Bilge/Float Switch

[Five O'Clock]

Hey All,

I own a 25' Monterey Cabin cruiser I/O, it has 2 bilge pumps, one in the engine room, and one under the stairs leading into the cabin. The one I have questions about is the one under the stairs. I should have taken a picture of the set-up of bilge/float switch but I fogot, will have to wait until the weekend.

Anyway, I have about 2-3 inches of water in this compartment with the bilge and there is no Bilge switch for this front compartment like there is for the bilge in the engine room. If there's no switch, that must mean the float switch activates the bilge when a water level reaches a certain point. And I am willing to guarantee that the water level is about the point where it's supposed to kick on. I'm looking to learn more about these devices. Where should I start investigating the problem? Should I start unplugging and replugging in the electrical work and see if triggers a loose wire? Start with replacing the float switch, then the bilge? Bilge then float switch? Neither?

On the bilge case, there is a sticker that says something along the lines of "If you need to replace the float switch, use model #xxx or call Attwood Marine at xxx-xxx-xxxx" which leads me to believe float switches need to be replaced often? Am I wrong there?

Thanks for the help everyone.

Dan

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Bilge/Float Switch

there should be a way to activate the pump at the auto switch to test. could be bad switch, or bad pump.

 

[Five O'Clock]

Re: Bilge/Float Switch

i have a breaker that says "Aft Bilge" but it was never triggered. I tested them all last year and they are all working, if that helps.

 

[OhWellcraft]

Re: Bilge/Float Switch

You could run a hot wire to the pump wires and see if the pump is good then if it checks out use the same hot wire to check the float switch if it checks out then its a wire/switch/fuse/short somewhere along the way. or if you have a good test light test the wires to see if they are hot if it is not switched then they have to be hot to the float switch. Just use a good piece of wire with some alligator clips on the ends for the hot wire or even some jumper cables. If the pump and float switch are easily accessed take them out and bench test would be the easiest way to go. good luck.

 

[jevery]

Re: Bilge/Float Switch

If you?re going to have this boat for a while, I?d consider replacing the pump with a auto pump with the newer ?water sensing? technology. No moving parts and are advertised as much more reliable than the mercury float switches. They aren?t real expensive and are easy to wire and install. I just put one in and it kicks on at about 1-1/2? water accumulation and kicks off when it starts sucking air.

http://www.iboats.com/Mayfair_Johns...12441601--**********.153638927--view_id.56930

 

[Five O'Clock]

Re: Bilge/Float Switch

got some more info.... i went to the marina tonight just because it's been bugging me....

under the stairs, i feel as if there are 2 bilge pumps and 1 float switch. the 2 bilges are a little different, there is one inside a closed in box, and there is one outside the box. the one outside the box is a V1250, and the one inside the box is a V750. on the top of the box, there is a sticker that says "if you need to replace the float switch, use part #4202A..." and then it has the number...

there are probably 4 or 5 different hoses going in and out of the compartment, and i couldn't be more confused

does this make any sense?

 

[jevery]

Re: Bilge/Float Switch

Sounds like the box may be a collection point with incoming drain lines from other compartments. Do you have a test light or multimeter to find at which point in the wiring toward the pump you no longer have power?

 

[Five O'Clock]

Re: Bilge/Float Switch

i do not have a test light but I will get one. I went to the attwood marine website and looked at the pumps, and I noticed the "sump pump" box:

http://tinyurl.com/5cjy3s

could the pump inside the box be for the shower in the head? i know when i hit the switch for "shower pump" on my breaker box it works, but I didn't know where the pump was, it has to be in this compartment, right?

 

[jevery]

Re: Bilge/Float Switch

As I?ve never owned a boat with shower and sink I haven?t a clue. My bass boat has live wells and they fill with pumps, but drain by gravity as they?re above water level. Your shower likely has two pumps. The one labeled ?shower pump? probably pumps water to the showerhead straight from the holding tank, not the box. I can see that if the shower drain was at or below water level that a sump pump would be needed. This is likely your ?box,? a sump compartment for wastewater from the shower and sink. You could verify function of the box by pouring some water down the shower drain and checking the box to see if the water starts to run in. Sounds like the pump in the box is switched only by the float switch, (without a manual operation switch), while the bilge pump in the engine compartment is only activated manually. I?d probably start by going ahead and replacing the switch. The mercury float switches are known to have a limited life span and it seems to me that chances are the switch is at fault. However, it?s usually not hard to run along a powered lead with a tester and find the point where the problem lies, (if) you have easy access to wires and connections. Personally, if the boat is more that 3 or 4 years old, I?d probably replace both pumps with the new automatic type. That way you could eliminate the separate switch in the box with a more reliable system plus giving you the peace of mind of having a fully automatic pump in the engine bilge while retaining the manual function as well.

 

[Boatin Bob]

Re: Bilge/Float Switch

The box you describe sounds like a shower sump, does it also have a float switch inside the box? as I don't believe the V750 has a built in switch like some others.

 

[Five O'Clock]

Re: Bilge/Float Switch

I will check this weekend, I only glanced at it 2 nights ago...

Jevery, I have 3 sinks on the boat, 1 in the head, 1 in the galley, and 1 on the deck for a wet bar. The faucet in the head doubles as a shower head, as I can pull the faucet out and hang it to use as a shower. That only turns on, as do the other 2 sinks, when the "water pump" breaker is turned on.

Boatin Bob, the shower sump box that has the V750 is probably 8 inches long by 5 inches thick. The V750 takes up about half of the room inside the box, since I haven't opened the box, my guess is that there is another float switch in the box in the open area.

I printed off the 3 installation manuals from attwood's website for the 2 pumps and the 1 float switch. I didn't know the 3 had test buttons so I'm going to try this Friday night.

 

[vdeodave]

Re: Bilge/Float Switch

I realize this post is 6 years old, but I have the exact same question on my Monterey and am wondering what you found? I have 2-3 inches of water in the area under the stairs and the random float switch is confusing. No switch for it or anything.
I'd love to hear what you found out. I have a 2000 Monterey 262 cruiser with the same set up as you described.

Thanks!
Dave

 

[Don S]

Re: Bilge/Float Switch

Please start a new thread of your own per our forum rules. http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=397820