Wiring up an aluminum boat for lights and power 12v

[ERASERHEAD]

I am creating a wiring schematic and need to know if I have the right idea or if I have over complicated things. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Please take a look at my diagram and let me know if you think this will work.

The wooden block with terminals is a quick connect for the electrical trolling motor. The center square is my marine four way switch and the two 6v batteries are connected in series for power doubling to create my 12v system.
What do you think - It should work , I hope!

 

[ERASERHEAD]

Re: Wiring up an aluminum boat for lights and power 12v

The square is the four way marine switch with fish finder, trolling motor, transom and bow light on it.

 

[Wind dog]

Re: Wiring up an aluminum boat for lights and power 12v

It'll never fly!

That's OK though it's a boat!
Looks like it should work OK.
Curious, why 2 6V batteries? (As opposed to one 12V)

 

[ERASERHEAD]

Re: Wiring up an aluminum boat for lights and power 12v

It'll never fly!

That's OK though it's a boat!
Looks like it should work OK.
Curious, why 2 6V batteries? (As opposed to one 12V)

I just bought the boat Second hand and the seller was using two 6v golf cart batteries for the trolling motor.

Thank you for looking over my home made schematic, I can now finish it with at least some level of confidence.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Wiring up an aluminum boat for lights and power 12v

I think the four-way switch he refers to is a four-switch panel. But even then, if one of those switches is intended to control a trolling motor be ready for smoke and fire. There is no reason to put a switch on that circuit. Use a plug and socket for disconnect. Those panel switches are not capable of carrying the current required by the troller. Next, you have the bow and stern light wiring hosed up. You either need separate switches for proper operation of the those lights, or you need a three position ON-OFF-ON switch. You also have the the fuse panel shown with POS and NEG markings in which the hot lead for the bow light is going to a NEG terminal. You really need to rethink this setup as you have lots of grounding and positive feed issues and worse, you don't have circuit protection at the positive terminal of the battery. You also do not have wire gauge listed. Here is a diagram that should get you going in the right direction, and I agree that a single, group 27 deep cycle is a better choice, and cheaper than two 6 volt batteries. Ignore the gauges if you don't have them. Ignore the MASTER switch if you don't want one.

Here is wiring for a three position NAV/ANC switch for your lights.

 

[ERASERHEAD]

Re: Wiring up an aluminum boat for lights and power 12v

Can you provide a link to this four way marine switch? Is it "ignition protected"? Who makes it?

Outboard motor with no electronic start, it is a SeaDogLine model # 422010-1

http://assets.seattlepub.com:8020/SuperContainer/RawData/Sea-Dog/TechSheets/16

 

[ERASERHEAD]

Re: Wiring up an aluminum boat for lights and power 12v

My diagram just doesn't show enough detail - the middle connection on the switch is positive (please refer to the link I just posted) and thank you for advising against the trolling motor running through the switch. I will run it on a designated circuit.
You guys have helped me a lot - I am thankful and happy I joined this forum

 

[ERASERHEAD]

Re: Wiring up an aluminum boat for lights and power 12v

10-4, Trolling motor = dedicated circuit

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Wiring up an aluminum boat for lights and power 12v

Why put the fish finder on a switch? Doesn't it have one on the unit? If the reason you are doing that is because you may forget to turn it off, then why not use one of the switches as a MASTER. Turn off one switch and the panel dies. The logic here is that if you can't remember to turn the locator off at the locator, will you remember to turn it off with the console switch. It also means you have to turn on the console switch, then turn on the locator. then there is the Nav/Anc light switching but whatever lights your fire is fine. One switch can do the work of two but it does need to be a three posltion

 

[glenn property of pam]

Re: Wiring up an aluminum boat for lights and power 12v

i know it seems neat to use all the switchs but that might come back to bite you later. Alot of people who are new to making prints try to add items to the switchs and fuses just because they are there. Your boat would be easier with one master switch and a light switch. Im sure with in a week you will add something to the boat that will require a switch or breaker so if you dont have any spares you will have to rewire to make room. I would wire from the battery to the master switch load side so when the switch is turned on the power will go via the master switch and breaker back to the positive buss in the switch panel then wire the lights to silvertips diagram or use 2 switchs if you have want as that will still leave one spare. the fish finder and all small loads can be added to the positive buss as the master switch breaker will protect them. i like to add a cig lighter socket to all my boats as just about anything can be plugged in like a phone charger etc.

 

[fishrdan]

Re: Wiring up an aluminum boat for lights and power 12v

Why put the fish finder on a switch?

I agree, and disagree. I have my sonar on a switch which keeps me from leaving it on, but it's a pain in the bee-hind flipping a switch, then having to turn on the sonar.

Running 2-6V batteries is supposed to make for longer run time, but what happens when one of those goes dead, you're not trolling any more. I'd rather run dual 12V batteries for the capacity, or just a single 12V if you can get away with it.

I'm not sure what you're doing with the wood block, terminals and trolling motor, but wood will eventually shrink, compress and rot, not good. Pick up a cheap 1/2" poly cutting board (Sams Club $10) and make your terminal block out of that.

You're going to need a breaker on the battery(s), 50 amp should do. I'd also consider a circuit for interior lights if you're going to be fishing at night. Are you going to have a bilge pump on the boat?

On my jon boat I run a 50 amp breaker on each battery, 8 ga wire back to the trolling motor terminal block, then from the TM terminal block to a 6 gang fuse/switch panel and (with 10 ga wire, 12ga? don't remember). The trolling motor terminal block is a chunk of poly cutting board, couple round stand-off spacers cut from poly board and 2 SS bolts.

Don't cheap out on the fuse/switch panel. I bought one at BPS and 2 years later several switches were bad. I then bought the one I should have in the first place, cost twice as much.....

 

[ERASERHEAD]

Re: Wiring up an aluminum boat for lights and power 12v

Thank you all for the valuable info - I can now procede and not make some obvious mistakes that I was destined to make!

 

[Moody Blue]

Re: Wiring up an aluminum boat for lights and power 12v

I agree that a single, group 27 deep cycle is a better choice, and cheaper than two 6 volt batteries.

I have to disagree to a point. The 6V deep cycle batteries typically have a much higher RC (reserve capacity) than the 12V counterparts. Ideally suited for high current draw situations such as trolling motors, golf carts, etc and are the preferred choice in solar power battery banks because of their high reserve capacity.

The down side is that they are considerably more expensive than the 12V batteries.

 

[ERASERHEAD]

Re: Wiring up an aluminum boat for lights and power 12v

The two 6v batteries came with the boat so I am happily good to go