motorguide w75 - replacing column (shaft) and transducer conversion

[donberry]

I picked up a refurbished W75 with a 48" column for what I thought was a real good price. Hoped I might be able to get away with a 48" column but is not going to work, so I need to change it out to a 60" shaft (boat is a fish & ski). I checked out the parts diagram, which is HERE if anyone is interested, and seems simple enough but would be great if someone else may have done it so I can be sure, hate to break my new trolling motor.
Sure looks like the head is just attached with one bolt and the bottom of the column is threaded, screwing into the transmission. So remove the head, disconnect the wires (marking them is need be) wrap a heavy cloth around the column and use a pipe wrench to turn it loose. Splice in some new wire to make it long enough (I solder them myself), and screw the new column on, putting some real good marine grade sealant on the threads so it will not leak. reattach wires and head.
Seems simple enough, but I know how those things often go.
Big thing giving me pause - I googled this and only came up with one person who was doing this and he was having trouble twisting off the old column. He never finished the post, so just checking. I would guess it was just hard to turn because of sealant on the threads, but would rather be safe than sorry.
Any info appreciated. Love the t.m by the way, other than the shaft is too short. I normally fish by myself and can't fish from the back of the boat (love the wireless) because the motor starts cavitating.

While I am asking. I read about a transducer conversion - converting one without a transducer to one with one, but could not find out much info about it. Not 100% sure, but I believe the conversion kit is HERE
If so, seems like it would just be a matter of removing the old cone and installing that and of course running the wires up the shaft. Not sure how difficult that would be as I obviously never removed a cone from a trolling motor before. I am pretty handy and usually do pretty much everything diy, tho I would hate to break my new trolling motor. Again, any info appreciated. Biggie tho is the column

 

[John_S]

Re: motorguide w75 - replacing column (shaft) and transducer conversion

I can confirm that the head is only one bolt. There will be just a red and black wire and two wirenuts there. The links didn't work, but suspect that epoxy is used on the threads. A heat gun should help.

 

[donberry]

Re: motorguide w75 - replacing column (shaft) and transducer conversion

checked the link, the editor keeps knocking out the 1st part, sorry. I just googled Motorguide W75 parts diagram and it is the 1st result.
I appreciate the reply, just thought it best to check before I find out it has some weird lock and i broke something.
I am also going to see about mounting a small led light(s) in the top cover so I can see where it is pointed at night. Will need to put a meter on the power wires to see if they are always hot or only hot when the remote is pushed. If only "on" when a button pushed, just drill a hole in the top cover, mount a 24v led light (blue or green) and silicone around that so it doesn't leak, then tie into the wires. If it is always hot, thinking about just using a 12v led and mounting a AA battery/holder inside the cover - figure a AA battery will last a LONG time just running an led or 2. Big thing there tho is turning it on and off. Could mount a switch also, but would start getting kind of "busy" on the cover. Will have to see what i have when I check the wires.
I just don;t like not knowing where it is pointed at night. Was going to use some glow in the dark tape, but think a LED would work better.
Anyway, thanks for the info

 

[John_S]

Re: motorguide w75 - replacing column (shaft) and transducer conversion

You will only have Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) 24V across those leads when you have the motor on. I suspect, the PWM will make the LED duller on low vs high speeds. You will have to expierment to see if bright enough.

I don't night fish that often, but have just taped a chemical light stick to the top of the head.

PS: Seal the LED up well, so rainwater or wave overspray does not get in and run down the shaft.

 

[donberry]

Re: motorguide w75 - replacing column (shaft) and transducer conversion

John_S - thanks for the info. Being dim may actually be a good thing. I just want something to be able to glance at it and see where it is pointed. A light stick or even glow in the dark tape was the 1st thing I thought of, but then thought if I could mount an LED there, would be better yet. When my column gets here and I replace it, will check to see what voltages I have. If there is room under the cover, I may just end up going with a AA battery and a switch. A LED would last a pretty long time on a AA, so would hopefully only have to pop the top every couple of months to change the battery.
In the summer, night fishing is by far the best option as it gets pretty hot. Even when not hot, I love being on the lake at night.....very peaceful. 1st thing I did when I got my boat was install a decent stereo. Turns out I rarely use it when fishing as I just enjoy the peace and quiet - also listening for the fish jumping

 

[John_S]

Re: motorguide w75 - replacing column (shaft) and transducer conversion

There is plenty of room for your AA battery idea. I'd use at least two leds of different colors to tell direction, and fore/aft. I assume you don't get enough backlighting from your navigation lights that reflective tape alone, would work.

 

[donberry]

Re: motorguide w75 - replacing column (shaft) and transducer conversion

well, actually I rarely use my navigation lights. Now I know you are sitting there thinking how dangerous I am, but I have 4 38" waterproof flexible LED lights in UV on the outside of my boat - black lights for fishing. When I first put them on, I was out on the lake one night and ran into some other anglers and I stopped and we talked a bit. Then ,not knowing the lake yet, I took off and was cruising around - actually ended up getting lost and was zipping back and forth until I finally used google earth on my phone to find my way back (I have since got a Lowrance HDS w/ chart plotter). Anyway, finally found my way back and the guys were still there, so I stopped to see how they were doing. They told me that they could see me zooming all over the place from a loooonnnngggggggg ways away due to the black lights. They light me up like a christmas tree. I have run into them a few times since as they always fish in the same spot and they say they always know it is me because of the lights - is actually a really cheap way to get really good black lights on the boat and they work great.
I have a fish & ski and when I turn on my nav lights, the lights from the gauges come on and it is much harder to see because of the glare in the windshield.Was going to rig it where I could turn off the gauge lights, but since those guys told me they could see me a mile away (literally), I rarely use my nav lights now. If I see another boat zooming around I might turn it on and flash them a few times, really for the back white light on the pole since it is higher in the water, but I would guess there really isn't any need for me to do that. I think it is safe to say that if they can't see my boat, they have been drinking - a bunch.
I passed the lake patrol one night, just the black lights on and they must not have cared as they didn't try to catch me.

So I am hoping i am not too dangerous out there. Seeing me is not a problem.

As for the 2 led's - will check it out if my column ever gets here, turns out they have not even shipped it yet. 2 may be better, but was thinking if i could just have one on the nose of it, I could just look at the light and know where it is pointed. That will be more a trial and error thing.

Now I wish there was a good way to mount a transducer. I guess I need to buy the conversion kit but I have pretty much emptied my wallet buying the trolling motor, a LSS-1 and another hds 5 - for now I will just have to figure out a temporary way to mount the transducer I have.

 

[fishrdan]

Re: motorguide w75 - replacing column (shaft) and transducer conversion

You'll need to heat up the shaft to break down the shaft sealant, heat gun or careful application from a torch. I'd clamp the motor, put a pipe wrench on the shaft, apply a good amount of pressure trying to turn the shaft out,,, then apply heat to the shaft. Once it starts turning, stop heating.

For the wires, personally, I would crimp, solder, then heatshrink, staggering the splices.

 

[John_S]

Re: motorguide w75 - replacing column (shaft) and transducer conversion

If it was pitch black, a single led doesn't tell you what direction it is pointed. Two leds tell you the axis but not fore/aft. Guessing wrong you wrap the wires around the shaft.

The anchor light is for other boaters to visably see you. The navigation lights are for others to tell what direction you are heading. I just leave mine on. None of my boats require the gauge lighting to be on to turn on nav or anchor lights. That should be an easy fix. I think they make led versions if worried about the power draw. Mounting one of those on the top of the head unit might be worth considering.

While I don't plan to replace my shafts, will be interested in how your replacement goes.

 

[95roadking]

Re: motorguide w75 - replacing column (shaft) and transducer conversion

What are you going to use for a shaft?? I thought of doing the same thing.

 

[walleyd]

Re: motorguide w75 - replacing column (shaft) and transducer conversion

What are you going to use for a shaft?? I thought of doing the same thing.

I mounted an LED so I could see when the motor was running. Just splice to one set of wires since there are ther 4 (25V) in the head. The light will actually get brighter and dimmer with the speed of the motor. Look in an auto parts store for a lighted arrow. I've seen them for turn signals on side mirrors before. Just drill a small hole for the wires, hook them up, seal the hole and thick the arrow to the head, aligned with the motor direction. Hope this helps.
My wireless 75 will stop steering after a long day. I thing the electric motore for steering is getting old. Ordered a whole new transmission assy from **********. They're great for all OEM parts. Hope it solves my problem.. Good luck

 

[walleyd]

Re: motorguide w75 - replacing column (shaft) and transducer conversion

What are you going to use for a shaft?? I thought of doing the same thing.

I mounted an LED so I could see when the motor was running. Just splice to one set of wires since there are 4 (24V) in the head. The light will actually get brighter and dimmer with the speed of the motor. Look in an auto parts store for a lighted arrow. I've seen them for turn signals on side mirrors before. Just drill a small hole for the wires, hook them up, seal the hole and stick the arrow to the head, aligned with the motor direction. Hope this helps.
My wireless 75 will stop steering after a long day. I think the electric motor for steering is getting old. Ordered a whole new transmission assy from boats. net. They're great for all OEM parts. Hope it solves my problem.. Good luck

 

[John_S]

Re: motorguide w75 - replacing column (shaft) and transducer conversion

My wireless 75 will stop steering after a long day. I think the electric motor for steering is getting old.

If it sounded like the motor was trying to turn, then probably the transmission. If it doesn't respond to control, left, right, or both, but speed does, it can be low voltage, logic board issues. If you disconnect power and reapply, and problem went away, something was messed up on logic board.

 

[donberry]

Re: motorguide w75 - replacing column (shaft) and transducer conversion

an update. 1st the LED light. I went with a battery pack and a single LED. One led works great as it is mounted in the nose so you always know where it is pointed. Works fantastic and i could not be happier with it


As for the shaft - wow. It was like it was glued in with JB Weld. I ended up having to break off the shaft near the case and "chipping" it out with a screwdriver. Only problem then was the junk was in the threads so the new one did not screw in exactly right. I took it to a machine shop and that one did not have the right size tap to clean the threads. I ended up just ordering that part, cost me like another $40.00 I believe. Still cost me under $75.00 for a longer shaft. If I were doing it again, I wouldn't even mess with trying to get the old one out and just order the new piece along with the shaft. I tried a heat gun where I was worried I might start warping the case. As I figure if I ever did replace it I would just order that part also, when i put it back together I used a 2 part marine epoxy so I don't see it coming out of there.
Love the motor, tho at times it seems the range on the wireless could be better. Often, if I am in the middle of the boat (a 19' fish and ski) and the seat in the bow is up, the remote will not work. I installed new batteries and works the same. One of these days i am going to see about extending the antenna.
I highly recommend the led light tho.....only thing is make sure u do not get one too bright, it does not take much and u don;t want it to blind you. My 1st one (the one in the pic) was too bright and coloring it in with a marker did not help. I was just putting some electrical tape over it until I got a dimmer bulb