Amp Connection with Dual Batteries

fort384

Recruit
Joined
Apr 27, 2016
Messages
5
Hi all new to forum - I know there are a lot of topics of discussion out there about this subject here and elsewhere on the web, but I can't find any that definitively describes my exact setup and wanted to get some opinions. It seems there is a lot of conflicting info on installing an amplifier in a boat.

I have a Monterrey 194FS bow rider, and last year I replaced the head unit and all 4 of the factory speakers. This year, I am adding an amplifier and a free air sub to the system.

I also have dual batteries installed in the boat, though it is just a standard switch (1, 2, or both) - no relay to isolate a battery and still charge it. So my normal mode of operation is run about in "both" and then switch to either batt 1 or 2 when floating or anchored for extended periods. I alternate between 1 and 2, so both batteries get somewhat of a work out (right or wrong... that is how it is setup, and they are marine starting batts, I know not ideal, but the system isn't a huge power hog even with the amp I am adding and I don't plan to change out a battery in near future unless I absolutely must).

The amp isn't massive - it is a JL Audio M700 5 channel, (4 channels @ 75W ea, and a 5th sub channel at 180W, all at 4 ohms). I am running 4 AWG power wire and ground from the engine compartment up to where the amp will be installed, under the left hand side counsel.

My question is, where to hook both the power wire, and ground wire for this amp. I will have a signal wire from the head unit to the amp to tell it to turn on when the head unit turns on. But I want to be able to power the amp off of either batt 1 or batt 2 when parked.

I was planning to attach the power wire for the amp to the common positive lead coming out of the battery switch, which should then allow for it to receive power in 1, 2 or both, and still allow for peace of mind that when the switch is in OFF the amp is not going to pull ANY power (even with the signal wire from the head unit as insurance). I will fuse this power lead a few inches from that attach point with a 60 amp fuse. Acceptable? or no?

For the ground, there seems to be a lot of very strong opinions and recommendations on where to hook it. It will be the same size as the power lead (4AWG) and will be run all the way back. Question is, should I hook it direct to a post on 1 of the batteries, or should I hook it to the grounding block that is a foot from the batteries and seems to have about 30 things tied into it. There is a good size cable from the block running back to the negative, I would say at least 2 AWG if not 0. Does it matter? If I go direct to a negative post on a battery, does it matter which 1 I go to (bat 1 or bat 2) keeping in mind that I want to be able to run the amp on bat 1, bat 2, or BOTH?

Would appreciate any advice. Like I said lots of discussion on the internet but cant seem to find good recommendations for exactly where to power and ground with a dual battery (non relay) setup.

thanks!
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,476
You can hook the ground to one of the batteries. What you are doing is all fine. I suggest getting an ACR and then you don't have to do the battery switch game.
 

deafwish

Cadet
Joined
Jul 19, 2012
Messages
22
I'd suggest you connect the power & earth to one battery only & select that battery when anchored.
You'd hate to drain both batteries if you're out for a while.
Oh & when that battery dies, replace it with a deep cycle & keep the other as a dedicated cranking battery.
 

mBurns

Cadet
Joined
Apr 7, 2016
Messages
26
If you haven't already purchased the wire - I'd hold off. 4 gauge wire for an amp is overkill. I ran 8 gauge to my 2000W amp to drive my system. As for the ground issue, I recommend checking behind the driver's dashboard. All those switches on your dash have a common ground you can tap into. You mentioned adding a 60A fuse; I would check the amp first. Just about every amp comes with fuses in it, and they're usually quick-blow fuses, so adding another fuse (while it would be safer) would probably just be a waste of your time. If you're worried about it drawing power from the batteries even when the switch is in off, you could just run the line power through a rocker switch locally at the amp (or put it at the dash).
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,476
The amp fuse protects the amp. It doesn't protect the wire going to the amp. Also, why would you connect a 8 gauge wire to a bus bar that is being fed by a 10 gauge wire.
 

fort384

Recruit
Joined
Apr 27, 2016
Messages
5
If you haven't already purchased the wire - I'd hold off. 4 gauge wire for an amp is overkill. I ran 8 gauge to my 2000W amp to drive my system. As for the ground issue, I recommend checking behind the driver's dashboard. All those switches on your dash have a common ground you can tap into. You mentioned adding a 60A fuse; I would check the amp first. Just about every amp comes with fuses in it, and they're usually quick-blow fuses, so adding another fuse (while it would be safer) would probably just be a waste of your time. If you're worried about it drawing power from the batteries even when the switch is in off, you could just run the line power through a rocker switch locally at the amp (or put it at the dash).

The amp is not fused, the manual specifies a 60 amp fuse a close to the supply as possible. The manual for the amp also specifies, and repeats in bold, that the amp requires 4 AWG wire - I don't mind spending a bit extra to have peace of mind that the amp will not experience voltage drops and have a good clean power supply. I don't think I can ground it at the helm either - looks like everything I have read says that power side and ground side need to have same gauge of wire, and what's running back from the helm isn't close to 4awg.
 

fort384

Recruit
Joined
Apr 27, 2016
Messages
5
I'd suggest you connect the power & earth to one battery only & select that battery when anchored.
You'd hate to drain both batteries if you're out for a while.
Oh & when that battery dies, replace it with a deep cycle & keep the other as a dedicated cranking battery.

This is certainly an option, I will consider it -- Thanks for your input! I guess my thinking was since both batteries are the same (age and type) and there is no ACR, I'd like to keep their workload and lifespan similar... so alternate between running off of batt1 and batt 2 when engine is off. But it would make sense for me to set it up like this with a deep cycle the next time I am due for a battery change. Unfortunately they are both brand new so it will be a few years.

EDIT: Just realized my OP makes it sound as if I am alternating while engine off between batt 1 and batt 2-- that I do not do - I use batt 1 for engine off one day, and batt 2 the next... so I always have a battery in reserve for starting. Just wanted to be clear on that.
 
Last edited:
Top