Need help on identify wiring device

[SammyWestHartford]

Hi, I am new to boating and just bought an older 16 ft utility boat as a starter boat. Boat has a small switch box for working bilge pump, live well pump, and lights; and they were working. During the course of cleaning the battery box one of the cable was broken/disconnected from an electronic device that I have no idea what it is. Now none of the pumps and lights would work. Would someone please identify what that electronic device is. Please see attached pic for the device.

Thank you!
Sam

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,.... Looks kinda like a fuse holder, with room for a spare fuse, maybe to a radio once upon a time,.....

 

[Alumarine]

I think Bondo is correct but he may not have noticed where you said "Now none of the pumps and lights would work"

If you find the wire that broke off that may solve your problem.

 

[SammyWestHartford]

Thank you both for responding!

I do see the wire where it broke off. I am hoping to identify the unknown device so that I could buy another one and reconnect the broken wire to it. As you can see there is simply one of those splice connector to the right of the device and there isn't much wire coming out from the device which I can reconnect the broken wire to.

 

[wrench 3]

Newer boats use a fuse holder like this one http://www.iboats.com/Waterproof-ATC-Fuse-Holder/dm/view_id.56341&s=sol they take a standard blade type automotive fuse.

 

[SammyWestHartford]

Thank you gentlemen. It is a fuse.

I removed it from the boat and cut it open (actually it could simply be pulled open) and found a fuse, along with a spare. Looked closer I believe it says "BUSS AGC 20" on one end of the fuse, and 32V on the other end. The fuse is between the POSITIVE terminal of the battery and a red wire coming out from the main wiring underneath the floor. And again, none of pumps or lights on the boat is working right now. Could I simply get the waterproof fuse holder with a 20A automotive blade fuse and reconnect everything?

 

[GA_Boater]

Welcome aboard, Sammy.

Something like this would be good.

One like this might be a little better because the cover can be attached to something solid and the wires won't be flopping around.

Both of these are blade fuse holders.

 

[Alumarine]

Does the switch box not have built in fuses?
If it doesn't, you might be better off with each device having its own fuse holder, say 5 amps.

 

[SammyWestHartford]

Thank you for the suggestions on fuse holder and using 5 amp fuse. As I might have just burn out the live well pump. How did I do that? There are two other 20 amp fuses connected between the POSITIVE terminal of the battery and two thick orange wires. To find out what they are for I grabbed the broken wire and touch it to the POSITIVE terminal of the battery directly and tested all three electrical devices (namely bilge pump, live well pump, and light) while removing each of the two 20 amp fuses. The tests showed that removing any one the two 20 amp fuses affect nothing. All the pumps and lights still work. But after switching on and off the live well pump a few times now it doesn't run except making some clicking noise. LOL.

Anyway, I will install 5 amp fuse to the two pumps and light. It might not be necessary but I will go ahead and replace the broken 20 amp fuse (the "unknown device") also.

 

[SammyWestHartford]

Oh, Marc C, I missed your question on "does the switch box not have built in fuses?" Good question, I need to check it out. My boat is a 1998 Misty Harbor 16 SST. The switch box looks pretty rudimentary. I will find out.

 

[Silvertip]

The white fuse holder you removed is the MAIN fuse for the electrical system. Replace it with either of the blade type holders you show. A 20 amp fuse should be fine. 5 amps might be a bit light for any of the pumps -- fine for lights. Pumps are best served by a 7.5 amp fuse.

 

[SammyWestHartford]

Thank you for the heads up. I will check the spec of the pump for amp usage.