4-Way Switch Panel Wiring Help!!!

[KillerKowalski]

I am lost and I seriously need some help! I have done a few hours of research on the Internet looking for answers. I can't find a wiring diagram anywhere or a PDF from the manufacture. As you can see, I had some work done on my 2003 Alumacraft 1860AW. The wiring was torn all out before I could get time to take a look how it was wired. I got the boat back and now I am stuck how to wire the switch up.

This is what I have in regards for the 4-way switch one cranking battery, LED navigation lights (stern, bow), 8' interior LED strip lights, 24" bow LED spot/flood light bar and a manual bilge pump.

I have attached pictures of the switch front and back.

My questions on the back of the switch panel what is the empty terminal on the left sides? Grounds? Where does my power wires go into the switch for each item? My thinking is that I am going to a 5 position bus bar for grounds into the custom made box. The open space on the box is for the digital tach and a gas gauge for the bow mounted gas tank.

I appreciate any information to help me complete this wiring!

 

[kjsAZ]

(last picture). The right side goes to battery plus and the "empty" 0.1" tabs go to the light(s) and pump(s).
Power comes from the battery, goes through the fuse then through the switch and from there to the load. The resistors deserve some insulation over the lead which goes to the LED in the center! Looks like a sloppy PO "improvement job"......

Looks like you are short by one switch for what you want to install. The bow light should not be hard-wired to the all around as it in itself is also the anchor light.

 

[glenn property of pam]

what you have is a panel that had 4 manual resettable breakers and 4 switchs. The anchor light breaker is missing and has been wired on to the running light.
The cut red wire is for 12v positive, this feeds power to the breakers. The small cut black wire is for the led lights to indicate the switch is turned on. There is no ground buss for the grounds (dc negative) wires so you will have to buy one.
With out modifying the panel you have 3 switchs used and one open to use for ????????? (aux 1). From what im reading you want to add 2 extra circuits for the led's inside the boat and led spot light.
If you like the panel we can give you the instructions on how to add a different style switch so the anchor/bow work off one switch then you will get a extra space for the second aux switch. Or you could consider buying a different panel with more switchs.

 

[KillerKowalski]

I don't mind buying another panel. I did notice that the anchor light position breaker was missing or never was there. I am perfect with a 4 position switch for what I need to hook up. I would need a 4 position or same dimensions as the mounting box is already cut for one. I will never ad anything really. I am pretty minimalist. My plan was to buy a bus bar for the grounds. I would like each item I listed on each switch. Well, it would have to be in order for me to use the products as they should be. So, ditch the switch and buy a new one?

I have the basic idea of the wiring down. I guess I will have to do more trial and error. I rather not though. I specifically asked them before they cut wires to mark them or take a picture. I already spent two hours today on it and couldn't get anything to work.

 

[KillerKowalski]

There are the two schematics that I found that I am trying to work off of. There is a 40A breaker that is in a box of "junk" that the fabricator gave me back. Said it was for the TM and I had trouble believing that.

 

[glenn property of pam]

top left terminal (has a resistor soldered to it) positive wire to bow light
second to top left (has a resistor soldered to it) positive to stern light (anchor)
third down left (has a resistor soldered to it) positive to bilge pump
bottom left (has a resistor soldered to it) positive to what ever led lights you have

bottom right (cut wire red) 12v+ from battery, best to install breaker with in 6-12" of battery post
bottom middle (cut wire black) battery negative or negative buss (do not use hull as negative)

all items connected to left side are grounded after the item at the buss or battery negative.

that's how its was wired up before they worked on it.

 

[UncleWillie]

An unrelated note....

In the First picture it appears that your bilge pump hull-through is below the water line.
Despite the large loop up to near the top of the Transom, if the exit point is below the water line,
you risk starting a siphon action INTO the boat when the pump shuts off!

 

[Fleetwin]

An unrelated note....
In the First picture it appears that your bilge pump hull-through is below the water line.
Despite the large loop up to near the top of the Transom, if the exit point is below the water line,
you risk starting a siphon action INTO the boat when the pump shuts off!

I thought that was odd also!

As far as running/anchor lights, you can replace two switches with one ON-OFF-ON switch. DPDT.

 

[kjsAZ]

yes you can. That's what most of the newer boats come with. Much better as both go on when you turn to navigation and only the all around for anchor.

 

[KillerKowalski]

I got it figured out now. The two wires that were cut was had me lost. I ordered a bus bar today for the grounds and then will bring that to the battery negative with a single lead.

My next adventure is hooking up the interior lights LED strips in series, which is what I have read should work best. Any opinions on that? There will be at least four total and may add two more strips. I have a 16' spool coming, but hasn't delivered yet.

Regarding the bilge, there is no thru-hull discharge. It's just a free hose that hangs over the transom (previous owner). I pulled it off the transom to work on the jack plate. I haven't installed a thru-hull discharge yet and will eventually. I will put it in the port side. That will be next Spring though. I have way too much to get done before Teal season opens.

I installed these this morning before work. Sanded, etched and painted the chrome on the LED navigation light. Mounted both and wired the navigation. Still have to finish the light bar.

 

[glenn property of pam]

are you sure the strips go in series... I would have thought parallel. Also I hate to tell you but you are not allowed to use the light bar at night if there are other boats around. It maybe ok to use while docking but if you turn that on at night anyone coming towards you will go night blind.

 

[KillerKowalski]

I am not sure about the LEDs, which is why I asked.

The light is completely legal. It's not for fishing or boating seasons. It's attached by rivnuts. I hunt lakes where people aren't allowed to fish ten days prior hunting season until it closes. Everyone launching is headed the exact same way. No blinding. I am sure you would love to run timber at 33 MPH blacked out. Good luck.

Statutes are state specific as I am sure you already know.