Jon Boat Switch Panel Question

maza62

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 4, 2013
Messages
32
I know this has been talked about a hundred times and I have read them all but my small brain can't organize this. My situation is that I have a starting battery for my 1980 25hp evinrude O/B and I want to add a switch panel to control nav lights, a light bar, interior strip lights, and a trolling motor. If I purchase this switch

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It says it has fuses with it, so do need to purchase this fuse panel

Mod EDIT

Do I need to purchase another battery to operate this or run it all from the O/B starting battery? How should I set up the trolling motor to the switch or should I just get another battery to directly run to the trolling motor? Also what gauge wires should I use for each one of these accessories? The company says the fuses are: The max amp is 15A for the USB and 2 switches and also 15A for the power socket and the other 2 switches. Is that sufficient? Can I run bow and all around lights to one switch?

This Light Bar I was looking at is:

Mod EDIT

Not sure what wires need to go where. Just unsure of this all and want to do it right. I am in the Coast Guard and sadly I don't have these skills (willing to accept trash talk), so thanks for helping a rookie out.

Alex
 
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jbcurt00

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Please remember Iboats is an online retailer and dont post links to other vendors.

Iboats sells switch panels, fuse panels and light bars
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,758
The switch panel you show has built-in circuit breakers so you don't need the separate fuse panel. But what you really need to do is get a handle on basic 12 volt DC wiring. This is way beyond what I'm willing to type out here because tutorials are on-line and basic books in the library. That said, here is rundown of what you can, should, and must NOT do:
1) You run a #10 gauge wire from the positive battery post to a separate 20 amp circuit breaker within one foot of the battery. This protects the wiring between the battery and the new panel.
2) From the other terminal on the breaker, run the #10 wire to the INPUT of that new switch panel.
3) You DO NOT wire your trolling motor to this fuse panel. Why? Because the trolling motor draws much more current than the fuse panel can handle. The troller must be wired directly to the start battery (not recommended) or to a separate DEEP CYCLE battery.
4) Each switch on the new panel has a LINE and a LOAD side. The line side is the INPUT to the switch so all of those switches will be powered when the panel is connected to the battery. The LOAD side of each switch is what feeds whatever device (lights etc.) you want that switch to control.
5) If the new panel has a ground bus (a common ground connection) then the ground connection from each device connects to it. If it does not have ground bus, you need to add one in the vicinity of the panel.
6) A #10 ground wire connects the ground bus (separate or the one on the new panel) to the negative terminal on the battery.
7) You asked about the nav lights. You need to understand that the bow and all around lights are both on ONLY when under way. At anchor, only the all around light must be on. So a simple on-off switch cannot do both functions. You need a special NAV light switch (a push-pull multi-position) type or an ON-OFF-ON type. Wiring of these switches is confusing to the novice but the topic is beat to death on this forum. Google and the search feature on this forum is your friend.

Finally, since you will need a deep cycle battery for the troller and nothing on your boat other than the troller draws much current, you can wire the new panel to either the start battery or the troller. Keep in mind the small engine will NOT keep the troller battery charged so you will also need to decide how you intend to do that. You can add an on-board charger that permanently mounts in the boat and you plug it into 110 volt house current at the dock or at home. You can also use a portable charger but again, it must be connected to house current. You ALWAYS charge the troller battery immediately AFTER each use. Not before you leave on a trip. Batteries do not like being left in a partially discharged state.
 
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maza62

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 4, 2013
Messages
32
Very very much appreciated. Do you recommend any particular book? Also what gauge wire should I use for the nav light, light bar, etc.?

Thanks again very helpful

Alex
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,758
16 gave for most accessories. 10 gave from battery to panel. What is the current draw for the light bar.
 

mjf55

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 17, 2014
Messages
462
The 12 Volt Doctor's Practical Handbook: For Boat Systems is a good starter guide for someone with no 12 Volt experience.
 

maza62

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 4, 2013
Messages
32
Book is on order thanks for the recommendation.
The light bar is 30 volts with 50 watts.
Question with the 20 amp circuit breaker, one post says bat and the other aux. Does it matter which post runs to the battery and which to the switch panel? I assume it battery positive line runs to bat post. Or do I run both lines to the same post?
 
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Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,758
How do you intend to run a 30 volt light bar from a 12 volt system? 30 volts is an odd power requirement for any auto or marine light. Sure you read the specs correctly. Positive goes to battery. Other terminal goes to the load (the device). You really need to read the book and no disrespect intended.
 
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