add a battery ,ignition problem

alldodge

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keeps telling me pics are corrupted ,looking at fuse panel pic, red wire comes from thunderbolt ignition from engine to fuse panel then wire from original fuses from switches and ignition connect to fuse panel and last wire is run from blue sea add a batt switch to fuse panel /40 amp circuit breaker near add a batt does this help bruceb58 will have to take new pics tonight

I think we may have a winner.
There should be no direct connection from the fuse panel to the ignition. The ignition should come ONLY from the key switch
 

wrench 3

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red wire going to fuse panel, first one from thunderbolt ignition (which was originally attached to original fuses under all switches and ignition )

Is that wire connected directly to the ignition or is it just going to the engine harness? I think that it's more likely coming from the battery post on the starter solenoid via the circuit breaker on the engine.
If that's the case it needs to be separated from the blue sea! As mentioned in posts 18 and 19.
We need to know what's going on at the back of the ignition switch and is there a fuse for the gauges?
 
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newtoboat101

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newtoboat101

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i have tried so many things pardon the appearance ok, pic1 add a batt ,circuit breaker for accessories,auto charging relay,and ground post not in pic ground to motor from starter batt,pic 2 thunderbolt iv plug (red wire from ignition which goes to starter,runs up boat to behind dash and connects to switches and ignition fuses ,this is all original and still using original fuse set up with switches and ignition see my previous pics of dash with switches,as per #18-19 i added a second fuse panel and ran only the red wire from engine to this, but same result pic 3 is my 50 amp circuit breaker for engine pic6 is back of switches and ignition switch i feel wrench3 post #43 is close remember everything works properly,just gauges and switches all light up and operate where before i had to turn key to get that response have not started motor after all this so ya it might start and not turn off with key ,i just have fogger close and drown to shut down,lol
 

km1125

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You need to start using punctuation, sentences and paragraphs!!!

Is this accurate?:

Pic 1: shows add a batt switch, circuit breaker for accessories, auto charging relay, and ground post - not in pic is the ground to motor from starter batt,

Pic 2 shows the thunderbolt iv plug

Pic 3 is my 50 amp circuit breaker for engine. (red wire from ignition which goes to starter,runs up boat to behind dash and connects to switches and ignition fuses ,this is all original and still using original fuse set up with switches and ignition). See my previous pics of dash with switches,as per #18-19 i added a second fuse panel and ran only the red wire from engine to this, but same result

Pic 4 is messed up, but only shows the bottom of the new switch panel. (There is now only one lead there... what happened to the other two?)

Pic 5 shows the top of the new fuse panel and the two ground buss bars

Pic 6 is the back of switches and ignition switch.

I feel wrench3 post #43 is close. Remember everything works properly, it's just gauges and switches all light up and operate as soon as I turn the battery switch on where before i had to turn key to get that response. I have not started motor after all this, so, yea, it might start and not turn off with key - I just need to have a can of fogger close and drown it to shut it down!

From pic 3 (back of panel showing ign switch), it looks like the purple wire, which I think should be your Ignition wire, also feeds your blower and bilge pump switch, is that right?? Also in that pic (below), where does that big red wire in the lower right come from?

ign_switch_edited.jpg
 

alldodge

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Separated things so I can understand what your saying

i have tried so many things pardon the appearance ok,
pic1 add a batt ,circuit breaker for accessories,auto charging relay,and ground post not in pic ground to motor from starter batt,

pic 2 (Your TB-IV plug is called the 10 pin connector or cannon plug) thunderbolt iv plug (red wire from ignition which goes to starter,runs up boat to behind dash and connects to switches and ignition fuses,this is all original and still using original fuse set up with switches and ignition see my

previous pics of dash with switches,as per #18-19 i added a second fuse panel and ran only the red wire from engine to this, but same result

pic 3 is my 50 amp circuit breaker for engine

pic6 is back of switches and ignition switch

i feel wrench3 post #43 is close remember everything works properly,just gauges and switches all light up and operate where before i had to turn key to get that response have not started motor after all this so ya it might start and not turn off with key ,i just have fogger close and drown to shut down,lol

You currently have power being supplied to the fuse block from the original wiring. Somehow the motor has power being supplied from something that was installed.

Try this, on the new bluesea fuse block, pull all the fuses, then start putting them back in one at a time. Reason to pull all fuses is in case you have more then one supplying power
 

newtoboat101

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km1125 (start arrow) i believe this wire goes to the side mount throttle box,will have to check that to be 100% sure ,(On an auto it would connect to a neutral safety switch),What's this red wire? that is the red wire from 10 pin connector that runs up to and connects to fuse for ignition and splits off to switch fuses (all Original), will try and pull fuses one at a time and check all dodge,also alldodge 3 red wires that were all connected together at fuse panel ,i used #18-19 suggestion and added a separate fuse panel for that red wire from 10 pin connector ,Sorry pic is bad that's the picture to show you that i added fuse panel , that's why you do not see them connected together any more but no change in problem
 

wrench 3

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I'm glad to see that your now calling it the 10 pin connector instead of the Thunderbolt IV. I think that it was causing some confusion.
You need to find out where the gauges are getting there juice from. That is why AllDodge wants you to pull the fuses and then replace them one at a time until the gauges come on. The terminal on the ignition switch with three wires on it. One goes to the switches. One presumably goes back to the engine for the ignition. Where does the other one go?
 

km1125

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The terminal on the ignition switch with three wires on it. One goes to the switches. One presumably goes back to the engine for the ignition. Where does the other one go?
I was trying to figure that one out too, from the picture. Looks like the purple wire, which I think should be the "IGN" position on the switch, goes to some switches and I was guessing one other one goes to the guages and one goes to the harness back to the engine ignition.

WHY would it go to the switches too, specifically the blower and bilge pump? Do those only operate when the engine is on? This would not be desired, as you'd want to run the blower several minutes well before you switched the engine on. Same with the bilge pump... you'd want to be able to run that with the engine on or off.

If there is a separate power feed to either of those two circuits, then that's probably where the problem is when power is getting to the gauges when the battery switch is on. The confusing part to me is that those wires (the purple) look stock, like they were there originally.
 

alldodge

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Have to agree all those switches should not be powered from the ignition switch, they should be able to run without turning the key. Having 3 purple wires on the switch doesn't look right. The purple going to the switches should come direct from the battery, like have it connected to the red wire on the key switch
 

wrench 3

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I've seen blowers etc wired through the key switch before but only on switches with an accessory position. Maybe a previous owner replaced a four position switch with the three position one.
It still doesn't explain the current problem though.
 

newtoboat101

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ok just geting back to eveyone on this problem ,after getting outdrive on and boat running ,the problem with the dash lights and gauges remedied its self and is functioning fine ,maybe have been weak batteries that needed to be charged thru altenator to fix blue sea charger, now the problem i have is when boat is running and shift out of neutral either forward or reverse all my house battery stuff shuts off (radio,lights, horn ,blower , bilge 1, wipers ) put back in neutral all comes back on just saw past saturday so did not have chance to diagnose ,thought i would throw out there see what guys come up with thank you
 

alldodge

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The wire to the shift interrupter should come from the distributer, it sounds like you have it connected to the purple wire (main power)
 

newtoboat101

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ok found problem,the cotter pin that holds brass shift adjustment at the motor,is contacting the bolt underneath it and is turning accessories on ,opposite of normal where pin would short out electric this is turning on when contacts any ideas on what to do when I pull pin off bolt I et no accessories re install pin contact nut underneath everything goes on help please
 

newtoboat101

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if I take brass shift nut out and touch it to bolt with it ,the contact turns everything on
 

wrench 3

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It sounds like your accessories are having to ground through the shift cable. The original ground for the gauges runs back through the ten pin plug to the engine. They probably had everything else up front grounded to that originally. what do you have the ground buss on the new fuse panel grounded too?
 

newtoboat101

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i think I got it ,added negative battery cable from accessories battery neg post to engine block and it worked ,second battery wasn't properly grounded
 
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