2 Both Off switch. I'm going to wire it the conventional way and eventually purchase a marine charger to plug it in when I get it home to charge both batteries. I like the idea of being able to charge both on the fly, but when the boat is trolling on lake michigan with the evinrude motor, All that will be on is the Lawrence 7x HDI and the Lawrence 7m chart plotter. So I will set the switch to Batt 1 when I'm trolling, and batt 2 to start and run the main engine. This really opened my eyes to the possibilities though.

 

[Chemdawg]

Does anyone have a wiring diagram using a blue sea 6007 1 both 2 off switch and a blue sea M-ACR? I already have the 6007, and will be willing to purchase a M-ACR if it would help matters.

 

[bruceb58]

On the Blue Sea site.

 

[JASinIL2006]

I've not seen one... I'm must getting ready to install my Blue Sea ACR and switch, and the only diagrams I have found show the Off-On-Combine switch. One of the big advantages of the ACR is to join the batteries for charging but isolate them for discharging... seems like a traditional 1-2-both switch would defeat the purpose of the ACR somewhat.

 

[Chemdawg]

I think I'm going to just stick to my switch and just manually charge when I get it home. I'll put the money into a good marine dual battery charger. I'm probably making this more complicated than it needs to be.

 

[bruceb58]

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/990170140.pdf

 

[Chemdawg]

So I have my new blue sea switch hooked up and I ran 2/0 wire from the positive of bat 1 to the bat 1 term, and pos of bat 2 to the bat 2 term. Then from the center post I ran that to the place the original battery pos was. Then I ran the ground from bat 1 to the block where it originally was connected, and ran the ground from bat 2 to another spot on the block. Everything works well. Here is my question. Bat 1 will do the same thing as bat 2 will. However, bat 1 will raise and lower the outdrive whereas bat 2 will not. Will my main engine charge either battery if it's in 1 or 2 position?

 

[bruceb58]

Battery 2 has a bad connection or the battery is bad.

The battery that the switch is selected to will get charged.

 

[alldodge]

From post 12: I already bought the 1 2 Both Off switch

Will my main engine charge either battery if it's in 1 or 2 position?

No,
your engine will only charge Bat 1 if switch is in Bat 1 position.
engine will only charge Bat 2 if switch is in Bat 2 position.
and engine will charge both Bat 1 and 2 if switch is in BOTH position