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Grady-White Console Rewire

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  • Grady-White Console Rewire

    I have an older '82 Grady-White and am thinking of rewire the console switches and gauges. My plan is to replace the old fuse block as well as switches with push style led circuit breaker switches. I'd like to put ancillary items such as fish finder, vhf radio, fans etc on the fuse block and all else on the push switches. The wiring is a nightmare of splices and mixed up colors. Everything works as it should "but" I just can't stand the mess anymore. Plan on cutting all the wires at the wiring harness were all the wiring heads out of the console going back to the stern. In that way I can remove the whole console from the boat and work on everything on the bench. When I cut the wiring harness I want to use a water tight box with a "punch" block, like phone company uses, to re-attach the two ends. Haven't bought anything yet but looking for some suggestions.
    Last edited by LX Kid; October 6th, 2017, 05:22 PM.
    sigpic 1982 Grady White 241 Weekender, Outdrive Pre-Alpha, GM 305 V8 Engine Model 228 w/Edelbrock 1409 Carb. Bought 9/1/08 (Took 2 years to get it lauched)

  • #2
    you are making a bigger headache than simply fixing the one or two spliced wires properly

    skip the punch block. that is a connection nightmare waiting to happen. works well in a house with 24 gauge wire where there is no vibration. all the wires will break off as where they are punched after about a week of use. not to mention the connection density is too high, and the block will melt due to the current going thru it. face it, phone systems work on millivolts. that block will short out and melt with the current going thru your boat harness

    never add connections like you are planning. always work from the harness connector.

    use ring lugs, heat shrink and screw terminals to a proper marine terminal block

    you can buy new wiring harness extensions that go from the helm back to the motor. or if you re-wire, make sure you use proper tinned marine wire

    I myself would not go thru the hassle and would properly repair only what is needed and go boating
    1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - http://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

    Past Boats
    1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
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    What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari

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    • #3
      Telephone company uses solid wire. Hope you don't plan on doing that as it cannot stand vibration. Nor would stranded wire work with the punch block. Punch blocks are not rated for high current applications either. Better re-think that. The best approach for you would be to wire the console as you wish. Terminate the console harness with a water tight connector (there are many available types) and then the boat harness with the mating connector. Minimum wire size on a boat is 16 gauge and again, I doubt the punch block would handle that (reliably).

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      • #4
        Sounds like good advice. I rewired the console about five years ago just to get everything working and just left the "rat's nest" for another day. Maybe another day is coming soon. Trying to finish up the new transom, gimbal assembly and outdrive within the next few days.

        http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...ced-now-w-pics
        sigpic 1982 Grady White 241 Weekender, Outdrive Pre-Alpha, GM 305 V8 Engine Model 228 w/Edelbrock 1409 Carb. Bought 9/1/08 (Took 2 years to get it lauched)

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Silvertip View Post
          Telephone company uses solid wire. Hope you don't plan on doing that as it cannot stand vibration.
          Good point! Don't think I'll do that.
          sigpic 1982 Grady White 241 Weekender, Outdrive Pre-Alpha, GM 305 V8 Engine Model 228 w/Edelbrock 1409 Carb. Bought 9/1/08 (Took 2 years to get it lauched)

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          • #6
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            I replaced all the electrical hardware at the helm 3 years ago.

            Everything was lugged so it was easy to disconnect the wiring and takes the panel back to the shop to swap out the hardware. Just makes sure to mark the wires as you takes then off. The Grady wiring diagrams where pretty accurate.

            Spent a couple of hours untangle the mess. Not to bad by the time I put it back together.

            Used blue seas fuse blocks to replace the stock phenolic fuse panels. Stayed with fuse holders on the discrete wiring (donít like circuit breakers on a boat) and Contira rocket switches.
            ....

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