Looks OK . . . the fuel gauge is not part of the schematic wiring, but it looks like the pink wire leading from the gauge is what goes to the sender.
The issue may be at the sender, not at the gauge. Make sure the wiring is in good shape and complete at the sender.
Caution is the word, since you are dealing with fuel.
If a marine fuel guage works the same as an automotive unit then the test is fairly simple.
If you ground the wire that leads to the sending unit the guage should slowly move towards the empty reading.
If the wire to the sending unit is "open" unattached to anything it should move towards full.
Or visa versa of my description.
Either way if you see two opposing actions of the needle depending on which way its hooked up then you know the guage is funtioning and the problem is most likely in the sending unit.
They can be tested too but you need to remove it from the tank to do so.
It's actually the reverse. Grounding (well, you are really connecting it to the battery negative side) the sender terminal will peg the gauge to the full side. Do this only long enough to verify the needle does this or you can burn out the gauge.
It's actually the reverse. Grounding (well, you are really connecting it to the battery negative side) the sender terminal will peg the gauge to the full side. Do this only long enough to verify the needle does this or you can burn out the gauge.
If a marine fuel guage works the same as an automotive unit then the test is fairly simple.
If you ground the wire that leads to the sending unit the guage should slowly move towards the empty reading.
If the wire to the sending unit is "open" unattached to anything it should move towards full.
Or visa versa of my description.
Either way if you see two opposing actions of the needle depending on which way its hooked up then you know the guage is funtioning and the problem is most likely in the sending unit.
They can be tested too but you need to remove it from the tank to do so.
NO! The gauge does not work that way. Grounding the send lead represents 0 ohms to the gauge and it reads FULL and it will do so QUICKLY so this should be quick touch to ground. Prolonged grounding can trash the gauge. Fuel senders for marine use are 33 ohms full, 109 ohms (roughly) at 1/2 full, and 240 ohms at empty. Disconnect the pink wire and measure resistance from it to ground. If you know roughly how much fuel is in the tank you should be able to tell from the resistance reading if the sender is ok. If you get no reading, then the pink wire is suspect or the sender is bad or its ground at the tank has come undone.
Without a battery you obviously will not have a ground connection anywhere. YES -- the battery must be installed. You do NOT apply power to any circuit on which you intend to measure resistance. It doesn't matter if the gauge wires are disconnected but the pink wire MUST be disconnected at the gauge. Set the meter to read resistance (whatever range allows reading up to 500 ohms or so.). Touch the red lead to the pink wire and the black lead to a KNOWN GOOD GROUND. Yes -- you should read something a little more than 30 or so.
Right it is the reverse. Thats why i covered my *** by adding "or visa versa" couldnt remember. But either way you will see a change if the guage is actually working. Its a quick and simple check.It's actually the reverse. Grounding (well, you are really connecting it to the battery negative side) the sender terminal will peg the gauge to the full side. Do this only long enough to verify the needle does this or you can burn out the gauge.
Without a battery you obviously will not have a ground connection anywhere. YES -- the battery must be installed. You do NOT apply power to any circuit on which you intend to measure resistance. It doesn't matter if the gauge wires are disconnected but the pink wire MUST be disconnected at the gauge. Set the meter to read resistance (whatever range allows reading up to 500 ohms or so.). Touch the red lead to the pink wire and the black lead to a KNOWN GOOD GROUND. Yes -- you should read something a little more than 30 or so.
It's a piece of wire that for all practical purposes IS indeed the same as putting the red test lead on the sender. The only issue with doing that is if the pink wire is broken or disconnected/corroded at the sender, what conclusion can you draw. If your answer is the sender is bad that would be the wrong conclusion. Performing the test at the sender eliminates the pink wire as the problem. So the answer to your question is Yes. But with the conditions just mentioned. If you get a correct resistance reading you then know the wire and the sender is ok. If you get no reading or an incorrect reading you have no choice but to go to the sender to perform the test.