Looking for wiring diagram/help please

Old Ironmaker

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We are working on Little Buddy's 1985 Grew 237 Cuddy. Of course the wiring looks like a bowl of coloured spaghetti after all these years. Googled boat and model and have gotten reams of diagrams but can't read them and the diagrams are all jumbled up with other non related schematics, even a diagram for a human cornea is included!

Where can we find one and or where can we buy one? HIN tag at top Starboard side of transom is 2GR50008K485-237. There is a plate on the dash that says "ACF".

Thanks ahead of time all,
Johnny D
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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there are very few boat wiring schematics in existance

you will find the motor electrical schematic in the appropriate Mercruiser or Volvo factory manual, however very doubtful you will find a boat diagram

All manufacturers follow the same color code (SAE color code) [h=2]American Boat and Yacht Council Standards[/h]
BlackGroundNegative / Neutral Main Return
Blue-StripeTilt up and or trim outTilt and or trim circuits
BrownAlternator Charge LightGenerator Terminal or Alternator Auxiliary Terminal to Regulator
Generator ArmatureGenerator Armature to Regulator
PumpsCircuit Breaker or Switch to Pumps
Brown w/YellowBilge BlowersCircuit Breaker or Switch to Blower
Dark BlueCabin & InstrumentCircuit Breaker or Switch to Lights
Green or Green w/Yellow StripeBonding SystemGrounding Wires (if insulated)
Green StripeTilt down and/or trim inTilt and or trim circuits
GreyNavigation LightsCircuit Breaker or Switch to Lights
TachometerTachometer Sender to Gauge
Lt. BlueOil PressureOil Pressure Sender to Gauge
OrangeAccessory FeedAmmeter to Alternator or Generator
Common FeedDistribution Panel to Accessory Switch
FeedAccessory Circuit Breakers or Switches
PinkFuel GaugeFuel Gauge Sender to Gauge
PurpleIgnitionIgnition Switch to Coil & Electrical Instrument
Instrument FeedDistribution Panel Electrical Instruments
RedInstrument FeedDistribution Panel to Electrical Instruments
Power FeedsPositive Main Power (particularly un-fused)
TanWater temperatureWater temperature sender to gauge
YellowGenerator FieldGenerator to Regulator Field Terminal
GroundNegative / Neutral Main Return
Yellow w/RedStarting CircuitStarting Switch to Solenoid

COLOR ITEM USE
Wire / Conductor Sizes
Length (feet): Determined by measuring the length of the wire from the positive (+) power source connection to the electrical device and back to the negative (-) power source connection. Note that the power source connection may be the battery, panel-board or switchboard.
Current (amps): Determined by adding the total amps on a circuit.
Wire sizes not covered in Table C or Table D may be calculated by using the following formula:
After calculating the Circular Mil Area (CM), use Table B to determine the proper conductor size. The National Fire Protection Agency and Coast Guard require that the next larger conductor be used when the calculated CM area falls between two conductor sizes.
CM=K x l x L / E
CM = Circular Mil area of Conductors
K = 10.75 (Constant representing the mil-foot resistance of copper)
I = Current - amps
L = Length - feet
E = Voltage drop at load (in volts)
For Example...
Q. A bilge pump draws 10 amps. The positive run is 11 feet from the power panel, including the float switch. The negative run is only 10 feet. What size wire?
A. Use the following formula to reach the correct answer:
CM = 10.75 x 10 (amps) x 21 (total length of run) / 0.36 (3% of 12v) = 6,271
The table below shows that 12 AWG wire has a CM area of 6,500 and is the correct choice. However, SAE wire has a CM area of only 5,833. Under NFPA and USCG regulations, 10 SAE wire must be used.
CM = 10.75 x 10 (amps) x 21 (total length of run) / 0.96 (3% of 32v) = 2,352
Ampacity is the ultimate safe current carrying capacity of the wire before damage occurs to the insulation, without regard to voltage drop. Because the insulation of most SAE wire types is not the same as ANCOR, this chart should not be used for other conductor types. Use Table C & D to find proper wire size to insure adequate performance.
180.81,6001,5372017
1612,6002,3362521
1424,1003,7023530
1236,5005,8334538
10510,5009,3436051
8816,80014,8108068
61326,60024,538120102
41942,00037,360160130
23266,50062,450210178
14083,69077,790245208
1/050105,60098,980285242
2/062133,100125,100330280
3/081167,800158,600385327
4/0103211,600205,500445378

AWG Sq. mm AWG CM area SAE CM Area Ampacity Engine Space
Outside Inside
 

Old Ironmaker

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Thanks scott Danforth. That was fast. The guys at the building aren't computer savvy, actually can't turn one on. They think that the Internet has every piece of information ever recorded by mankind. I have tried to tell those old fogies there isn't an operating procedure for launching and landing the Space Shuttle but they think so.

Thanks again Scott.
 

Old Ironmaker

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It's a Mercruiser but not sure of the displacement, will know for certain in the morning as the boys are coming by for a coffee with some Zooma Zoom, after they clean my driveway covered in all this stupid white stuff with the tractor.
 

alldodge

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Have some stuff for Merc. Being a 1985 could mean Pre of Post BIA wiring. Most the wiring is the same, the issue we run into is if its using current standards or the older stuff. Knowing what motor will also help. It probably will be current standards or at least real close to it
 
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Hi Guys, I'd like to jump in on this thread to say THANKS for the great information. Scott's post above shows what a treasure trove of information is available on the forums. I've been lurking for awhile, trying to figure out which boat I'd like for a project. (Keeping in mind my kids and grand kids want to ski & tube) Last Saturday I found a pretty good 1994 Sea Ray 170. I was able to test drive it on Lake Granbury for an hour or so, and poke around on the hull and floor. Ran good and seemed solid. So of course, it followed me home...

So, "Thanks" to everyone here. Because of you, I was able to pretend I knew what the hell I was doing...
 

Silvertip

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Hi Guys, I'd like to jump in on this thread to say THANKS for the great information. Scott's post above shows what a treasure trove of information is available on the forums. I've been lurking for awhile, trying to figure out which boat I'd like for a project. (Keeping in mind my kids and grand kids want to ski & tube) Last Saturday I found a pretty good 1994 Sea Ray 170. I was able to test drive it on Lake Granbury for an hour or so, and poke around on the hull and floor. Ran good and seemed solid. So of course, it followed me home...

So, "Thanks" to everyone here. Because of you, I was able to pretend I knew what the hell I was doing...


I can assure you that if you bought a boat -- you didn't know what you were doing and your wife/significant other would agree with you. Just joshin' of course.
 

Old Ironmaker

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Like many things sometimes we know just enough to be dangerous. As far as electricity I bow to the experts, I have to call an electrician to change the batteries in my flashlights.
 
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Ha! Ya'll are correct alright!! This is not my first boat, however, so I already know I'm setting myself up for some pain!! I retired a few months ago, and now find myself itching for a project...... so a 27 year old boat with a Mercruiser 3.0 ought to keep me off the streets, except to chase parts or something..
 

Scott Danforth

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when I retire, I hope to have all the boat projects behind me so I can enjoy them..... the street-rod projects....... thats a completely different story.
 
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I can sure relate to that, Scott. Spent the last 37 years working in the car and truck industry, hope to never work on trucks again!
Boats, now that is a different story, I still enjoy tinkering on things, although at a much slower pace. I'm determined to keep this boat project FUN.

Hmmm, wonder how long that Happy Horses$hit will last?
 

Old Ironmaker

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Scott I brought the print out you gave here to the building today. It is very helpful, the boys would like to thank you and everyone elses help here,

AllDodge I forgot to ask what size Merc it is. I'll remember Monday.

HappyMotoring, best to you in your retirement and on your project. I've been out of a real job for over 10 years now. The lady I work full time for says if I do a good job she will let me sleep with her, I have a sign I hang around my neck now that says "Will work for food." Get one.
 

Scott Danforth

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Thanks. however ABYC simply uses the SAE J378 which is a derivation of the Automotive codes. the colors are the same if you look under the dash of your car.
 
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old Ironmaker, thanks for the encouragement. I've certainly slowed down a bunch, but still enjoy working on some project or three. I put in about 2 hours a day on my hobbies, keeps me halfway sane.
 
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