Troubleshooting No power at ignition - Please Help

Anthonym2

Seaman
Joined
Apr 6, 2016
Messages
59
Hello All,



I had my boat out (1980 Beretta, 140 Mercruiser I/O) over the weekend, when It suddenly shut off while running. Somehow I think the bilge pump and blower switches got turned on and were running for about 20 mintues or so before everything shut down. I now have no power at ignition. I checked the battery and charged it overnight - then took it to autozone to have it checked out (They said it was in good shape). I put it back in but to no avail.

From what I have read - I should check the fuse box on the starter solenoid and the 50 amp circuit braker near the front of the engine. Here are my questions.

1. Do you think this is the right course of action?

2. I have read varying amps for the fuse box on the solenoid - 55, 90, and 100. How do I know what to replace with? Can you tell by looking? pic attached

3. The breaker does not seem to "reset" properly and the button just jiggles around a bit and only pushes in a quarter inch or so, is this normal? pic attached

4. Where do I get parts and know I'm getting what I need? (Can you tell I'm a first timer yet?)



I'm thinking that the bilge pump ran until it fried and shorted the system out?

Thanks in advance - let me know if you need any more info!
 

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JASinIL2006

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 10, 2012
Messages
5,543
Does the engine turn over but not catch, or does it not turn over at all? If it's the former, The first thing I would check is to make sure the dead man switch hasnot been tripped.
 

Anthonym2

Seaman
Joined
Apr 6, 2016
Messages
59
JAS,
I should mention that I have no power to Anything, no gauges, horn, blower, bilge, etc
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,513
Ayuh,.... Use a test light or meter to see where ya got Power, 'n where it stops,.....
 

vetting

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Dec 9, 2012
Messages
177
Measure the voltage before and after the red button on the motor - that should tell you if your breaker is shot or not. If it isnt, then look under your dash for a harness with 7 to 8 wires going into a plug. It will look like the top plug in this pic
http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/MAR6118-connectors.jpg

Undo the plug and test the side leading to the motor. Take the volt meter and see if you have 12v on the red to black on the plug. If you do, then that would mean that the issue is further up the line or at that plug. Clean up the connector and plug it back in - at this point check your dash again. Then check where the red wire goes - check the voltage at the next point. Just keep on going down the line to see where you lost the voltage.

I had my dash and ignition go out the other day. Turned out it was just corrosion inside that plug that I just cleaned up with the sandpaper and dielectric grease.
 

Anthonym2

Seaman
Joined
Apr 6, 2016
Messages
59
Thanks guys, really appreciate the help! I started with bondo recommendations and bought a tester, started at the battery and worked towards the circuit. Everything had power.....then reading vettings post I checked under the dash. I first checked some 30. Amp fuses and there was the problem, a blown 30 amp fuse. I replaced and everything is back to normal, plus the bilge pump still works.
Thanks for all the help!
 
Last edited:

mjf55

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 17, 2014
Messages
462
Anthony, replacing the fuse really does not fix anything. I would be concerned as to WHY the fuse blew. What was the fuse for, i.e. what circuit. I would then look at all the wiring in that circuit for corrosion, loose connections, broken insulation, burn marks, etc. Without finding the cause, it may just blow again the next time you are out.
 
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