draggy starter after everything has been cleaned

riden

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 25, 2006
Messages
116
The starter on my 94 90-hp evinrude is dragging and not spinning the engine near fast enough to start.

I've cleaned all terminal from the battery cables to the solonoid and have a fully charged marine battery.

12.7v at the solonoid before turning it over and when I turn the key the starter drags and I get a 9.6v reading.

I took the starter apart and cleaned out any crud I could see (which was mainly brush dust) which didn't seem to make a difference

Has my starter had it?

Thoughts?
 
Joined
Feb 17, 2012
Messages
2,906
if you have a set of jumper cables put one on dc neg to engine block then test.(if starter spins faster look at the ground cable where it bolts to block or bad cable)
Then connect the other to the battery dc+ and touch the post/stud on the starter. if the starter does the same then its looking like the starter needs tlc.
If you take it to bits again clean the copper stator ring with light sand paper then taking a nail or sharp point drag is down the slots on the copper stator between the copper contacts. theres about 20 segments that on the stator ring and you are scrapping out trapped carbon from the brushes which bridge the gaps. Next remove the brushes and gently clean the tips with sand paper to remove the shinny surface (flatten the surface as the middle is the best contact point). Then lube the springs with a tiny amount of oil and make sure the brushes when re-inserted spring in and out. When you reinstall the starter make sure you back wrench the stud because any twisting on the stud can pull on the internal wires and drag the brushes of the stator ring.
If that doesn't work then maybe its time for a new starter.
 

riden

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 25, 2006
Messages
116
if you have a set of jumper cables put one on dc neg to engine block then test.(if starter spins faster look at the ground cable where it bolts to block or bad cable)
Then connect the other to the battery dc+ and touch the post/stud on the starter. if the starter does the same then its looking like the starter needs tlc.
If you take it to bits again clean the copper stator ring with light sand paper then taking a nail or sharp point drag is down the slots on the copper stator between the copper contacts. theres about 20 segments that on the stator ring and you are scrapping out trapped carbon from the brushes which bridge the gaps. Next remove the brushes and gently clean the tips with sand paper to remove the shinny surface (flatten the surface as the middle is the best contact point). Then lube the springs with a tiny amount of oil and make sure the brushes when re-inserted spring in and out. When you reinstall the starter make sure you back wrench the stud because any twisting on the stud can pull on the internal wires and drag the brushes of the stator ring.
If that doesn't work then maybe its time for a new starter.

Can you clarify what you mean by grounding cable where it bolts to the block? Did I miss something?
 

gunfighter

Cadet
Joined
Aug 9, 2007
Messages
16
I would guess he is talking about where the negative battery cable attaches to the outboard to ground it
 

mla2ofus

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 30, 2008
Messages
571
A small amount of grease in the starter shaft bushings will fix the problem.
Mike
 

Fleetwin

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Nov 23, 2011
Messages
1,141
I would guess he is talking about where the negative battery cable attaches to the outboard to ground it

Yes, the neg batt cable where it attaches to the block. Very common on unregulated (charging) OMC's.
 

riden

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 25, 2006
Messages
116
Yes, the neg batt cable where it attaches to the block. Very common on unregulated (charging) OMC's.
Gothca thanks.

My first thought was a ground that clamps between the bolt and block.
 
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