ACR or DVSR

alldodge

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Decided to remove my 3-bank isolator and leaning toward DVSR over ACR. Sent an email to Blue Sea and received no response (5 days). In review of online documentation I noticed a possible issue with the ACR over the DVSR. The ACR was unclear as what effect the battery charger would be and how it needed to be wired. The DVSR did not comment with the same issue from what I read.

Current setup

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Current plan

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May install second, undecided right now. All 3-Batts are charged at dock. Under way, there is no current way to connect all 3 or to use Gen Bat to help start. If Gen is fired up it can be used to charge all 3 with Bat charger.

Slide8.JPG
 

sam am I

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Might give this a shot Dodge.......Zero'ish drop/loss when ig/engine is on, totally isolates all batts w engine off, priority charging/prevents back charging (routes current to lowest batt w/o paralleling the low battery with other full batteries), manages all batteries w either the alt or battery charger.....Works for me anyway, my "charger" is a Honda OB w 15Amp output but, I've substituted a on-board, works just ducky ;) image_256303a.JPG
 
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alldodge

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Well Sam you gave me some more to read. Don't know what the "lg" means, and what appears to be diodes in line feeding the unit. I have a 3-bank charger which I don't want to replace (not that old), and this shows some promise. Would need to find out if it can work with my current setup as shown above. Down loaded the manual and it shows connection and I'm reading through it
 

sam am I

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"ig" = ignition (on) and if your 3 bank charger is a floating output type, you can tie all 3 outputs together in parallel......triples the current output. The ProM manages the charging as if it was your alternator. Voltage/current source is a voltage/current, it doesn't care......

As a simple test, I have and used a cheapo 1.5 amp 3 phase trickle schumacher with my 3 batts hooked up to the ProM as seen in the drawing and although it took a few days, the ProM went through each battery individually (any order) with only the available schumacher's whimpy 1.5 amp until each was individually topped off (float phase i assume) then it went back and started combining them together until all 3 were in parallel in float phase by day 2 or 3, worked quite well..........Add more current = less time.

They're a good design and esp. if you're not running for example hefty alts like 200 amp or whatever (i have only 40A) were when paralleling dis-charged batts with full batts are reverse charging on each other because as you know, the alt's supply voltage is sagging due to current limiting (40 amp my case), these work very nice because it takes out and isolates your full batt and supplies all the current to the lowest batts all in turn
 
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alldodge

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Ok with ignition, but don't plan to parallel the outputs even if it would do it, kind of defeats the purpose of the 3-bank charger. What ever I use needs to work with current design. The manual didn't list anything like diodes which I think is shown in your pic?

If this is used the sense lead from the ALT needs to be connected to the point shown. If this is needed to work, then another lead is need to run from the motor to this point. Also must run another lead from purple ignition wire to the Ignition connection. That is if I'm understanding the documentation correctly

ProM.jpg
 

sam am I

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The manual didn't list anything like diodes which I think is shown in your pic?

Using 2 independent (same ground ref tho) feeds to turn on the ProM required current steering to prevent feedback, my design........

That is if I'm understanding the documentation correctly

Yes, I missed re-routing that in your drawing I edited (orange wire)......apologies. My reg's/rec sense lead/s tie at this point. Your alt's sense lead would tie at this point as per the manu's instructions.

It meets my needs and has worked flawlessly for two full seasons on my fishing boat with lots of loads here and there, but as we know, opinions vary like the tides here, mileage may vary depending on your needs........oh, it also delays any other batts connections to the start batt during startup..........keep s spikes and sags out of house stuff's tronics.
 
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bruceb58

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connect the inputs to the ACR at the output of your battery switch so the ACR is disconnected from the batteries when the switches are off. This way, the battery charger won't cause the ACR to combine the batteries with the engine off.
 

alldodge

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Thanks Bruce appreciate your input, but I want a setup which works without changes to current setup, and hopefully better. So far the only issue with the isolator is the 0.7V drop. The ACR or the Promariner setup has issues. From what I'm seeing is the DVSR will do what I want without changes in switches or wiring
 

bruceb58

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As far as I know, a DVSR and an ACR is the exact same thing. I am just suggesting where to connect the device to. In your drawings, either will connect with the battery charger on so all 3 batteries will be connected while the 3 bank charger is on. I am assuming that is what you don't want right?

So what DVSR are you selecting?

Are you saying you are wanting to use existing wiring that goes to your isolator and have that go to the ACR/DVSR?
 

alldodge

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Blue Sea is showing issues that one certain post has to be connected to which battery, they cannot be switched, this isn't a concern. The issue which is, is the start isolation feature and feed back. It's not clear, and the DVSR makes no difference and there is no comment or even connection for such a concern.

Guess the real plus is the Marico BP DVSR is cheaper then the Blue Sea one
 

bruceb58

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I like the Marinco's storage mode which makes sure it only connects when ignition is on. The BlueSea doesn't have that feature which is needed if you use a 1/2/both type switch.

What it doesn't have is a safety feature that the BlueSea has so that it won't connect if the battery voltage is too low which would happen if you had a battery with an internal shorted cell. Of course that makes it an issue charging a battery that you have run flat.

As far as I know, the BlueSea's posts are identical. I own 2 of them and never read anything other than that.
 

alldodge

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It is the start isolation circuit. This doesn't have to be connected, but it list

The 7610 ACR can be configured to automatically disconnect when the starting circuit is engaged. Enable this feature to isolate the start circuit from the house circuits and prevent starting currents from flowing through the ACR or starting current transients from interfering with loads on other batteries. The reaction time of the 7610 ACR is fast enough to disconnect the battery banks before the starting current rises in the starting circuit.

Gives me the impression that this can happen if this circuit is not added
 

alldodge

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The DVSR does have the safety that Blue Sea has

Isolation: [FONT=Helvetica LT Std,Helvetica LT Std][FONT=Helvetica LT Std,Helvetica LT Std]When the DVSR senses that batteries are not being charged (voltage drops to 12.8V DC or 25.6V DC) the DVSR deactivates following a 20 second delay, separating the combined battery banks into two isolated banks. [/FONT][/FONT]
 

bruceb58

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It is the start isolation circuit. This doesn't have to be connected, but it list
Yes, the Blue Sea has that feature. Not sure if that is what you are saying or not.

I don't think the Marinco one actually disconnects if one battery is still being charged. At least that is what I am reading.
BlueSea has an undervoltage lockout at 9.5V and reset at 10.0V. I think the spec you are reading is just the voltage at which it doesn't see 12.8V from both of the sides meaning the charging source has stopped.
 

sam am I

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I want a setup which works without changes to current setup, and hopefully better. So far the only issue with the isolator is the 0.7V drop.
image_256303b.JPG

I didn't show my Honda OB second charge source setup as I had up in #2 and have edited this to be more inline with your setup with only a small mod of replacing your old iso and adding the ProM.........For winter storage, I have three 1.5A trickle chargers attached directly to the batts as shown here but, same difference as your three output charger which I think ends up being what your after I think
 
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