Another Float Switch/bilge question---

[LiquidAssets]

Well, just picked up my boat (89 Baja 4.3 I/O) from storage. Charged up the battery and checked all the electronics--neither the bilge pump or the float switch are working. Everything else is OK. The light on my bilge switch at the dash comes on, so I'm assuming I'm getting power at that point. No idea where to start with the voltmeter, I suppose check the connection to the bilge and float switch.

How many people have their float switch wired directly to the battery? Right now, mine goes to the dash. But I'm wondering if I can just attach the connections to the battery. I only have one battery.

Also--I know these float switches don't have the longest life in the world. Would a bad float switch cause the entire complex to fail?

Thanks!

 

[spoilsofwar]

Re: Another Float Switch/bilge question---

A few questions first,

Is the float switch integral to the pump or is it an external unit?

Is the switch on your dash an "ON/OFF/AUTO" type, or just ON/OFF?

The float switch, asuming its an external unit, if failed will still allow the pump to work if you skip the float switch's wiring and wire the pump directly to the battery. If its internal, I would assume the whole deal is junked.

 

[LiquidAssets]

Re: Another Float Switch/bilge question---

Good questions--Probably should've addressed them in the original post.

The float switch is integral to the pump. It's not an external unit.

The switch at the dash is a three-way On/Off/Auto.

 

[spoilsofwar]

Re: Another Float Switch/bilge question---

Good questions--Probably should've addressed them in the original post.

The float switch is integral to the pump. It's not an external unit.

The switch at the dash is a three-way On/Off/Auto.

Ok, I have no experience with that type of bilge pump, but unless the float switch part of it is somehow detachable and replaceable, I'm going to assume its dead - IF, when you hook it up directly to the battery it does not work. If it does work when you do that, your issue is somewhere along the wiring between the dash switch and the pump or the dash switch itself.

Yes, you can hook your pump directly up to the battery, many (probably most) people have it wired this way. You don't need a switch with this method because the float switch will turn the pump on and off automatically. On the other hand, you can't manually activate the pump if the float switch fails.

 

[Fireman431]

Re: Another Float Switch/bilge question---

Replace the integrated unit with a quality pump and external float. This allows you to easily (manually) test the float and pump assembly. With your current style, if any leaves, pine needles, or other junk finds it's way into the float area, it can easily jam up the float so it doesn't move.

I also recommend retaining the 3-way switch at the helm. First, it's easiest. Just install the new float/pump in the bilge and you're done. Second, you won't have an open hole in your dash, Third, in the event the float locks up, cracks and fills with water, or other failure, you can still activate the pump with the push of a button.

Yes....wire directly to the battery.

 

[glenn property of pam]

Re: Another Float Switch/bilge question---

12v+ goes to center of switch. in on postion 12v+ goes to pump and pump runs, in auto 12v goes to float switch then to pump may be joined at the back near the pump or may come back to the wire thats use for the on side of the switch. hope silver has a diagram its realy easy on paper. light on switch could be hooked to either side of the switch (proberly the on switch side so you know pump is running)

so check you have 12v at middle (common) of switch (urrr dont count the black wire as thats a ground for the light). then try switch to on pump should run. if it doesnt check the pump. if thats all ok then change switch to auto and lift the switch and pump should start, drop the switch pump should stop