Stator Rewrap

Pusher

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My stator needs to be replaced. It's $147 to replace and I'm thinking of rewrapping it instead. I did this on a 1970's Suzuki PE 175 but that stator was quite a bit easier. How hard would this be to do? Has anyone done it?
 

GA_Boater

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What are you working on?

It has been done at least once by one of our members.
 

fhhuber

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need to know the gauges and turn counts of the wires.

Replicate the winding pattern (which wires in which layers)

Caution about nicking the fragile insulation on the wire. "magnet wire" often looks like it isn't insulated but it has a very thin layer.

Get it right and it will work.

you can make an adapter to chuck the core on a variable speed drill and use that to make the winding go faster.
But you have to keep track of turn count.
 

Pusher

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Very nice resouces, THANK YOU! I must not be using the site's search feature correctly :-/

If anyone has any info on adding a charging lead to the system I'd be interssted in that as well. Looks like I'm going to go for it! :) No reason not to as I see it. I'm actually excited about having a cocktail project after work.

Guess I'll need to measure the factory winding gauge before ordering that, and then probably get some tinned wire for new leads.
 

sam am I

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THANK YOU! I must not be using the site's search feature correctly :-/

You're very welcome......

1) Go here

2) **Type in "stator rewind site:forums.iboats.com" w/o quotes where stator rewind are the key search words or click here

3) Optionally sometimes a visual return works best/quicker, then click on "Images" at top of page or click here

**Some sites will sometimes detect "unusual activity" using this method of searching their sites and will ask you verify your not a bot attacking their servers by having you type a word image, iboats is no exception.

You can also use quotes above in step #2 around your key search words stator rewind to limit your search even more or click here

GL and if ya get a chance, can ya snap some pic's and post a few results, this is good stuff :)
 
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GA_Boater

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I'll ask again - What are you working on? It helps to know.

Is your stator potted, it a stator/trigger combo and how many wires are off of it?
 

Pusher

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You're very welcome......

1) Go [url]https://www.google.com/here[/URL]

2) **Type in "stator rewind site:forums.iboats.com" w/o quotes where stator rewind are the key search words or click [url]https://www.google.com/search?...3.3&ei=HefnV_3KK6nJjwSWwo2wCg&emsg=NCSR&noj=1here[/URL]

3) Optionally sometimes a visual return works best/quicker, then click on "Images" at top of page or click [url]https://www.google.com/search?...m=isch&q=stator+rewind+site:forums.iboats.comhere[/URL]

**Some sites will sometimes detect "unusual activity" using this method of searching their sites and will ask you verify your not a bot attacking their servers by having you type a word image, iboats is no exception.

You can also use quotes above in step #2 around your key search words stator rewind to limit your search even more or click [url]https://www.google.com/search?...tf-8#q="stator+rewind"+site:forums.iboats.comhere[/URL]

GL and if ya get a chance, can ya snap some pic's and post a few results, this is good stuff :)

Hey, I like that site referencing. That is VERY handy to know :) thanks again. I'll post some pics if I can successfully remove the plastic sheaving from the OEM.
 

Pusher

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I'll ask again - What are you working on? It helps to know.

Is your stator potted, it a stator/trigger combo and how many wires are off of it?

1989 Mercury 60hp 3 cylinder. 5 wires come out.

Stator 5704a 7
Trigger 96455a8

GA Boater, could you tell me where the 5th wire comes from? I'm guessing there's three sets of wires wrapping the stator, then a fourth is the ground. Would the fifth be a splice from one of the stator wires?

Would it be possible to add a battery charging line when I jump into this?
 

GA_Boater

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So your stator and trigger look like these? How did you determine the stator need fixing?

mercstat.PNGmerctrig.PNG




The 2 pieces above are OEM from Merc/Quicksilver. Are your parts potted like these? I suggest buying replacements.

The motor is already set up for battery charging off of the regulator. No need to reinvent the wheel.


Look at the wiring diagram from Boatinfo.no if you need a clearer diagram, it answers the questions;

mercwirdiag.PNG
 

Pusher

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image_252770.jpg Oh, that's good to know. I wonder why evryone doesn't have their batteries being recharged.

Yes, those are what I have. I tested them per the manual, but I didn't have high hopes as the original wires were cracking open. I might check the wires once removed and grounds checked to see if I could solder in new leads but I'm not holding my breath at this point.
 
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GA_Boater

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You need to remove the flywheel so the leads can be seen. The wires may be in better condition closer to the stator. And maybe not, but you need to look.
 

Pusher

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I'm hoping, but my luck is generally not so good.
The puller should show up on Tuesday. I think I'll have to melt the plastic coating if it's a rebuild. :-/
 

gm280

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Pusher, actually every coil, be it a stator, an exciter coil, a spark coil or whatever, uses enameled wire when wound. So they attach the colored stranded wires at some point near the actual windings. So if all you need are new exiting wires because of the insulation cracking, you could easily go into the coating and get to the solders points for those colored wires and solder new ones on. Then mix up some epoxy and apply over the coatings and you should be good to go again. NO it isn't a piece of cake, but it isn't that hard to do either. And for a little effort, you could save yourself lots of money. JMHO

If you think you will have to cut up the sealed coating too much on your stator, you can make a mold from the original stator before even cutting into it so that when you finish soldering new colored strand wire outlines, you could mix up some epoxy and set the stator into it to seal it all up again. Just an idea.
 

Pusher

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For just an idea, thats a fandanglin idea! I definitely didn't consider that. Okay, so with all of your help, I'll study those diagrams GA linked me to and I'll plan on accessing the stator solder points for further testing.

My leads were exposed at the entry point into the mold so I can see they are already shot too. That was quite the pick-me-up GM. With that kind of savings I might need to buy a quality soldering iron.
 

gm280

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For just an idea, thats a fandanglin idea! I definitely didn't consider that. Okay, so with all of your help, I'll study those diagrams GA linked me to and I'll plan on accessing the stator solder points for further testing.

My leads were exposed at the entry point into the mold so I can see they are already shot too. That was quite the pick-me-up GM. With that kind of savings I might need to buy a quality soldering iron.

Pusher, If you plan on doing a lot of soldering now and in the future. Invest in a Weller WES51 like this;

wes51.jpg

I cost around a $100 dollars but will solder near about anything you will ever come across. The tips can be changed for different applications and you can buy replacement arts for it as well. It is also a great ESP soldering iron. However, if you are merely doing this one soldering job, go for a simple iron at Radio Shack or something like that. You can find one at Lowes or HD;

weller-12200_sp25nk_DV_WebXL.jpg

It is about $15 dollars and will do the job.

JMHO
 

Pusher

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Probably not worth asking, but this product boasts the same temperature range. Is it not a good product? It's $30 and has 4.5 stars from 372 purchases. I think a good iron would cost close to $100 but have you heard anything on this iron?

Thanks GM820

Aoyue 469 Variable Power 60 Watt Soldering Station
 

Pusher

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I ran across the Hakko FX-888 which is $15 more. And has almost perfect reviews. Any experience with this?
Just trying to get a feel for both ends of the spectrum.
 

gm280

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Pusher, I don't think you could go wrong with either one. The Aoyue 469 Variable Power 60 Watt Soldering Station looks nice. And the fact that it does have a lot of different type tips makes it very versatile as well. But either one would do the job for a long time. I have just used Weller Stations forever and even my career's soldering efforts I used Weller. But that doesn't mean others won't work as well, If you an control the tip to get the job done and it solders well, there isn't much more to want. I would be comfortable with either setup. JMHO
 

Pusher

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Well, I am rather stumped. I couldn't get enough of the hard plastic coating off to get a good idea of what is going on. The yellow wires continued to be brittle the full length into the case (as well as corroded). You have to love how a manufacturer will make something that could last a hundred years, then add a wire that will make it 30. The red, blue, and black wires are still pliable and valid. The yellow ones are just trash.


image_253259.jpg
image_253260.jpg
image_253261.jpg

There's a yellow wire going off in each direction.
The red and blue wires look to be going to the same way which is what's confusing me a bit.
The black ground looks to be going to the round thing in the lower right of the stator. (That would be the ground coming up and soldering to the stator wrap wire before I removed the solder joint.)
The magnet wire itself looks like it is the size of 6lb monofilament fishing line. VERY tiny.... Why so small?

I am hoping to have a plan of action for tomorrow and either repair this sucker (if possible at this point) or start re-wrapping it.Honestly,
I am half tempted to stick the whole thing in a fire and cook the plastic off. If I did that, then I'd order magnet wire and the wells solder tool tomorrow.

Help/advice is appreciated.
 
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