Faria Fuel gauge replacement

[SMullenMaine]

Hi all,

My fuel gauge reads E all of the time... previous owner told me that the tank sender has been tested and working.

so...

Should I believe him? is there an easy way to check? I have Ohmmeter, but don't know what to look for...

Can I buy a gauge like Iboats part# 13001 and simply replace it?

How do I get the old one out? is it the terminal nuts that hold it into the black plastic frame?

Will the new one have the same terminal config and fit in the same spot?

attached pics show front of gauge and up in behind the dash (top left of photo)

Thanks,

Steve Mullen, Portland, Maine

 

[Don S]

Re: Faria Fuel gauge replacement

First thing to do is take the pink wire off the sender, then turn the ignition key to the run position and tap the pink wire you disconnect at the sender and tap it on the ground wire. The gauge should peg out to the right. Don't hold it, just a quick test to see if the gauge works.

If it doesn't move, the make sure the pink wire from the sender to the gauge is good. And the ground wire is actually hooked to ground.

If the wiring is good, and you have power and ground to the gauge, and it doesn't peg out, then the gauge is bad.

The sender you could remove from the tank, then hook an ohm meter to it and check to see if the resistance changes as you move the lever.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Faria Fuel gauge replacement

The fuel sender is tested by measuring it's resistance. It should measure 33 - 240 ohms (full - empty) with 109 ohms about 1/2 full. Take the measurement with the pink sender wire disconnected at the sender.

MOMENTARILY jumper the "S" (sender) terminal on the gauge to the "G" (ground) terminal with the key in the RUN position. The gauge should peg full -- provided the "I" (ignition/+12 volt) terminal has 12 volts on it and the "G" terminal has a good ground. If the gauge does not peg full under the above conditions, then it's toast. Most folks who THINK the connections are good end up replacing the gauge only to find it doesn't work either. VERIFY that you have +12 volts and ground on the gauge. VERIFY that the metal shell of the sender is grounded to the negative terminal of the batter. VERIFY that the sender wire is good from the sender all the way to the gauge and is not broken or shorted somewhere in between. THEN replace what's wrong. HINT: The gauge is rarely the cause.