Options for running a 5a switch on a 15a circuit?

waterboy222

waterboy222

Seaman
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Dec 5, 2011
Messages
56
I am rebuilding my dash panels and have hit a snag. All of my switches are labeled 15a and the switches I ordered are all 5a.. Do I have any options besides running relays? In a 40' boat that is going to be a lot of wiring.....
 
H

HT32BSX115

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waterboy222 said:
I am rebuilding my dash panels and have hit a snag. All of my switches are labeled 15a and the switches I ordered are all 5a.. Do I have any options besides running relays? In a 40' boat that is going to be a lot of wiring.....
Click to expand...
You could use relays but that would require a lot more wiring and you introduce additional failure points. I also suggest using switches that will handle the current. Unless all the powered items are using less than 5A, using lower rated switches will eventually result in burned contacts and failure.
 
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km1125

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I'd recommend getting the switches changed out. If that would be a big deal, then you could see which circuits actually would need the higher current and just use relays on those circuits.
 
waterboy222

waterboy222

Seaman
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Messages
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I appreciate everyones input. I know the easiest solution at this time would be to "just buy the right switches"... But here is my issue, the dash panels that I had made were designed around these switches. If I scrap the panels and start over, I'd hate myself because they are a beautiful piece of art.

The switches I "should" use are made by Bocatech and are anywhere from $45-$65 Each... And I need 24 of them... $1500 is not in the budget right now. So I did a little more homework on my switch panels and I think I have it figured out how this setup would work. Apparently Carver/Trojan doesn't use any rocker switch below 15a. I assume that's because its the lowest rated amperage for the Eaton E-Sport switches that came from the factory.

But do I really need a 15amp switch? From what I can tell, it is overkill. If I finished the LED conversion on the NAV and ANC lights, I would be below the listed amperage of the 6 AMP switches I have. On Panels 2 and 3, I would need to use Carling rocker switches that are rated for high amperage but the main panel would be ok, I think?

PANEL 1:
ACC1 - Nothing connected
ACC2 - Nothing connected
ACC3 - Nothing connected
FWD BILGE - Johnson Pump 1250 GPH listed at 3A
MID BILGE - Johnson Pump 1250 GPS listed at 3A
AFT BILGE - JABSCO 37202 Sump/Bilge Pump listed at 8A
ENG. LIGHTS - Converted to LED last year, 1.8A
COURTESY LIGHTS - Converted to LED, 2A
RADAR ARCH LIGHTS - Converted to LED, 2A
NAV LIGHTS - Need to be converted from incandescent
ANC. LIGHT - Need to be converted from incandescent
PANEL LIGHTS - Converted to LED, 2A

PANEL 2:
BLOWERS - 2 x ATTWOOD Turbo 4000 Series II, listed at 2.5A
PORT TABS - Bennett Trim Tab HPU, can't find the amperage listing online
STBD TABS - Bennett Trim Tab HPU, can't find the amperage listing online
HORN - Dual Trumpet, 20A

PANEL 3:
IGN ON/OFF PORT
IGN ON/OFF PORT
PORT START
STBD START

My next question is about the electrical panel. If there is a circuit breaker on the panel that is listed as 15A and I use a 6A switch and only pulling 2A-3A from the unit I am controlling, do I need to switch out the circuit breaker? Will it be an issue having a higher listed circuit breaker than the switch and electrical item?
Thank you to those that didn't just blow me off and say to buy something different. I need to try to find a solution that doesn't involve $1500 worth of new switches and $500 worth of new panels. I need to try to make these work..
 
waterboy222

waterboy222

Seaman
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Messages
56
Here is the look that the dash panels are mimicking. If I go with a carling rocker switch, the switch covers hit the dash and hang over the edge of the panel and cover up the laser etching... The switches I have look identical to these and were told they were the same ones. But Cobalt uses relays to run their switches instead of a heavier amperage switch.
 

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km1125

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Messages
496
waterboy222 said:
I appreciate everyones input. I know the easiest solution at this time would be to "just buy the right switches"... But here is my issue, the dash panels that I had made were designed around these switches. If I scrap the panels and start over, I'd hate myself because they are a beautiful piece of art.

The switches I "should" use are made by Bocatech and are anywhere from $45-$65 Each... And I need 24 of them... $1500 is not in the budget right now. So I did a little more homework on my switch panels and I think I have it figured out how this setup would work. Apparently Carver/Trojan doesn't use any rocker switch below 15a. I assume that's because its the lowest rated amperage for the Eaton E-Sport switches that came from the factory.

But do I really need a 15amp switch? From what I can tell, it is overkill. If I finished the LED conversion on the NAV and ANC lights, I would be below the listed amperage of the 6 AMP switches I have. On Panels 2 and 3, I would need to use Carling rocker switches that are rated for high amperage but the main panel would be ok, I think?

PANEL 1:
ACC1 - Nothing connected
ACC2 - Nothing connected
ACC3 - Nothing connected
FWD BILGE - Johnson Pump 1250 GPH listed at 3A
MID BILGE - Johnson Pump 1250 GPS listed at 3A
AFT BILGE - JABSCO 37202 Sump/Bilge Pump listed at 8A
ENG. LIGHTS - Converted to LED last year, 1.8A
COURTESY LIGHTS - Converted to LED, 2A
RADAR ARCH LIGHTS - Converted to LED, 2A
NAV LIGHTS - Need to be converted from incandescent
ANC. LIGHT - Need to be converted from incandescent
PANEL LIGHTS - Converted to LED, 2A

PANEL 2:
BLOWERS - 2 x ATTWOOD Turbo 4000 Series II, listed at 2.5A
PORT TABS - Bennett Trim Tab HPU, can't find the amperage listing online
STBD TABS - Bennett Trim Tab HPU, can't find the amperage listing online
HORN - Dual Trumpet, 20A

PANEL 3:
IGN ON/OFF PORT
IGN ON/OFF PORT
PORT START
STBD START
Click to expand...
Looks like for the most part you're going to be OK. You need to do something with the horn if you can't upgrade that switch. A relay would be perfect for that (that's what they've been doing on cars for 60+years). Same with the bilge pump, if you can't upgrade that switch. I would recheck the current on the blowers, mine take almost 10A total... is that 2.5A each or with both of them on?

The tabs won't be an issue... those switches just control solenoids that should only be a couple amps.

waterboy222 said:
My next question is about the electrical panel. If there is a circuit breaker on the panel that is listed as 15A and I use a 6A switch and only pulling 2A-3A from the unit I am controlling, do I need to switch out the circuit breaker? Will it be an issue having a higher listed circuit breaker than the switch and electrical item?
Click to expand...
No, if you didn't swap any wiring. The breaker really is there to protect the wiring feeding the device, but it can also protect larger devices like blowers or motors if there is a "locked rotor" condition. It will not protect something like a bilge pump though, so those should have their own fuses to protect from 'locked rotor' conditions.
 
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